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Old 09-22-2014 | 09:37 AM
  #13576  
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thats a really good price at 200.

Honestly I wouldn't run too hog wild with making it a "V2". If the obivious things to see are there (hingepin brace, lightweight outdrives and driveshaft, beefy arms).

And some of the things that come on the EB48.2 have stuff that was just released you may find you want instead like the LRC Toe Block and the new a-arms that have been revised.

for the money if the condition is good, thats a good deal in my opinion.
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Old 09-22-2014 | 10:28 AM
  #13577  
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so i just snapped a shock tower the second time i took the car out, just wondering if any of the other towers(carbon or black anodized) would be a better choice. of course how it happened was a one in a million wreck from being punted form another car off the track but just wondering....thanks
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Old 09-22-2014 | 10:31 AM
  #13578  
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on the cheap, i'd say give the SCT410 towers a try. They are cheap on ebay new, I got a couple for like less than $10 each. I figure not a bad thing to have in the pit box if on the off change you do break one.

I do wonder if the SCT410 towers are more prone to instead of break they would bend?
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Old 09-22-2014 | 10:38 AM
  #13579  
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yea i just bought the tekno because of how durable it is and of course with my luck i break the tower and top of the diff case and bend the screws 90 degrees....pretty odd chance but hey it happens i guess
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Old 09-22-2014 | 10:45 AM
  #13580  
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wow that must have been an epic hit!

Matthew_Armeni: I sent you a pm on rcshortcouse, can you take a look and get back to me when you have a chance?
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Old 09-22-2014 | 01:27 PM
  #13581  
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Must have been a crazy hit. I have my fair share of breaking stuff but the shock towers on my buggy are still straight. What is the difference of the sct towers?
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Old 09-22-2014 | 01:31 PM
  #13582  
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they are not CNC'd, and dno't have that nice little grove to kind of hold the shock mount still. Also probably a bit lighter.

I personally think they probably would bend sooner than the CNC'd ones versus just ripping off.

The advantage of them is that they are cheap on ebay, like $10. You can have a spare in the box for that cost.

Hheck if the shock mounts were long enough you could even stack them for a super tower lol.
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Old 09-22-2014 | 03:22 PM
  #13583  
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Originally Posted by Cain
they are not CNC'd, and dno't have that nice little grove to kind of hold the shock mount still. Also probably a bit lighter.

I personally think they probably would bend sooner than the CNC'd ones versus just ripping off.

The advantage of them is that they are cheap on ebay, like $10. You can have a spare in the box for that cost.

Hheck if the shock mounts were long enough you could even stack them for a super tower lol.
I Can't say for the front but I Bent the rear pretty good on my sct tower.
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Old 09-22-2014 | 05:56 PM
  #13584  
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Eb48 vs EB48.2 is really just option parts included that most put on the EB48 anyway, and some lightweight aluminum balls instead of steel. It is important to have those tuning options if you will use them, such as the lightened center shaft and the +1.5 rear hinge pin holder, but things like springs and the others are something you will adjust for your setup anyway. If the options you need are there, it won't really matter if it is a .2 or an upgraded original. That's part of why these cars hold their value so well, in addition to the durability.
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Old 09-22-2014 | 08:27 PM
  #13585  
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Originally Posted by Highspeedsentry
I was just looking at the Joe Bornhorst setups for the ET and EB. The use of the LRC rear brace is not noted in either setup. I'm just wondering if this is assumed or if he is using the stock brace. Any thoughts?
For that track (McCulloughs) that the setup sheet is for, I personally thought that the stock brace was better.

In the testing that I have done though, I think that the LRC brace is definitely better on big, rough, looser tracks.
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Old 09-22-2014 | 08:30 PM
  #13586  
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Great seeing you run Tekno Joe!
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Old 09-23-2014 | 03:31 PM
  #13587  
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Originally Posted by dpilk08
so i just snapped a shock tower the second time i took the car out, just wondering if any of the other towers(carbon or black anodized) would be a better choice. of course how it happened was a one in a million wreck from being punted form another car off the track but just wondering....thanks
The black anodized towers for the SCT bend very easy. I see a lot of the guys at the track replacing them with the EB towers. That's why they are so much cheaper.
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Old 09-23-2014 | 08:00 PM
  #13588  
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Originally Posted by JoeBornhorst
For that track (McCulloughs) that the setup sheet is for, I personally thought that the stock brace was better.

In the testing that I have done though, I think that the LRC brace is definitely better on big, rough, looser tracks.
Seconded. Track I run on is small for 1:8. Tried the LRC and the rear end was waaaaaaay planted. Switched to the normal 1.5 rear brace and was rotating much better!
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Old 09-28-2014 | 05:16 AM
  #13589  
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Need a little assistance with setup. Normally I run outdoor and take the winter off. This year I am going to race some indoor which is totally new to me.
I raced yesterday at the Ohio RC factory and it is a high grip tight track.
I was running AKA handlebars in soft and using mostly the stock setup. The tires didn't quite feel right so a change may be in order there. Not enough foreword bite. Traction rolling a lot.
I have never ran a track like this so it is throwing me off any help for where to go is appreciated.
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Old 09-28-2014 | 05:16 AM
  #13590  
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Need a little assistance with setup. Normally I run outdoor and take the winter off. This year I am going to race some indoor which is totally new to me.
I raced yesterday at the Ohio RC factory and it is a high grip tight track.
I was running AKA handlebars in soft and using mostly the stock setup. The tires didn't quite feel right so a change may be in order there. Not enough foreword bite. Traction rolling a lot.
I have never ran a track like this so it is throwing me off any help for where to go is appreciated.
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