Cain

iTrader: (294)

When running before I had my droop screws in the rear naturally was higher than it needed to be. So when adding the screws the hieght has dropped a decent portion in the rear. What do you guys do then to lower ride height?

ASM

iTrader: (30)

Use the spring collars to adjust ride height. Using the threaded shock bodies is the easiest way to go.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

ok, I will give that a shot as far as ride height is concerned. Does seem though you can really go too low in the front so I guess that must be what all the hoop la was about as far as shorter threaded front shocks. No matter, I need less steering in the front to prevent traction roll. I have the rear droop screws in and set to what the manual specifies as a starting point and I can notice the difference. I am going to run my setup at first with no front droop screws to see how the vehicle handles and go from there setup wise. I may also leave the 41T pulley in initially as I don't want to make too many setup changes beforehand so I can tell what affects what.

As for the nerf wings these are definitely not super race legal the way they are ran out here but they do protect the back hubs. people here also trim them so they are race legal at times.

I will try the hex adapters to widen the car to the legal 190 limit, do I need to do anything else orther than use the longer hexes? to me it seems that I may not have enough thread to grip the axle.

I do recommend the BRP bumper, it sure saved me my last race as I did hit the wall head on twice from side hits and a glitch caused by someone on the my frequency.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

one more stupid question. When using the droop gauge do you run it length wise along the chassis or do you run it across. I read losi's manual but I am little confused on how to use it since they save to remove your tires and check it that way.

Thanks again for the help guys. I am starting to get a grasp on setting things up.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

You go sideways to the chassis. The droop gauge numbers go under the rear carrier, while the flat part is where the chassis sits. If i can find an image of setting droop in a minute, ill try and post it.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

(http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articl.../untweak/2.jpg)

The only difference is the losi is a single piece droop guage, where as the Hudy has 2 blocks for the car to sit on, and a seperate guage.

-Troy

Team R

RCCadet, I was having the same problem with some of my ballcups backing out. A friend of mine suggested putting some Shoe Goo on the tip of the ballcup. I have not ran my car since I did it. I'm running this weekend, and I will let you know how it works.

ZER01

Your car will be more unstable with a larger body on it. More air will be able to get inside especially around the cutouts for the wheels. A body is suppose to keep the air from entering the car. Tip: when cutting out your wheel wells on a new body, try to cut them as small as you can(that is if your track allows it) but not so small that the wells will hang on a tire when hit.


You want rear downforce?
Try the Pro-line GT40 or the Ferrari 2000 360 Modena

doorman

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone found the need for any spacers under the ballends of the steering pivot arms for bump steer on the XXX-S?
It seems to be a popular thing to do on a TC3.
I was wondering if you need to level the steering links?

Thanks,
Tracy

OBY

to be honest i've tried reading the last 3 pages but got lost looking at it all through the arguing.

it all boils down to this sydewynder....

i had exactly the same problem as you, breaking both front and rear hubs from light taps with a wall, its not driver error its a poor part.

i had my losi up for sale because of this, luckily i didnt sell it!

i put the aluminium blocks on as i posted, and my troubles are gone.

TQ and A main win at my club every week (when its dry), cant be bad, and no my club isnt that easy...

they haven't bent, haven't broken...and i'm rewarded with an excellent reliable race winning car.

Team R

I have a few question for you fellow racer--

1. What are the steps that you take to setup your car? Do you do Droop, Ride Height and than Camber or some other way. Or dose it matter at all.

2. What are the size (or strength ) of the 4 different wires that come in the Losi Sway Bar set .

3. When running a low ride height, say 4mm. Should you stay a way from the Losi 1 inch springs. When I set up my car this way, I find that when the car suspension is at its max (while sitting on a work stand), you can move the spring up and down on the shock. Not that it would be doing that while the car is sitting on the track, but can it have an affect on the car during a race.

4. In almost every picture I see of a Losi XXX-S car. I see that they have the wires running from the ESC going through the gear cover and to the battery. The only reason I can come up with, is so that the wires stay away from the antenna wire. Is there another purpose for doing this.

Thanx for any input sent my way

Cain

iTrader: (294)

which brand of aluminum blocks are you using?

Nitro_Crash

I am also Micro_Freak. As you know I just got the car. I am getting the aluminum blocks. RC Tech is getting them soon cuz I called Horizon Hobbies and they just received a new shipment. I also got the BRP wide bumper for it. So come on get the stuff and run again man we miss ya.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

1. I do it in this order: Ride height first, camber second, tweak third, then droop last. Changing ride height can affect the camber, so get the ride height done first. Changing ride height and camber can affect tweak, so get them both out of the way first. Droop shouldn't affect ride height, camber or tweak, so I save it for last.

2. No idea, I've never run swaybars on the Losi.

3. THe only time I've used the short springs (purples and blacks) is on carpet. All I do on carpet is once the ride height camber and tweak are set I run the droop screws in to just take out any play in the spring. It's worked great for me so far. On asphalt with the longer springs I don't set droop this way.

4. I think it looks cooler than having the wires go over the top.

Trips

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Hi Guys,

We got a couple of titanium screw kits for the XXX-S in stock from Titanium Racing. These will significantly reduce the weight of your XXX-S, also used by many top Losi drivers.

Thanks

Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com