I disagree. Hobbico product support and service is top notch. I have had good luck with all trakpower batteries...2s...and 4s 1/8th scale packs.

Does anyone have a Offroad 2wd setup? for RC10B4.2

Im running a Reedy Sonic 7.5t 20* timing and a LRP X20 7.5t 27.5* timing.

Petitrc.com under setup sheets

looking for some help. currently running 32.5 f and 30 with 1.6 flat pistons, going to try the avid 1.5x 1.1 all the way around and then i have 3x1.4 tapered. as far as pack goes which has the most pack and which would you say has the least? thanks Im just trying to figure out what i should be expecting.

Ae taper piston suggestion

front
1.4 x 3 tapered , 35W

Use tapered piston if you need a more reactive car..


Flat piston make for a smoother car ...

Rear
1.6 x 2 tapered 32.5W

Have you tried going up .5 on the weights? My car is pretty good with the flat 1.6 all the way around, running 35/32.5.

Just got my B4.2 RTR kit in the mail last week. May as well not be a B4.2 as it's missing all the good stuff, obviously. All it has is the hexes, but I plan to build it up as I go along. A new clay track is opening in town, and I wanted something cheap to run on weekends.

Question... I've owned an RC8B FT, SC10 4x4 FT, RC8.2e FT, and a regular SC10 4x4. Those all had metric hardware, and this B4.2 has all SAE (standard) hardware. I've never come across this in Associated's line. Is this common in kits vs. RTR? This is my first AE RTR, so I guess that would make sense.

Cheers.

All of AE's 1/10 off-road kits (aside from the SC10 4x4 and Prolite ) are SAE.

I had a quick question on running the shaved U-Brace and the C hubs. I am just trying to get a better understanding of how it actually effects roll center. I have read multiple threads about roll center and have a basic understanding. My question is though by shaving the u brace you are lowering the ball stud which in turn raises the roll center and by running the C hubs which have a little lower mounting holes you are lowering the roll center. Because when you lower the ball stud on the brace it raises the roll center and if you lower it on the hub it does the opposite and lowers it. Right? So Wouldn't that cancel out? If you are raising the roll center on the U brace and lowering it on the hub? Also, does changing camber link length have any effect on the roll center or does it just change camber rise? Sorry for the multiple questions and thanks for any help.

I just got this car together not too long ago and started with Hartsons set up, so I have'nt really needed to do much. I always wondered about the whole "pack" thing and I feel like my car is a tad slow in response so i thought id try a different shock package and see what the hell.

C4.2 UPDATE. I did some shorty lipo testing today vs saddle pack. This is my 3rd and 4th batteries ran thru the car so my driving is more getting a feel for the new configuration. Track was pretty good from the Halloween race the night before, pretty Blue Groove but dusty in spots. Guy in the green buggy got 1st in novice during the Halloween race.

Shorty lipo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WsP...e_gdata_player

Saddle packs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coJJ...e_gdata_player

I guess I'll stay in the C4.2 thread from here on out, I had a good 3 weeks with the B4.2 rear motor but this C4.2 has got my attention now. It's a pretty awesome setup that performs really well. See ya there lol!

WHAT SPRINGS ARE YOU RUNNING ????

What does going to the 30 degree caster blocks do?

More caster = less aggressive steering, and more high speed stability.