2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
11-18-2013 | 03:03 PM
#9902
Funny thing is where I have ran the vehicle has range from tight outdoor track to big tracks, loose conditions, like dustbowl loose.
Where in CT are you running this? used to run at Manchester Hobbies when it was open and then Wolcott Hobbies for a bit.
That setup that is on there may:
- Be setup for that particular drivers preferences
- Be setup for conditions you don't run on exactly
Just some thoughts.
Where in CT are you running this? used to run at Manchester Hobbies when it was open and then Wolcott Hobbies for a bit.
That setup that is on there may:
- Be setup for that particular drivers preferences
- Be setup for conditions you don't run on exactly
Just some thoughts.
11-18-2013 | 06:37 PM
#9903
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 653
From: Gilberts, IL.
You are so right brother and your words and definitely wise. But I already received the car all tuned in and dialed toe, camber, oils and I adjusted ride height as needed for the surface. So with that being said, I was still very un impressed and highly doubt that anymore changes could make it night and day. The thing is the set up changes could go on all day, but the car platform and dynamics are what they are no matter what. This is why I wont drive a car that feels like a 10 scale- only on tight indoor track. But I only run on bigger outdoor tracks or street. I highly credit Tekno and they are HUGE for RC and I know the guys on here can offer so much help. Everyone is much appreciated. Without them, my rcing wouldnt exist. I gotta say the truggy looks to be a boat load of fun
11-18-2013 | 07:56 PM
#9904
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,298
From: Raleigh, North Carolina
Based on running your off road race buggy on the street...
Not a good way to judge a vehicle if you ask me.
That would be akin to me complaining that my TC car is too loose in the dirt.
You need to spend a few weekends racing it on the dirt and working on setups the light will come on I guarantee it.
And aluminum parts on the knuckles and hubs IMHO are a crutch for an inferior plastic design. I will take a light unsprung weight part such as the tekno plastic hubs and carriers anytime over more aluminum unsprung weight in my suspension.
Not a good way to judge a vehicle if you ask me.
That would be akin to me complaining that my TC car is too loose in the dirt.
You need to spend a few weekends racing it on the dirt and working on setups the light will come on I guarantee it.
And aluminum parts on the knuckles and hubs IMHO are a crutch for an inferior plastic design. I will take a light unsprung weight part such as the tekno plastic hubs and carriers anytime over more aluminum unsprung weight in my suspension.
11-18-2013 | 08:17 PM
#9905
A few more pics of the ftw body:
On another note, i do feel after running this car for a whole season, it is a little more nimble than what i would like. I've made quite a few changes from stock and it's a lot more stable, but at times it feels quite aggressive. I really think the main factor is the battery i'm running. It's pretty light @ 436 grams. I'll upgrade to the eb48.2 next season, but i think it might be better due to the heavier smc ~5200's i'll be running. Any thoughts before next year on how to make a car more stable/easier to drive?
On another note, i do feel after running this car for a whole season, it is a little more nimble than what i would like. I've made quite a few changes from stock and it's a lot more stable, but at times it feels quite aggressive. I really think the main factor is the battery i'm running. It's pretty light @ 436 grams. I'll upgrade to the eb48.2 next season, but i think it might be better due to the heavier smc ~5200's i'll be running. Any thoughts before next year on how to make a car more stable/easier to drive?
11-18-2013 | 11:47 PM
#9907
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 205
Hi guys
I need some help with building the shocks on eb48.2
Now I have tried all methods suggested on threads and instructions manual and I still can't match my 2 front shocks in terms of rebound amount one shock comes out slowly and a few mm. The other comes out faster and has double the rebound of the other
2) Also on both shocks when I pull out shafts to the max extension they like to pull themselves in a little like the reverse affect of rebound is this normal
Any help and ideas would be great these shock are driving me nuts
I need some help with building the shocks on eb48.2
Now I have tried all methods suggested on threads and instructions manual and I still can't match my 2 front shocks in terms of rebound amount one shock comes out slowly and a few mm. The other comes out faster and has double the rebound of the other
2) Also on both shocks when I pull out shafts to the max extension they like to pull themselves in a little like the reverse affect of rebound is this normal
Any help and ideas would be great these shock are driving me nuts
11-19-2013 | 03:15 AM
#9908
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 410
From: North East Ohio
Very happy with the car after our provincial final RC Pro series race. These are a few notes that hopefully some can find helpful:
6) Removing the o-ring under the shock cap eliminated the leaking issue. Additionally I found building the shocks like I do my MP9 shocks provided consistent rebound and no air. I dislike the technique of placing the bladder on the shock body and then shock cap. It reminds me of building TC shocks which I hate!
These are the steps I followed:
- Place bladder in shock cap (they will stay put after initial use as they will have expanded slightly).
- Fill shock body nearly to the top and pump up and down.
- Place in shock pump to remove remaining air bubbles (allowing shocks to sit alone will never rid the shock oil of all air bubbles).
- Top off shock oil until flush with top of body.
- Screw on shock cap while shock shaft extended. Do this slowly and stop when oil starts to come out of the bleeder hole.
- Slowly push the shock shaft all the way into the shock body while wiping away oil that leaks out of the bleeder hole with a shop towel.
- While holding the shock shaft all the way in the shock body, slowly screw the shock cap on until it bottoms out (no tools necessary to do this if you remove the o-ring)
- If the above is done correctly you should have close to zero rebound. If you want less rebound only push the shock shaft in the desired amount and hold in place while screwing on the shock cap.
The above steps work well for me and the key is to perform all steps slowly in order to achieve zero rebound. Also making sure the shock is upright while performing the steps is key.
-Kane
6) Removing the o-ring under the shock cap eliminated the leaking issue. Additionally I found building the shocks like I do my MP9 shocks provided consistent rebound and no air. I dislike the technique of placing the bladder on the shock body and then shock cap. It reminds me of building TC shocks which I hate!
These are the steps I followed:- Place bladder in shock cap (they will stay put after initial use as they will have expanded slightly).
- Fill shock body nearly to the top and pump up and down.
- Place in shock pump to remove remaining air bubbles (allowing shocks to sit alone will never rid the shock oil of all air bubbles).
- Top off shock oil until flush with top of body.
- Screw on shock cap while shock shaft extended. Do this slowly and stop when oil starts to come out of the bleeder hole.
- Slowly push the shock shaft all the way into the shock body while wiping away oil that leaks out of the bleeder hole with a shop towel.
- While holding the shock shaft all the way in the shock body, slowly screw the shock cap on until it bottoms out (no tools necessary to do this if you remove the o-ring)
- If the above is done correctly you should have close to zero rebound. If you want less rebound only push the shock shaft in the desired amount and hold in place while screwing on the shock cap.
The above steps work well for me and the key is to perform all steps slowly in order to achieve zero rebound. Also making sure the shock is upright while performing the steps is key.
-Kane
11-19-2013 | 03:32 AM
#9909
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 205
Just wondering if end rods where longer more internal thread for shaft to screw into this May prevent nut hitting bladder!
Also what if the bladder had more contact surface were it touches top inside of shock cap to seal better!
What if shock bladder was a little thicker to seal better !
What if shock shafts need to be trimmed a little with how much thread extends above nut were piston is mounted In order to prevent bladder being hit when assembling
A few things I a have been thinking about during my build
11-19-2013 | 05:08 AM
#9910
On another note, i do feel after running this car for a whole season, it is a little more nimble than what i would like. I've made quite a few changes from stock and it's a lot more stable, but at times it feels quite aggressive. I really think the main factor is the battery i'm running. It's pretty light @ 436 grams. I'll upgrade to the eb48.2 next season, but i think it might be better due to the heavier smc ~5200's i'll be running. Any thoughts before next year on how to make a car more stable/easier to drive?
11-19-2013 | 10:23 AM
#9911
On another note, i do feel after running this car for a whole season, it is a little more nimble than what i would like. I've made quite a few changes from stock and it's a lot more stable, but at times it feels quite aggressive. I really think the main factor is the battery i'm running. It's pretty light @ 436 grams. I'll upgrade to the eb48.2 next season, but i think it might be better due to the heavier smc ~5200's i'll be running. Any thoughts before next year on how to make a car more stable/easier to drive?
11-19-2013 | 10:46 AM
#9914
The 4s I'm running is about 385-390grams (13.5oz) and the setup I have posted works great with my light weight 4s. I'm looking at getting a heavier 4s, but the buggy is so nibble with the lighter one in it, especially outdoors I can clear some of the bigger triples and quads easier.
No, but i will next year with the eb48.2.
11-19-2013 | 11:12 AM
#9915
