Hi Randy, thanks for the response.

I am definitely hitting the apply settings and waiting for it to confirm. I do this after each change and everything appears to stay while I am in it. I even unplug and go back in to make sure it is saved. I know how it must look but I really have spent a considerable amount of time trying to figure this out.

I now save the setup so I can just load it instead of redoing it every time it does this.

Like I mentioned, I verified my 8ight was on 4s VC and plugged the hotwire in and it said reading settings and it came up as 2s and all of the defaults. i then unplugged the hotwire and checked the esc and sure enough it had reset to 2s.

I cannot really say that I can find the pattern as to when this happens. Is there a sequence I am overlooking like plug the hotwire in first then open up the software vs having it open then plugging the hotwire into the car?

Being a "noob" there is a post delay but I do have another question.

I recall it was mentioned somewhere but cannot find it. If I set Cl to 70 and have my Spektrum Dx3r ar 100 throttle I end up getting 86% on the throttle data log. This is even after doing the sequence of setting end points on the esc. I found that I need to put the throttle up to 119% on my spektrum for it to read 100% on the data log.

Is the active Current Limit ( 70 in this case) ever displayed in the log?

What you're seeing isn't the total throttle so much as it's the set point where you radio calibrated. We must accommodate various radio systems and some are higher and lower than others.

OK, Should I turn it back down to 100 and redo the end point sequence? Is my radio being at 120 giving me a type of " expo". I am familiar with programming stand alone units for turbo cars and having the proper tps reading is important.

Btw I have a post that is waiting to be approved in response to the losing settings issue I have. Yes I was applying setting each time and verifying.

Try calibrating with your end points maxed out. Also your dual rates need to be at 100 also. You could have your throttle and brake endpoints at 100 but your throttle dual rate (hot button) at 86 and your brake dual rate at 50 and that's all you will get out of it.
You need to take all expo out (zero) also when you calibrate.

Once calibrated you can go back to what you want for expo and dual rates on your radio after the ESC has seen and calibrated.

Think of it in terms of resolution. Calibrating at 100/100 is giving you 750 steps of throttle, 250 steps in brake.

Calibrating at 150/150 would give you 1000 steps of throttle, 500 in brake.

Both will work just fine.

I tend to calibrate at 100/100 simply so I can speak in terms of percentages.

I guess I have the worst luck with these ESC's. Got one back from Tekin where they replaced the wires on mine. Ran a battery thru it with no issues. Put a second battery later in the day for the first qualifier and hit it down the straight and it just completely shut off and went full speed into a wall.

Also a buddy of mine had 2 of them do full meltdowns in his truggy and buggy. Also a motor fried.

Wire them up properly, hotwire them with proper settings, put batteries in them and use them. Me and these other people shouldn't have these issues.

I'd put good money on the fact you don't have these issues and that you are FOS.

No one person can have the repeated problems you are having without either doing it willfully or making it up.

I did a 6 hour enduro race Oct 6th ( teams of 4, each driver must drive 1.5 hrs )

The team I was on was 1 of 3 teams running Ebuggy, the other 11 teams were nitro.

We ran a 1st Gen RX8 ( used for at least one season ) and a newer ( 4 race old) T8 1900Kv motor.

The track was a mud bog for the first 1 - 1 1/2 due to tons of rain the days leading up to the race. The motor was temping in the low 200s* due to the extra weight etc. We did not have one single hiccup with the Tekin system the whole 6 hrs. We placed 5th overall and 1st for Ebuggy.

I know one of the other teams was using a Tekin system too. They finished as well.

For the record. I don't use Tekin products as I am sponsored by someone else. I have in the past though and have had great results.

Troll status confirmed.

Here
http://www.scrapbook.com/
http://scrapbooking.com/

Whats up Fellow caster driver! Unfortunately he's not making it up and isn't intentionally doing any of this he race same places as me and I've seen a lot of this first hand.

"I guess I have the worst luck with these ESC's. Got one back from Tekin where they replaced the wires on mine. Ran a battery thru it with no issues. Put a second battery later in the day for the first qualifier and hit it down the straight and it just completely shut off and went full speed into a wall."


Classic Brown Out. Get an external BEC

Can someone recommend safe gearing for my losi 8t e with a t8 4038 1700kv on 5s? I have a 50t and 45t spur in my parts box

Cheers

LOL. Guess you could have Randy Pike lookup my name for the warranties. At that point you could then eat your words. Oh and congrats on the 5th and 1st place.

Jamie James, I heard how you drive and you should take up needlepoint.

Www.needlepoint.com

Unfortunately he is not trolling. I race with him as well. Over the last 3 weeks I have seen 4 of the gen 2 rx8's fry. Two of them not being Mullet1s. I don't feel he is responsible for any of the issues, he has the hobby shop install, solder and setup the esc.

I once tried running the novak active8 ESC and had 3 stop working on me the first day out on the track and it was clearly not my fault. I have never had such bad luck with any speed control in my life. Is it possible there is a durability issue with the gen 2 or maybe a bad batch of them, I think so. If some of you guys want to think he is making stuff up you are wrong....

+1, my first thought as well

Gen2 with brownout issues? I don't think so.