Watch "Tekno nb48 @ indy rc world" on YouTube
Tekno nb48 @ indy rc world: http://youtu.be/Usx09Tw-EHgWell after 3 gollons on my nb and countless setup changes im finally comfortable with the buggy. I still think the shock geometry still needs improvement and the buggy would be better without the truggy gearing. Her are a few laps at indy rc world, this is the same layout from the icebreaker race, im running 30.0-30.5sec laps consistently. During the icebreaker race I couldn't get out of 31.5s and my hero laps were 30.9s. Buggy is finally a blast to drive,my fast laps are high 29s...adam drakes fastest lap here was 29.09sec. Finally got the car to run pace.

Tekno nb48 @ indy rc world: http://youtu.be/Usx09Tw-EHg

looks great look forward to seeing you in amains at the big races in pro real soon.

That would be nice, ill see how I do at wolfpack next week and fuel nats at thornhill.

the truggy has a 9 tooth pinion the buggy has a 10. so its not exactly truggy gearing

Was referring to the clutch/spur gear, the buggy just wraps out too fast.

Looks real good!

Nice video. Looks easy to drive. Very consistent. Post a setup when you get a chance, I'm sure everyone would appreciate it.

The internal ratio is 4:1. Most truggies are 4.3:1 or higher. But we compensate with the 15/44 bell/spur gearing. HB and AE use 4.3:1 in the diffs then use something like a 16/48 bell/spur combo (HB for example). Our final is 11.7 which is very close to most other buggies out there. You could try a 16, but you'd probably lose bottom end and burn through clutch shoes.

So you might have a clutch issue if you think it is topping out too fast. There could be some slippage somewhere.

The clutch setup is fine, the car just tries to blow the wheels off when I start to really get on the throttle. Im still running the ninja bo1a motor and its been in several other cars,kyosho, losi, xray and I didnt have to feather the throttle as much when I drove those buggys.im actually going to a 16t or 17t to tame the bottom, but the main thing is I got the car to work even with the nasty punch it has.im running 2 carbons shoes and two dynamite shoes with the losi black/gold combo.ill post my setup in a sec.

current setup, I also moved the front +1 hex's to the rear and using the 0 offset hex's up front. On the sway bars I shortened the bar by sliding it further into the end link to stiffen it up or make it work sooner.the buggy has a ton of roll and I started with 2.3/2.4 and it didnt work too well.if the buggy rotates too much run the rear arm long. I also pluged the holes in the shock caps, if they are vented without compensators it wont pack. Thats a big help if you build the buggy out of the box.

Watch "Icebreaker 2014 @ Indy Rc world Expert Buggy heat…" on YouTube
Icebreaker 2014 @ Indy Rc world Expert Buggy heat…: http://youtu.be/F_BhXXXsid0 here is a qual with me and drake at Icebreaker, im the blue buggy with yellow wheels. I was running 31.5-32.3 sec times to his 29-30.4sec lap times. Qual starts at the 2min mark.

Thanks for the setup and thanks for the info too .

I'm currently running a Nova 4BTT and I couldn't get enough bottom so I went to all 1.0mm springs with 4 7075 Tekno shoes. It's perfect for me now, so if you need to go the other way and tame it, definitely try the 0.9mm all around. If you have enough top end, keep the bell at 15t. A 16t or 17t pushes the whole power transmission system to the outside of the workable range with final drive ratios of 11.0 and 10.35 respectively.

I was running 1.0's all around with 7075's and it was too much. Then went to .9/1.0 longlife shoes and it got better, I ended up with losi steel flywheel .9's with carbon shoes and 1.0's with longlife shoes. Car is manageable now, but I think a 16t will get me where I want to be. The main thing was the car didnt feel balanced, it had too much traction and no steering or steering and no traction. It was hard to find a sweet spot that was responsive with good on power and off power steering and predictable traction.

Cool. Let us know how it goes.

I'm interested in the rear setup... What's the reason for hub pin inside location and for the shock end?