300LikesTeam Associated TC4
12-30-2004, 06:46 AM
#2266
Are you guys having to cut down tie rods to get them short enough to run shorter camber links? If not, what size tie rod are you running to run the shorter links? Thanks.
12-30-2004, 10:37 AM
#2267
my turnbuckles are fine, and i just put 1 degree camber on all round, 0 toe on the front.
and i got tonnes of thread left (well that is in kit roll centre positions)
Dave, you got PM
and i got tonnes of thread left (well that is in kit roll centre positions)
Dave, you got PM
12-30-2004, 11:50 AM
#2268
Originally posted by runnin rc10
Are you guys having to cut down tie rods to get them short enough to run shorter camber links? If not, what size tie rod are you running to run the shorter links? Thanks.
Are you guys having to cut down tie rods to get them short enough to run shorter camber links? If not, what size tie rod are you running to run the shorter links? Thanks.
Later,
12-30-2004, 01:28 PM
#2270
Originally posted by raving-monkey
my turnbuckles are fine, and i just put 1 degree camber on all round, 0 toe on the front.
and i got tonnes of thread left (well that is in kit roll centre positions)
Dave, you got PM
my turnbuckles are fine, and i just put 1 degree camber on all round, 0 toe on the front.
and i got tonnes of thread left (well that is in kit roll centre positions)
Dave, you got PM
-Dave
12-30-2004, 01:42 PM
#2271
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by runnin rc10
Are you guys having to cut down tie rods to get them short enough to run shorter camber links? If not, what size tie rod are you running to run the shorter links? Thanks.
Are you guys having to cut down tie rods to get them short enough to run shorter camber links? If not, what size tie rod are you running to run the shorter links? Thanks.
12-30-2004, 01:43 PM
#2272
Thanks for the setup Dave
will give it a go this sunday and let you know how it goes
will give it a go this sunday and let you know how it goes
12-30-2004, 05:54 PM
#2273
I wanted to experiment with the shorter roll center locations and the tie rods just seem a little too long to get the right amount of camber with the shorter the link. I didnt know if you guys were using a length other than stock, a buddy of mine shaved down some rods, just wondering if there was a way around it.
Last edited by runnin rc10; 12-30-2004 at 07:49 PM.
01-01-2005, 04:54 PM
#2275
Re: BMI TC4 Chassis
Originally posted by protc3
hey guys,i will hopefully be testing it out on asphalt this weekend if i can kick this flu.the car is very stiff.i have had alot of good experiences with my tc3 chassis on asphalt with it being a 3mm chassis and top deck.it was a little more tough to get the car setup but when i got it right it was much faster than when i had it flexing with a 2mm upper deck.i think this tc4 kit is going to be a winner.lets see how carpet testing goes with ray.i will keep you posted on the asphalt testing.
hey guys,i will hopefully be testing it out on asphalt this weekend if i can kick this flu.the car is very stiff.i have had alot of good experiences with my tc3 chassis on asphalt with it being a 3mm chassis and top deck.it was a little more tough to get the car setup but when i got it right it was much faster than when i had it flexing with a 2mm upper deck.i think this tc4 kit is going to be a winner.lets see how carpet testing goes with ray.i will keep you posted on the asphalt testing.
01-01-2005, 05:57 PM
#2276
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Getting practice 1/10 stock onroad
Posts: 670
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
tc4
hey guyz out of the box is the stock composite tc4 with high end electronics overweight or underweight?wat about the tc4 carbon fiber kit with high end electronics, overweight or underweight?any help well appreciated
Steven Alexander
Steven Alexander
01-01-2005, 06:12 PM
#2277
dave,
i will be going out to the track tommorow moring and testing until the evening.i will post the results tommorow night.everything so far is going very well.i did a little farting around locally today and i think all will go very well.i will keep you posted buddy
i will be going out to the track tommorow moring and testing until the evening.i will post the results tommorow night.everything so far is going very well.i did a little farting around locally today and i think all will go very well.i will keep you posted buddy
01-01-2005, 06:29 PM
#2278
Outdrive alternatives
I seem to be a little too tough on my stock plastic outdrives... I wreck, and they seem to get weakened and then my cvd bones will chronically pop out until I replace 'em.
I'm racing stock... so weight is a factor... what are the next-lightest, but more durable outdrives available?
IRS has aluminum ones... AE has lightened steel... anyone know how heavy these are and which are better?
thanks,
bob
I'm racing stock... so weight is a factor... what are the next-lightest, but more durable outdrives available?
IRS has aluminum ones... AE has lightened steel... anyone know how heavy these are and which are better?
thanks,
bob
01-01-2005, 06:39 PM
#2279
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Getting practice 1/10 stock onroad
Posts: 670
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
tc4
hey man u race at mikes?i use to race there everyweek,very good store/track.lol every1 over there runs xray still?how many tc3s/tc4s?
01-01-2005, 07:02 PM
#2280
Caster block revelation
Anyone ever notice how you can easily insert the small hinge pin into the stock castor blocks... but it's very difficult to insert the pin into the 4 degree blocks?
Well... since I assumed this part should be free-moving... i had gotten into the habit with my TC3 and TC4 of filing out the hinge pin hole on the castor block to make the pin move more easily.
However, I noticed that i had a bunch of slop in my TC4 front suspension... so i took a new 4 degree block a new polished hinge pin and just pushed the pin in really hard.... and it went in.
Despite this tight fit, the block still swings quite freely since the pin is rotating in the steering arm rather than in the caster block.
Anyway, thought I'd share... even though the pins are a hassle to get in and out.... some of my slop is gone.
Well... since I assumed this part should be free-moving... i had gotten into the habit with my TC3 and TC4 of filing out the hinge pin hole on the castor block to make the pin move more easily.
However, I noticed that i had a bunch of slop in my TC4 front suspension... so i took a new 4 degree block a new polished hinge pin and just pushed the pin in really hard.... and it went in.
Despite this tight fit, the block still swings quite freely since the pin is rotating in the steering arm rather than in the caster block.
Anyway, thought I'd share... even though the pins are a hassle to get in and out.... some of my slop is gone.