Go-Tech Engines Thread
Suspended
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 22
I'm having trouble to run my go 5 port silver head after resting it for 3 weeks, it will die if WOT or run after few minutes. already changed a new OS p3 plug, have been leaning the LSN and not working, riching HSn also not working. Anyway it will run good with igniter on.*Is it good to tune it to factory setting? plz assist. thanks in advance.
I tried richening but no improvement.
i suspect the conrod the engine stil new with a tone of compression, or carburetor? Plz help
I tried richening but no improvement.
i suspect the conrod the engine stil new with a tone of compression, or carburetor? Plz help
It sounds to me like you are lean on top.
I would reset the HSN and LSN to flush.
Lean the LSN 1/1/4 turns in.
Lean HSN 1/4 turn in.
Check your plug as well , if it has been fouled it may give you grief.
Clean your air filter properly and use a basic oil like castor as your filter oil. The motorbike oil ( blue ) is usually too thick... some of these new air filter oils have some chemical in them that makes engines flame. We don't know what it is yet but when having similar problems we have cleaned the air filter and changed the oil and it made a huge improvement.
Hope this helps.
i did everything i can:
1. reset to flush - still flame out
2. replace with novarossi carb - stil flame out
3. replace new air filter - still flame out
4. replace new glow plug (argus, O.S) - stil flame out.
Note: compression still tight at TDC.
Additional question is can the go 7port P/S/C fit into this silver head 5 port? i plan to replace it.
Thanks in advance
1. reset to flush - still flame out
2. replace with novarossi carb - stil flame out
3. replace new air filter - still flame out
4. replace new glow plug (argus, O.S) - stil flame out.
Note: compression still tight at TDC.
Additional question is can the go 7port P/S/C fit into this silver head 5 port? i plan to replace it.
Thanks in advance
i did everything i can:
1. reset to flush - still flame out
2. replace with novarossi carb - stil flame out
3. replace new air filter - still flame out
4. replace new glow plug (argus, O.S) - stil flame out.
Note: compression still tight at TDC.
Additional question is can the go 7port P/S/C fit into this silver head 5 port? i plan to replace it.
Thanks in advance
1. reset to flush - still flame out
2. replace with novarossi carb - stil flame out
3. replace new air filter - still flame out
4. replace new glow plug (argus, O.S) - stil flame out.
Note: compression still tight at TDC.
Additional question is can the go 7port P/S/C fit into this silver head 5 port? i plan to replace it.
Thanks in advance
Did you set the idle gap? The hsn starting point is flush but probably will need to be turned in from there. When it flames out is it blubbering like there is too much fuel or does it sound like it is running out of fuel?
Rex
Idle gap - .5 and .7 tested but still flame out. Even with 1mm idle gap idling high will still flame out.
It sound rich when flame out, possible air leak or conrod malfunction or burn room glow plug leaking?
It sound rich when flame out, possible air leak or conrod malfunction or burn room glow plug leaking?
Rex
Suspended
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 22
Try looking outside the engine for the fault. It definitely sounds like a loss of fuel or pressure at wot.
had replace the seal, hose and even new tank. I troubleshoot with other engine and it was ok. I wondering would it be the compression is good but the the piston/sleeve is damage. Visually everything is fine. Physically the metal pinch stil noticeable.
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2
From: Sweden
Hi all
I'm pretty new to this and I have tried to find the answers in this forum and tought I did, then I was talking to my vendor and he told me different.
To the question:
which carb to use, I have one 2 needle carb and one 3 needle carb with black anodized throttle slide. I thought I found out here that the carb to use is the 3 needle carb with black throttle slider, but my vendor told me that he got the 2 needle delivered from GO to change out the 3 needle.
The engine is a GO GX2 5RHO
Pls help me out
Regards from Sweden, Johan
I'm pretty new to this and I have tried to find the answers in this forum and tought I did, then I was talking to my vendor and he told me different.
To the question:
which carb to use, I have one 2 needle carb and one 3 needle carb with black anodized throttle slide. I thought I found out here that the carb to use is the 3 needle carb with black throttle slider, but my vendor told me that he got the 2 needle delivered from GO to change out the 3 needle.
The engine is a GO GX2 5RHO
Pls help me out
Regards from Sweden, Johan
Hi all
I'm pretty new to this and I have tried to find the answers in this forum and tought I did, then I was talking to my vendor and he told me different.
To the question:
which carb to use, I have one 2 needle carb and one 3 needle carb with black anodized throttle slide. I thought I found out here that the carb to use is the 3 needle carb with black throttle slider, but my vendor told me that he got the 2 needle delivered from GO to change out the 3 needle.
The engine is a GO GX2 5RHO
Pls help me out
Regards from Sweden, Johan
I'm pretty new to this and I have tried to find the answers in this forum and tought I did, then I was talking to my vendor and he told me different.
To the question:
which carb to use, I have one 2 needle carb and one 3 needle carb with black anodized throttle slide. I thought I found out here that the carb to use is the 3 needle carb with black throttle slider, but my vendor told me that he got the 2 needle delivered from GO to change out the 3 needle.
The engine is a GO GX2 5RHO
Pls help me out
Regards from Sweden, Johan
You can use either carb, but the 3 needle was the production carb for the GXII-5RHO in it's last year of manufacture.
The 3 needle is a good carb.
Don't adjust the 3rd screw from the factory setting , and just treat it like a 2 needle carb for tuning.
The 3rd screw is not actually a needle, but an adjustable fuel tube. It is factory set for the best engine response, so mark it for reference, and just leave it.
You will get better power and response from the 3 needle carb on the 5RHO motor.
Hope that helps.
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2
From: Sweden
Tnx Shane
Hi Johan,
You can use either carb, but the 3 needle was the production carb for the GXII-5RHO in it's last year of manufacture.
The 3 needle is a good carb.
Don't adjust the 3rd screw from the factory setting , and just treat it like a 2 needle carb for tuning.
The 3rd screw is not actually a needle, but an adjustable fuel tube. It is factory set for the best engine response, so mark it for reference, and just leave it.
You will get better power and response from the 3 needle carb on the 5RHO motor.
Hope that helps.
You can use either carb, but the 3 needle was the production carb for the GXII-5RHO in it's last year of manufacture.
The 3 needle is a good carb.
Don't adjust the 3rd screw from the factory setting , and just treat it like a 2 needle carb for tuning.
The 3rd screw is not actually a needle, but an adjustable fuel tube. It is factory set for the best engine response, so mark it for reference, and just leave it.
You will get better power and response from the 3 needle carb on the 5RHO motor.
Hope that helps.



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