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I have been having this issue with my SC10 4WD that it constantly noses up over jumps. I did some research and found this (The light weight and rear bias makes for floaty nose high flight characteristics over large jumps)
Is there anyway to combat this, and keep the truck lvl over jumps?

few things;

- what is your exact setup
- for the body you are using, is it trimmed at all, if so, any trimming done on the front of the body? (pics help)
- What is your normal jumping method (do you stay on throttle through the jump, let off in air, etc)

From there page...there was one left...snagged it..now there are none

Real people or "imaginary little friends"?

You referring to float from outdoor & wind ?

When I was running mine on an outdoor 1/8 scale track even the slightest breeze would cause the front to float, often all the way over. Check out the new Proline EVO sc body. Has a love it or hate it look, but seems to be designed to help with this type of situation.

I am running stock setup
I have the Associated prolite body, no cuts
I usually let off in the air. I tried braking to lvl it out but it endos hard.

Do you recommend a particular setup? shock springs, oil etc?
I was looking at a few of the flow jconcepts bodys, dont know if they are anygood for my issue.
It could be parachuting effect, but we have a set of small doubles right after coming out of a corner, so even at slower speeds it noses up bad.

Put 1-2oz of lead sticky weights around your servo, it makes the truck jump and handle so much better.

I use 32.5 wt. shock oil in the front and 30 wt. shock oil in the rear 1.6 pistons and yellow springs all around.

10-4 on the weight on the sides of servo...

Been using 1 1/2oz on each side myself ....

I have some general questions regarding the center diff. Trying to make sure I have it set up correctly. What temps should I expect to see under track conditions on a low/medium traction surface and a high traction surface? Can it handle full pulls on asphalt? At what point is it getting too hot? Don't want to melt the spur. Does the spur "float" somewhat freely on the balls, even when the spring is completely compressed?

Never checked temps on the diff (I ran it enclosed) but I never melted a spur so its not an issue.
It can handle anything you throw at it.
It does have some float, that's normal.
The spring should be the newer HD spring and it should be tightened down just to where the spring coils touch. It needs to be tight but not completely cranked down with a gorilla fist.

If you want more diff action front to rear, less pins. If you want a more locked in equal balance of power, more pins.
Less pins on a loses track, more pins on a high bite track.

hey guys awesome! thanks for the tips.

Thanks fq. Just doing some pulls in the street to make sure everything is functioning correctly. I'm overpowered with an HD 4300 and VTX8 so don't want to get to the track and burn it down.

One more question. On the bench with the back tires on the table, how much effort should be required to pull on the belt and "activate" the diff? Seems like mine doesn't require much. I have the Factory Team spring compressed fully. I know its kind of a subjective question, but again just trying to understand normal conditions.

If the rear tires are on the table and the front is in the air it will send all of the power to the front with barely any throttle. The rear will still try to spin, but if you don't let it, the diff will send the power where it can.

It would be like having the right tire on the table and the left in the air with a 1/10 ball diff buggy, it will take very little throttle to see the left tire spin.

With that motor I would limit current a little, not sure what they call the setting on the viper but you have tree stump pulling torque with that motor. I would limit it a little no matter what truck I was putting it in.