Vented is when there is air above the bladder that can escape through the small vent hole on top.

Standard is when you only have the side bleed hole (also running the bladder).

For standard or vented setup, you will want to use the side bleeder hole for easier more consistent assembly.

Emulsion is when you have no bladder and use the larger bleeder hole on top.

It was 4, forgot to mention that I removed the extra and i'm at 2 all around last weekend as well.

Can't remember the sways off the top of my head, but think they are the sramos setup.

I have the small vent hole on top, should I do the side as well?

**Missed all the other right answers for some reason, but here is another one**

There are 3 holes on the cap.

1) The small hole at the very top where the standoff passes through.
2) The emulsion hole that takes a screw and a o-ring after drilling
3) The bleeder hole on the side of the cap.

To build a non vented shock you need to drill #3 only and user a bladder.

To build a vented shock you need to drill #1 & #3 and use a bladder.

To build an emulsion shock you need to drill #2 no bladder required.

You can drill all three and still build vented. You can drill 2 and 3 and still build non vented and emulsion. Once you drill #1 you've got a vented only shock cap.

You can always use the screw and orings in the vent hole with a bladder build. I would suggest drilling both to build bladder vented and then play around with it at the track. Put all 4 screws in for non vented & drive a pack then pull them out to try vented.
Maybe vent the rear but not the front to give the front a little more rebound or vice versa. Only takes a minute to try different combos.

But like you said (started with Yarr!), the small holes should be drilled for bladder so you can just fill, cap about one turn, push the shaft all the way in and screw the cap down while holding the shaft in for an easy zero rebound bladder build.

Now all we need is a Tekno branded pit hauler bag to haul these amazing vehicles in...Any possibilities of that happening Tekno?

I'm no seasoned pro, but will share my thoughts:
Between heats during qualifying outdoors I mainly pay attention to changing track conditions and match tire choice. Biggest difference is when it gets late in the evening I change to a smaller and closer together pins or clay tires when the dust starts to stick to the track better, during the day depends on when they last blew it off or wet it, then how many races after the last track prep etc. and switch between big lugs and small lugs depending on how dusty or chunky it is.

I don't change much otherwise unless I simply can't race as is or if I know exactly what to change and what it will do. If TQ is based on best run and not an average I may make a change later on to shoot for TQ if I already have a good run under my belt.

Thanks for the replies about the vented cap. It's nice there are options but the manual could do a little better at defining each hole.

I built my kit emulsion and ran that for about a month. With the AE green springs front and rear, stock pistons and weight it handled great. The only problem I had was bottoming out too easy on bigger jumps. Based on set ups I had seen for outdoor I went to a standard build with 500 cst front and 350 cst (stock) rear. This fixed the bottoming out but on the small to medium fairly bumpy outdoor track I didn't like it at all. It felt too "bouncy" and didn't soak up the bumps like emulsion.

Thinking a vented build would be to remove the bleeder screws I tried that. Much better! I would say almost the perfect balance between emulsion and standard. However I did have a little leaking out of the vent hole. As I now understand this is not how you are supposed to run a vented setup I wonder how much difference in performance I would get from drilling the top hole, side hole and putting the bleeder screws back in?

I think long term I will like emulsion better so I don't want to drill the top and sides only to have to replace / fill if I go back to emulsion. Cain did you ever try sealing the side hole as you posted a few pages back?

No, or you could do it that way but recommended is for vented bladder you drill the hole in the top center of the cap. You could drill out the side too it helps a little but more of a help when doing standard bladder to get the air out and bleed.
To do the shocks emulsion (without bladder and with o-ring) you drill the top cap where the screw goes in.

I have a question about un-gluing tires. I've gotten my clay tires off the rims using acetone vapors (not soaking), but there is still a lot of residue on the tire that I can't get off. How would you guys suggest getting the extra CA off the bead? I can't peel it off, and I don't want to soak the tire and mess up the clay rubber.

I would get a drimmel out and scuff the tires up and that should make them stick to the rims again with CA.

I just changed to emulsion build and I liked it better indoor. I put a drop of ca in the small side holes just cuz with the caps on. Unscrewed once the ca dried and built emulsion.

I think the ca is unneeded though as the path of least resistance will be the large emulsion hole on the top will be where the fluid goes and a couple tuns and the small side hole is on the threads.

Anyone ever try gorilla glue on tires? CA is better when they are fresh and clean, but I wonder if it would work better when it's rough and needs big gaps filled. Can use thicker CA but it is still very brittle and can snap when in big clumps.

Satellite city CA debonder. This will do a couple sets.
You will be left with zero residue on the tires and it does not affect the tires on any negative way.
PM me for the best way to use if you go this route.
http://www.caglue.com/US-1-bSuper-So...glue_p_35.html

That stuff gets strange and airy, it may even push the bead up once it starts setting. I would stick with CA. Thin if anything to seep in and contact what it can get to.