57LikesThe Speed Passion Thread
12-10-2013 | 07:46 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
Open the Reventon interface on your computer, connect with your ESC and LCD card, when the interface started, hit "S" that will go to the safe mode....then if the computer asked to connect to ESC, hit "NO"....then it should get to the back door of the ESC connection and on the left you should be able to load the software that you want...
12-10-2013 | 08:14 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
I have been reading this thread and have not been able to find a good explaination of the settings on a Reventon R ESC.
I race 21.5t boosted on a track that has a 60mtr (180ft) straight.
I don't seem to be able to find a setup that works on this esc.
I have in the past used hobbywing 2.1 and I cannot relate the speed passions esc settings to that of the hobbywing.
Can someone point in the direction of a thread or something that explains clearly what the hybrib boost 150k relates to and the % hybrid boost relates to. It is a percentage of what? And the DDRS is that the same as the boost per X amount of rpm?
On a hobbywing you add an amount of boost, an amount of turbo and choose when and how quickly it is introduced. The speed passions doesnt seem to work this way.
I race 21.5t boosted on a track that has a 60mtr (180ft) straight.
I don't seem to be able to find a setup that works on this esc.
I have in the past used hobbywing 2.1 and I cannot relate the speed passions esc settings to that of the hobbywing.
Can someone point in the direction of a thread or something that explains clearly what the hybrib boost 150k relates to and the % hybrid boost relates to. It is a percentage of what? And the DDRS is that the same as the boost per X amount of rpm?
On a hobbywing you add an amount of boost, an amount of turbo and choose when and how quickly it is introduced. The speed passions doesnt seem to work this way.
Can you list your 21.5 setup here first and tell me what is lacking or missing on your setup...? One thing I have to point out is...Reventon R is a 70A ESC, comparing that to 120A or higher ESC for the same amount of performance is just not right.
Also your gearing, and your motor timing setting...(physical timing on your motor).
Hybrid Boost Active = the dynamic ramp timing adding thru out the whole throttle range.....we are not using Timing in degrees because they are not accurate and never was accurate. So we are using % instead of show the amount of timing in 10% increment....if it must be using in degrees, use 30* max and divided by 10 for each 10% increment...
Hybrid Boost Maximum = Turbo/boost. k = 1000...and it is refer to the RPM. The higher it is, the more timing adding after the WOT.
12-10-2013 | 08:16 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
Some of them use it...I don't. I don't see the different and I worry about after updating the MM interface to the LCD card it won't allow you to go back to the SP version.
12-10-2013 | 08:22 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
Rock crawler.....CRAWL ROCK
Stock 0 = BLINKY (ROAR)
Stock 1 = BOOST/TURBO/Supercharger
Mod0 = mainly used for off road, has REVERSE function.
Mod1 = same as mod0 with higher top speed, without reverse function, mainly used for the organized race.
Mod2 = best used for off road racing event...has best punch and brake power. No reverse.
12-10-2013 | 08:37 AM
Drift.....DRIFT
Rock crawler.....CRAWL ROCK
Stock 0 = BLINKY (ROAR)
Stock 1 = BOOST/TURBO/Supercharger
Mod0 = mainly used for off road, has REVERSE function.
Mod1 = same as mod0 with higher top speed, without reverse function, mainly used for the organized race.
Mod2 = best used for off road racing event...has best punch and brake power. No reverse.
Rock crawler.....CRAWL ROCK
Stock 0 = BLINKY (ROAR)
Stock 1 = BOOST/TURBO/Supercharger
Mod0 = mainly used for off road, has REVERSE function.
Mod1 = same as mod0 with higher top speed, without reverse function, mainly used for the organized race.
Mod2 = best used for off road racing event...has best punch and brake power. No reverse.
Any thoughts on making a Mac version of the software?
12-10-2013 | 11:08 AM
I have a GT 2.0 ESC and am having trouble stopping the wheels fast enough when I hit the brakes.
What I'm looking to do is to stop the wheels fast enough to flick the car downwards in the air over a jump. Right now, I'm at maximum brake and the wheels slow down in 2-3 tenths of a second, but they don't stop cold like my Reventon or other brands of ESCs would do. Those brakes were so hard that you can dive the nose down in the air just by hitting the brakes. My GT 2.0 doesn't work that way - the brakes are way too soft.
I've tried all types of settings in the ESC and on my radio. Any thoughts? Does anyone else have this issue?
What I'm looking to do is to stop the wheels fast enough to flick the car downwards in the air over a jump. Right now, I'm at maximum brake and the wheels slow down in 2-3 tenths of a second, but they don't stop cold like my Reventon or other brands of ESCs would do. Those brakes were so hard that you can dive the nose down in the air just by hitting the brakes. My GT 2.0 doesn't work that way - the brakes are way too soft.
I've tried all types of settings in the ESC and on my radio. Any thoughts? Does anyone else have this issue?
12-10-2013 | 12:57 PM
I have a GT 2.0 ESC and am having trouble stopping the wheels fast enough when I hit the brakes.
What I'm looking to do is to stop the wheels fast enough to flick the car downwards in the air over a jump. Right now, I'm at maximum brake and the wheels slow down in 2-3 tenths of a second, but they don't stop cold like my Reventon or other brands of ESCs would do. Those brakes were so hard that you can dive the nose down in the air just by hitting the brakes. My GT 2.0 doesn't work that way - the brakes are way too soft.
I've tried all types of settings in the ESC and on my radio. Any thoughts? Does anyone else have this issue?
What I'm looking to do is to stop the wheels fast enough to flick the car downwards in the air over a jump. Right now, I'm at maximum brake and the wheels slow down in 2-3 tenths of a second, but they don't stop cold like my Reventon or other brands of ESCs would do. Those brakes were so hard that you can dive the nose down in the air just by hitting the brakes. My GT 2.0 doesn't work that way - the brakes are way too soft.
I've tried all types of settings in the ESC and on my radio. Any thoughts? Does anyone else have this issue?
I have found that when I run a lot of boost on certain motors, the initial hit of the brakes are quite weak. It's fine in the infield but very weak at the end of the straight. Perhaps a delay due to the hi boost settings? My Tekin used to do that too.
12-10-2013 | 01:43 PM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 84
It is because we are not HobbyWing....
Can you list your 21.5 setup here first and tell me what is lacking or missing on your setup...? One thing I have to point out is...Reventon R is a 70A ESC, comparing that to 120A or higher ESC for the same amount of performance is just not right.
Also your gearing, and your motor timing setting...(physical timing on your motor).
Hybrid Boost Active = the dynamic ramp timing adding thru out the whole throttle range.....we are not using Timing in degrees because they are not accurate and never was accurate. So we are using % instead of show the amount of timing in 10% increment....if it must be using in degrees, use 30* max and divided by 10 for each 10% increment...
Hybrid Boost Maximum = Turbo/boost. k = 1000...and it is refer to the RPM. The higher it is, the more timing adding after the WOT.
Can you list your 21.5 setup here first and tell me what is lacking or missing on your setup...? One thing I have to point out is...Reventon R is a 70A ESC, comparing that to 120A or higher ESC for the same amount of performance is just not right.
Also your gearing, and your motor timing setting...(physical timing on your motor).
Hybrid Boost Active = the dynamic ramp timing adding thru out the whole throttle range.....we are not using Timing in degrees because they are not accurate and never was accurate. So we are using % instead of show the amount of timing in 10% increment....if it must be using in degrees, use 30* max and divided by 10 for each 10% increment...
Hybrid Boost Maximum = Turbo/boost. k = 1000...and it is refer to the RPM. The higher it is, the more timing adding after the WOT.
I am using a hobbywing Extreme stock 60A esc and a hobbywing XERUN 21.5 (no end bell timing).
The last big event i ran the below settings to finish 5th in the A-Main.
using the extreme stock esc.
No end bell timing
boost 50 (0.6 * 50 = 30 degrees)
Turbo 14 (0.6 * 14 = 8 degrees)
Start rpm 3000, increasing every 300 rpm
Turbo delay 0.1
FDR 5.44
99 degrees F day, motor temp 180 degrees F (outer case) after 6mins
I would like to achieve something similar using the Reventon, I like the SP esc's, they are way smoother than the Hobbywing, but I am struggling to balance speed and heat with the SP reventon esc.
So if hybrid boost active is a % of 30 degrees, that make sense.
But if the rpm on a 21.5t boosted motor is 24-30K then how is the hybrid boost of 150K related?