NEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
Ive made some changes to the justock zero spec release.
I will keep the same foot print as it is small and thats what racers want but we will have a new case design and software so good times ahead .
Anyone needing any help please do not hesitate to contact me .
[email protected]
or
[email protected]
regards Angelo.
ps happy racing guys
I will keep the same foot print as it is small and thats what racers want but we will have a new case design and software so good times ahead .
Anyone needing any help please do not hesitate to contact me .
[email protected]
or
[email protected]
regards Angelo.
ps happy racing guys
Ive made some changes to the justock zero spec release.
I will keep the same foot print as it is small and thats what racers want but we will have a new case design and software so good times ahead .
Anyone needing any help please do not hesitate to contact me .
[email protected]
or
[email protected]
regards Angelo.
ps happy racing guys
I will keep the same foot print as it is small and thats what racers want but we will have a new case design and software so good times ahead .
Anyone needing any help please do not hesitate to contact me .
[email protected]
or
[email protected]
regards Angelo.
ps happy racing guys
So how bout some teasers on this new ESC and app?
Xerun v2.1 120a and 7.5T motor
What firmware are u guys using for a 2wd buggy ? I tried the 930mod and I'm maxed out on boost setting and turbo but is not fast enough as I'm racing on a large track with a 20metres straight .
thanx
What firmware are u guys using for a 2wd buggy ? I tried the 930mod and I'm maxed out on boost setting and turbo but is not fast enough as I'm racing on a large track with a 20metres straight .
thanx
Anyone else have trouble changing wires on hobbywing esc's thst have presoldered motor wires? My soldering iron (48watts) can't even melt the hobbwing solder but can melt 60/40 solde with no problems. Wondering if its my iron or the hobbywing soldee thats at fault, really want to get rid of those colourful wires...
Tech Regular
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 426
48 watts is a little on the low side in my opinion, but the main culprit is probably the lead free solder. Lead free solder has a higher melting point than tin/lead solder. I'm assuming Hobbywing follows Rohs protocol.
Anyone else have trouble changing wires on hobbywing esc's thst have presoldered motor wires? My soldering iron (48watts) can't even melt the hobbwing solder but can melt 60/40 solde with no problems. Wondering if its my iron or the hobbywing soldee thats at fault, really want to get rid of those colourful wires...
The trick is to apply more solder (sometimes quite a bit) .. bend the wires down at an angle, get the iron as hot as it can, hold on the terminal for 1-2 seconds, apply more solder (60/40 rosin core) to help get the existing solder to flow.
For reference - You should be able to get all the wires off in under a minute. If it takes you longer for any one terminal, give the ESC a little time to cool, you will notice it gets hot when applying heat directly to the terminals.
Do not just hold your iron on the terminals expecting it to melt (I believe it's silver based solder).
The trick is to apply more solder (sometimes quite a bit) .. bend the wires down at an angle, get the iron as hot as it can, hold on the terminal for 1-2 seconds, apply more solder (60/40 rosin core) to help get the existing solder to flow.
For reference - You should be able to get all the wires off in under a minute. If it takes you longer for any one terminal, give the ESC a little time to cool, you will notice it gets hot when applying heat directly to the terminals.
The trick is to apply more solder (sometimes quite a bit) .. bend the wires down at an angle, get the iron as hot as it can, hold on the terminal for 1-2 seconds, apply more solder (60/40 rosin core) to help get the existing solder to flow.
For reference - You should be able to get all the wires off in under a minute. If it takes you longer for any one terminal, give the ESC a little time to cool, you will notice it gets hot when applying heat directly to the terminals.
technically.. 6 seconds lol... that is the longest you should need to hold heat. typically its 10-12 though. i find those cheap irons from hardware stores with the fat tips work great for this factory solder. id guestimate them in the 80-100watt range.
get some solderwick and a flux pen too. i know the solder your prob using is flux core, but its much much much MUCH easier and faster and better to use additional flux on both peices your soldering.
funny though. my 2014 3.1 2 cell had all black wires. i just cut them to length and used them, but my single cell escs both came with the multicolored in big ass 12ga. maybe that can be revised for the single cell in the future. the most ive seen run typically in 12th mod is 14ga tqwire. hobbywing wire is a very nice wire. very flexible, nice shielding, but perhaps smaller 14-16ga for the single cell
or just dont apply any wires to the single cell from the factory.. most 12th scale users assemble their cars different and require different wire routing.
get some solderwick and a flux pen too. i know the solder your prob using is flux core, but its much much much MUCH easier and faster and better to use additional flux on both peices your soldering.
funny though. my 2014 3.1 2 cell had all black wires. i just cut them to length and used them, but my single cell escs both came with the multicolored in big ass 12ga. maybe that can be revised for the single cell in the future. the most ive seen run typically in 12th mod is 14ga tqwire. hobbywing wire is a very nice wire. very flexible, nice shielding, but perhaps smaller 14-16ga for the single cell
or just dont apply any wires to the single cell from the factory.. most 12th scale users assemble their cars different and require different wire routing.
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,388
From: Medina, Ohio
One other tip is to cut the wires very short before trying to un-solder them. The wire acts as a heat sink pulling heat from the joint.
A recommendation to Hobby Wing would be to supply the wires but do not solder them on.
A recommendation to Hobby Wing would be to supply the wires but do not solder them on.
The pre-soldered wires are good for 90% of buyers I think. The 10% who need/want to change them probably have the skills to do it without doing any damage. I mean, you've gotta be good to need that extra 0.1s from black wires ;-)



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