Tekno RC EB48 Thread
thats a really good price at 200.
Honestly I wouldn't run too hog wild with making it a "V2". If the obivious things to see are there (hingepin brace, lightweight outdrives and driveshaft, beefy arms).
And some of the things that come on the EB48.2 have stuff that was just released you may find you want instead like the LRC Toe Block and the new a-arms that have been revised.
for the money if the condition is good, thats a good deal in my opinion.
Honestly I wouldn't run too hog wild with making it a "V2". If the obivious things to see are there (hingepin brace, lightweight outdrives and driveshaft, beefy arms).
And some of the things that come on the EB48.2 have stuff that was just released you may find you want instead like the LRC Toe Block and the new a-arms that have been revised.
for the money if the condition is good, thats a good deal in my opinion.
so i just snapped a shock tower the second time i took the car out, just wondering if any of the other towers(carbon or black anodized) would be a better choice. of course how it happened was a one in a million wreck from being punted form another car off the track but just wondering....thanks
on the cheap, i'd say give the SCT410 towers a try. They are cheap on ebay new, I got a couple for like less than $10 each. I figure not a bad thing to have in the pit box if on the off change you do break one.
I do wonder if the SCT410 towers are more prone to instead of break they would bend?
I do wonder if the SCT410 towers are more prone to instead of break they would bend?
they are not CNC'd, and dno't have that nice little grove to kind of hold the shock mount still. Also probably a bit lighter.
I personally think they probably would bend sooner than the CNC'd ones versus just ripping off.
The advantage of them is that they are cheap on ebay, like $10. You can have a spare in the box for that cost.
Hheck if the shock mounts were long enough you could even stack them for a super tower lol.
I personally think they probably would bend sooner than the CNC'd ones versus just ripping off.
The advantage of them is that they are cheap on ebay, like $10. You can have a spare in the box for that cost.
Hheck if the shock mounts were long enough you could even stack them for a super tower lol.
they are not CNC'd, and dno't have that nice little grove to kind of hold the shock mount still. Also probably a bit lighter.
I personally think they probably would bend sooner than the CNC'd ones versus just ripping off.
The advantage of them is that they are cheap on ebay, like $10. You can have a spare in the box for that cost.
Hheck if the shock mounts were long enough you could even stack them for a super tower lol.
I personally think they probably would bend sooner than the CNC'd ones versus just ripping off.
The advantage of them is that they are cheap on ebay, like $10. You can have a spare in the box for that cost.
Hheck if the shock mounts were long enough you could even stack them for a super tower lol.
Eb48 vs EB48.2 is really just option parts included that most put on the EB48 anyway, and some lightweight aluminum balls instead of steel. It is important to have those tuning options if you will use them, such as the lightened center shaft and the +1.5 rear hinge pin holder, but things like springs and the others are something you will adjust for your setup anyway. If the options you need are there, it won't really matter if it is a .2 or an upgraded original. That's part of why these cars hold their value so well, in addition to the durability.
Tech Rookie
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 10
In the testing that I have done though, I think that the LRC brace is definitely better on big, rough, looser tracks.
so i just snapped a shock tower the second time i took the car out, just wondering if any of the other towers(carbon or black anodized) would be a better choice. of course how it happened was a one in a million wreck from being punted form another car off the track but just wondering....thanks
Tech Fanatic
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 886
From: Hong Kong
Seconded. Track I run on is small for 1:8. Tried the LRC and the rear end was waaaaaaay planted. Switched to the normal 1.5 rear brace and was rotating much better!
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 654
Need a little assistance with setup. Normally I run outdoor and take the winter off. This year I am going to race some indoor which is totally new to me.
I raced yesterday at the Ohio RC factory and it is a high grip tight track.
I was running AKA handlebars in soft and using mostly the stock setup. The tires didn't quite feel right so a change may be in order there. Not enough foreword bite. Traction rolling a lot.
I have never ran a track like this so it is throwing me off any help for where to go is appreciated.
I raced yesterday at the Ohio RC factory and it is a high grip tight track.
I was running AKA handlebars in soft and using mostly the stock setup. The tires didn't quite feel right so a change may be in order there. Not enough foreword bite. Traction rolling a lot.
I have never ran a track like this so it is throwing me off any help for where to go is appreciated.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 654
Need a little assistance with setup. Normally I run outdoor and take the winter off. This year I am going to race some indoor which is totally new to me.
I raced yesterday at the Ohio RC factory and it is a high grip tight track.
I was running AKA handlebars in soft and using mostly the stock setup. The tires didn't quite feel right so a change may be in order there. Not enough foreword bite. Traction rolling a lot.
I have never ran a track like this so it is throwing me off any help for where to go is appreciated.
I raced yesterday at the Ohio RC factory and it is a high grip tight track.
I was running AKA handlebars in soft and using mostly the stock setup. The tires didn't quite feel right so a change may be in order there. Not enough foreword bite. Traction rolling a lot.
I have never ran a track like this so it is throwing me off any help for where to go is appreciated.



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