Right, that's how I read it, says they are Version 2 of the rear hub design.

yeah, you can get to the c hub height. My only issue is that I dislike alum ball mounts. Even with Ti studs, you will break a stud off in those hubs if you crash hard enough. you want the stud to be long enough that is hangs out the bottom a little, but does not rub the cva obviously. So that is a stud breaks, you can pull it out the bottom.

+1 I have seen a few guys throw away there 40.00 hubs after breaking a ball stud off and failing to sucessfully drill and tap the hole.

Will have the Vision stiffener's & their new precision shock bushings soon .
Will let everyone know how they both perform for me ...

Might be a good idea to slot the bottom of the ballstud before installing them, so you could use a flathead to remove the broken bottom half. Then again, if you are running the very outside hole, not sure how you would get to the bottom of the stud because the hinge pin is in the way. Hmmm...

I like the vertical stud mounting for sure. I've been having problems with my stud/nuts coming loose on my AVID towers lately, and not sure if it's a problem with the studs/nuts or the towers flexing too much. But, not so sure I want to jump on the current offerings of vertical stud hubs.

mine were coming loose too. I replaced them with a full sized 4-40 steel nut and put lock tite on. been good for a couple months now.

Anytime I put vertical ball studs in, I use my dremel and cut a nice sized nitch in the botom on the threads so that in the event I break a ballstud, I can use a flat tip to pull the remaining piece out.

I always do that, I jusg posted the same thing before I saw your post.

Wouldn't just be easier to just stick with the Ae hub and never have to worry bout stripped ball stud's ruining a $$$ rear hub ?

I was going to purchase the Yaiba hub, until I saw this new Exotek hub in the thread.

I was going to consider running the .40 long TiNi ballstud, but it doesn't have the short neck (so it would be essentially like running A hub). http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...all-Stud-Set-2

I'll have to stick with the stock black stud for C Hub height.

Has anyone tried the new Avid Tungsten thrust bearing?

I was considering getting the TLR tungsten diff balls to go with it.

Or stick with the AE stuff and worry about the ball studs coming loose on the carbon towers...

Both setups have their drawbacks....

For those with the Yaiba or Exotek hubs, how are the bearing tolerances? One thing I can't stand with the AE hub is how loose the bearings are. Getting a little tired of taping the outer and thread locking the inner just to keep them from moving around.

Who me worry ?

Not ......


Have fun grinding that slot and ruining the threads on the stud ..
Maybe the stud will not cross thread for you when installing or maybe not..

Your $$$....

I just installed the Yaiba and the bearing tolerances are AMAZINGLY perfect. You couldn't get the fit to be any tighter and have the bearings go in but at the same time there is no play. With that you would need near perfect alignment of the bearings and they have that too.

The Yaiba are a very high quality product...my only beef with them is that I wish they were tapped for a hinge pin set screw and I hate the red ano with the other parts on the car being blue. I'm not buying all of the Yaiba parts to have matching red.