Trying to post a pic, but not taking.

Buggy is an X5Race with a 2096/41021 Super Smooooth.
Truggy is a X5Lightining with a 9853/41005 Plenty of grunt and still very linear.

X7c will be my next motor.

From your albums or the web?

You can use the image button or just use [img]image url goes here[/img]

From my harddrive. I didn't realize I could store items in my album on here, but I see it now. However, I think my picture file size is too big.

Yes , you may need to use an image resize program. There are a couple free
ones out there just be careful of any malware that comes with em. Once you
store them in your album you can link them here.

When veiwing your photos you will notice 2 boxes at the bottom. You can copy the "picture url code" and use the image button or the url code
or you can copy the bb code box and do a direct copy and paste. I placed a space between the G and last bracket so you could see the code.

[IMG]http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/jsk-albums-tekno-nitro-picture21524-img-0314.jpg[/IMG ]

Without the space it looks like this

Thanks. I appreciate the help.

The new clutch shoe is on the left. The used clutch shoes are in the middle and on the right. Are the used clutch shoes still good? I haven't filled the edges down yet.

Btw, I used IrFanView to resize my photos in batches. You can resize using MSPaint, but it's only one pic at a time.

Bin them.

I'm coming from electric. I probably tend to drive nitro like an electric (use a lot of midrange say 25 to 75 pct throttle). It sounds like experienced nitro drivers are on the throttle pretty hard and brake pretty hard - not a whole lot of midrange throttle. Is that correct? Anyway, what springs would better fit my throttle style? I started with two 1.1 and two 1.0 springs. The clutch sounded like it was slipping and the shoes on the 1.0 wore a lot quicker. I switched to all 1.0. They guys here the pit in sc says it still sounds like the clutch is slipping. I don't know which way to go. Any recommendations?

In fact your driving style is the better, electric guys drive more efficient and get less out of control
with some more running time you will adapt and all will come to right
try 4x 0.9

Gstorm777,
Your flywheel might be slipping. Sounds just like a slipping clutch. Check your flywheel collet. Take a dremel and widen the slot on the collet. Clean everything up with a good degreaser and reinstall.

Good luck...................

Thanks. I did that when Tekno recommended it. I locked the crankshaft and tried to turn the flywheel. Couldn't turn it even with a little pressure using pliers. Should I apply more force with the pliers? Does the collet show anythg when its slipping?

Gstorm777. I would still put a slit in the collet. And yes if the collet is slipping it will be shiny and the flywheel will have a groove in it.

I am using the werks 4 shoe clutch with Serpent bell. and I am finding I have to shim the hell out of it as the clutch is quite a bit longer than the motor output shaft and is also required to mate with the spur.. Now I've shimmed my share of clutches in the past (mugen, Kyosho..etc).. with ZERO issues, but I cannot seem to be able to shim this clutch without blowing up bearings pretty much for sure after every run. My first reaction is: this is a flawed design, and its a huge bummer. But then perhaps im just doing something wrong?


Anyway, at the end of the day what are you guys doing to get reliability here? Are you just running the stock clutch? or some other system thats prooven to work? whats Ryan Lutz using?

Another thing, with the engine in the forward location, my clutch nut literally is about 2 mm from acting as a dremel tool into my fuel tank. This to me is also an epic faileure in design. I pretty much feel forced to run the engine int he rear position just so I dont end up eating through fuel tanks in case of clutch failure. Already ate throuth one today.

Anyway, im pretty frustrated and some of this makes me want to throw this thing on ebay lol. But I'm interested in solutions before doing so: Im all ears.

My question would be why you feel the need to run the werks clutch. The stock one is very similar to a Losi and it works well. I think your problem with clearance between the nut and tank is because of the clutch and bell you are using. Just eying mine up, it looks like about 4mm of clearance. The chassis would have to do some serious flexing for the end of the bell to touch the tank on mine. If I was blowing up bearings that often I would go back to the stock or Losi clutch just for reliability's sake. You can't win if you DNF. I believe Lutz is running his own 3 shoe clutch system.