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Old 03-21-2014 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
I'm having trouble to run my go 5 port silver head after resting it for 3 weeks, it will die if WOT or run after few minutes. already changed a new OS p3 plug, have been leaning the LSN and not working, riching HSn also not working. Anyway it will run good with igniter on.*Is it good to tune it to factory setting? plz assist. thanks in advance.

I tried richening but no improvement.

i suspect the conrod the engine stil new with a tone of compression, or carburetor? Plz help

It sounds to me like you are lean on top.

I would reset the HSN and LSN to flush.

Lean the LSN 1/1/4 turns in.

Lean HSN 1/4 turn in.

Check your plug as well , if it has been fouled it may give you grief.

Clean your air filter properly and use a basic oil like castor as your filter oil. The motorbike oil ( blue ) is usually too thick... some of these new air filter oils have some chemical in them that makes engines flame. We don't know what it is yet but when having similar problems we have cleaned the air filter and changed the oil and it made a huge improvement.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-23-2014 | 07:24 AM
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i did everything i can:

1. reset to flush - still flame out
2. replace with novarossi carb - stil flame out
3. replace new air filter - still flame out
4. replace new glow plug (argus, O.S) - stil flame out.

Note: compression still tight at TDC.

Additional question is can the go 7port P/S/C fit into this silver head 5 port? i plan to replace it.

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-23-2014 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
i did everything i can:

1. reset to flush - still flame out
2. replace with novarossi carb - stil flame out
3. replace new air filter - still flame out
4. replace new glow plug (argus, O.S) - stil flame out.

Note: compression still tight at TDC.

Additional question is can the go 7port P/S/C fit into this silver head 5 port? i plan to replace it.

Thanks in advance
Yes the 7 port p/s/r will be a direct fit.

Did you set the idle gap? The hsn starting point is flush but probably will need to be turned in from there. When it flames out is it blubbering like there is too much fuel or does it sound like it is running out of fuel?

Rex
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Old 03-23-2014 | 08:52 AM
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Idle gap - .5 and .7 tested but still flame out. Even with 1mm idle gap idling high will still flame out.

It sound rich when flame out, possible air leak or conrod malfunction or burn room glow plug leaking?
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Old 03-23-2014 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
Idle gap - .5 and .7 tested but still flame out. Even with 1mm idle gap idling high will still flame out.

It sound rich when flame out, possible air leak or conrod malfunction or burn room glow plug leaking?
turn hsn in 1/4 turn at a time to see if it helps. Does it flame out at high speed or idle? If the head button was leaking there would be fuel around where it is leaking.

Rex
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Old 03-23-2014 | 10:27 AM
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It will only flame out at high speed (WOT), I'd try everything in my knowledge. I'm planning to get a new p/s/c to troubleshoot
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Old 03-23-2014 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
It will only flame out at high speed (WOT), I'd try everything in my knowledge. I'm planning to get a new p/s/c to troubleshoot
Have you checked your tank seal and pipe seals ? pressure line ? fuel line ? any leak here will cause this symptom and by the sounds of it its happening no matter what you do to the engine.

Try looking outside the engine for the fault. It definitely sounds like a loss of fuel or pressure at wot.
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Old 03-24-2014 | 09:32 PM
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had replace the seal, hose and even new tank. I troubleshoot with other engine and it was ok. I wondering would it be the compression is good but the the piston/sleeve is damage. Visually everything is fine. Physically the metal pinch stil noticeable.
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Old 03-24-2014 | 11:53 PM
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can you post a photo of the damage ?
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Old 03-25-2014 | 05:20 PM
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Are the engine bearings ok?
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Old 03-25-2014 | 06:30 PM
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already dissemble and resemble, found no fault at all, fyi the engine only had quarter gallon and I rested the engine for 3 weeks then the problem occur.
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Old 03-30-2014 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
already dissemble and resemble, found no fault at all, fyi the engine only had quarter gallon and I rested the engine for 3 weeks then the problem occur.
Have you flushed the HSN ?
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Old 04-13-2014 | 02:31 AM
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Default Carb questions

Hi all

I'm pretty new to this and I have tried to find the answers in this forum and tought I did, then I was talking to my vendor and he told me different.

To the question:

which carb to use, I have one 2 needle carb and one 3 needle carb with black anodized throttle slide. I thought I found out here that the carb to use is the 3 needle carb with black throttle slider, but my vendor told me that he got the 2 needle delivered from GO to change out the 3 needle.

The engine is a GO GX2 5RHO

Pls help me out

Regards from Sweden, Johan
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Old 04-13-2014 | 02:49 AM
  #14564  
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Originally Posted by Johan_f
Hi all

I'm pretty new to this and I have tried to find the answers in this forum and tought I did, then I was talking to my vendor and he told me different.

To the question:

which carb to use, I have one 2 needle carb and one 3 needle carb with black anodized throttle slide. I thought I found out here that the carb to use is the 3 needle carb with black throttle slider, but my vendor told me that he got the 2 needle delivered from GO to change out the 3 needle.

The engine is a GO GX2 5RHO

Pls help me out

Regards from Sweden, Johan
Hi Johan,

You can use either carb, but the 3 needle was the production carb for the GXII-5RHO in it's last year of manufacture.
The 3 needle is a good carb.
Don't adjust the 3rd screw from the factory setting , and just treat it like a 2 needle carb for tuning.
The 3rd screw is not actually a needle, but an adjustable fuel tube. It is factory set for the best engine response, so mark it for reference, and just leave it.
You will get better power and response from the 3 needle carb on the 5RHO motor.

Hope that helps.
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Old 04-13-2014 | 03:00 AM
  #14565  
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Tnx Shane

Originally Posted by grizz1
Hi Johan,

You can use either carb, but the 3 needle was the production carb for the GXII-5RHO in it's last year of manufacture.
The 3 needle is a good carb.
Don't adjust the 3rd screw from the factory setting , and just treat it like a 2 needle carb for tuning.
The 3rd screw is not actually a needle, but an adjustable fuel tube. It is factory set for the best engine response, so mark it for reference, and just leave it.
You will get better power and response from the 3 needle carb on the 5RHO motor.

Hope that helps.
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