Tekno NB48
#1036
There are ways to move the bell forward but its prob easiest to just use the kit bell and bearings. Make sure you
degrease the large inner bearing since there is alot of grease in it. Depending on how you shim it you may need to
take a small amount off the back of the bell, See Step R-3 notes in the manual.
Are you new to the BuKu?
#1037
Yes, the flywheel fits fine but a normal bell will not reach far enough forward to properly engage the spur gear.
There are ways to move the bell forward but its prob easiest to just use the kit bell and bearings. Make sure you
degrease the large inner bearing since there is alot of grease in it. Depending on how you shim it you may need to
take a small amount off the back of the bell, See Step R-3 notes in the manual.
Are you new to the BuKu?
There are ways to move the bell forward but its prob easiest to just use the kit bell and bearings. Make sure you
degrease the large inner bearing since there is alot of grease in it. Depending on how you shim it you may need to
take a small amount off the back of the bell, See Step R-3 notes in the manual.
Are you new to the BuKu?
#1038
#1040
The aluminum shoes are alot more forgiving. BuKu's are an great
clutch but they can be a bit overwhelming with all the adjustment if this is
your first nitro. Once you have a good solid tune on your motor and decide
to try the BuKu you will just need to get another Tekno bell.
#1041
you seat the shoes. Other than a 4mm arm reamer and making sure you get ALL
the excess plastic off the shock cartridge parts where they come off the tree
its a pretty easy kit to build.
I would also suggest that you change step T-2 in the manual a bit. Instead of
waiting until then to put the TKR1201 locknut in the steering I would do it back
in step M-2 before you bolt the steering to the chassis. Its a pain to get that
in there when its all assembled.
#1042
Just run the stock clutch. It works fine, just make sure you have someone help
you seat the shoes. Other than a 4mm arm reamer and making sure you get ALL
the excess plastic off the shock cartridge parts where they come off the tree
its a pretty easy kit to build.
I would also suggest that you change step T-2 in the manual a bit. Instead of
waiting until then to put the TKR1201 locknut in the steering I would do it back
in step M-2 before you bolt the steering to the chassis. Its a pain to get that
in there when its all assembled.
you seat the shoes. Other than a 4mm arm reamer and making sure you get ALL
the excess plastic off the shock cartridge parts where they come off the tree
its a pretty easy kit to build.
I would also suggest that you change step T-2 in the manual a bit. Instead of
waiting until then to put the TKR1201 locknut in the steering I would do it back
in step M-2 before you bolt the steering to the chassis. Its a pain to get that
in there when its all assembled.
#1043
#1044

apart from that enjoy the build
#1045
Built yesterday O and P bags (shocks). Found that after placing shock onto the shock tower, installing bushing and securing flanged locknut shock itself doesn't move freely. Its my fault or all that stuff needs to work a little to develop freeplay?
Also i've noticed that bushing between shock cap and standoff is directed (more flat area on one side), but manual doesn't say anything about it. What direction is proper for installing: more flat area to tower or to locknut?
Also i've noticed that bushing between shock cap and standoff is directed (more flat area on one side), but manual doesn't say anything about it. What direction is proper for installing: more flat area to tower or to locknut?
It doesn't matter what direction you put it in. Hope this helps.
#1046
And MIP has some sweet bits. Go slow so you don't strip anything and save your wrists
.
#1047
#1048
I have Dremel Driver, but prefer make 1st build by hands, to feel every thread etc etc =)
For metric screws there is Associated bits set, only five bits for 25 bucks but how useful this kit is: very good 1.5mm bit, and both regular and ball end 2mm and 2.5mm bits. Very tight fit to screws, maybe it won't last as long as Hudy stuff, but for that price it worth every cent.
#1050
Also it's very important to not overheat screws due to fast rotating speed during first threading in.



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