2LikesLosi XXX-S
06-07-2002, 09:49 AM
#2911
swaybay tips?
I just put the swaybars on last night and they don't seem to work very well...or at all. I tried the stiffest sway bar and nothing. Supposedly, if you raise one arm, the other should raise also right? Well, it's not happening and I think it's related to the swaybar mounts. Anyone have any ideas, tips, tricks?
06-07-2002, 10:01 AM
#2912
Tech Regular
rod_b- I agree that the Losi sway bars are not the best in the world. With that said you need to pay extra attention to a few things. First is you need to use the correct size clip for the bar you are using. Second do not over tighten the screw that goes through the clip. Third the clips need to be straight with the bar. Basicly this is all to make sure that the bar is secured to the bulkhead but is not bound up, if the bar is free to rotate it should work correctly.
Chad
Chad
Last edited by ChadK; 06-07-2002 at 10:06 AM.
06-07-2002, 01:24 PM
#2913
When I had my tc3 I went out on the track without bars on and I could see the chassis roll. I then went back to the bench and put them on. When I did this and ran the car I could see a noticeable difference in the lack of body roll. This is just from my experience but I had a tc3 back then.
06-09-2002, 03:43 PM
#2914
Hey All. Got done with my second race and i did much better this time around thanks to help of the veteran guys. I finished 2nd in the Main (Really third but the leader's car broke).
As far as the traction roll problem I had here is what I have done so far to get rid of a lot of it:
1) added droop screws all around (still need to adjust this setting)
2) Harder front spring. I was running losi's black spring but I was still flipping too much. went to associated's 40lb spring and it cleared that up a WHOLE LOT.
3) 30 weight oil in the rear. That helped keep the rear planted as before when running 80 weight with silver springs the rear seemed to want to drift all over the place.
When running my vehicle was sure footed as far as drifting around in the rear but I still would traction roll some so I couldnt carry as much corner speed as the fast guy with the TC3. I am thinking of going with double purple tires up front and keep my purple in the rear. I would however like to avoid this if possible if I can play with my spring and shock oil settings as it is cheaper in than getting new meats. Any ideas. this is what I am running:
1) Purple foams all around
2) droop: (need to get specifics on this but the front is slighter higher than the rear)
3) 30 weight silver springs in the rear
4) 80 weight white (40lb Associated) springs in the front
5) battery position to the rear
6) front shock mounted 2nd hole from the inner most point
7) rear shock mounted 2nd hole from inner most point on the shock tower, farthest hole fron inner most point on the rear A-arms.
8) 41t pulley in the rear, 42t up front.
I just need to dial out alittle more steering from the set up so my car will drift alittle more instead of traction rolling. Let me know your ideas, I am going to check losi's setup but any advice you have let me know.
I am willing to go double purples or some other compound up front, just need to know what will be hard enough compound yet still give good traction.
Thanks beforehand!!!
As far as the traction roll problem I had here is what I have done so far to get rid of a lot of it:
1) added droop screws all around (still need to adjust this setting)
2) Harder front spring. I was running losi's black spring but I was still flipping too much. went to associated's 40lb spring and it cleared that up a WHOLE LOT.
3) 30 weight oil in the rear. That helped keep the rear planted as before when running 80 weight with silver springs the rear seemed to want to drift all over the place.
When running my vehicle was sure footed as far as drifting around in the rear but I still would traction roll some so I couldnt carry as much corner speed as the fast guy with the TC3. I am thinking of going with double purple tires up front and keep my purple in the rear. I would however like to avoid this if possible if I can play with my spring and shock oil settings as it is cheaper in than getting new meats. Any ideas. this is what I am running:
1) Purple foams all around
2) droop: (need to get specifics on this but the front is slighter higher than the rear)
3) 30 weight silver springs in the rear
4) 80 weight white (40lb Associated) springs in the front
5) battery position to the rear
6) front shock mounted 2nd hole from the inner most point
7) rear shock mounted 2nd hole from inner most point on the shock tower, farthest hole fron inner most point on the rear A-arms.
8) 41t pulley in the rear, 42t up front.
I just need to dial out alittle more steering from the set up so my car will drift alittle more instead of traction rolling. Let me know your ideas, I am going to check losi's setup but any advice you have let me know.
I am willing to go double purples or some other compound up front, just need to know what will be hard enough compound yet still give good traction.
Thanks beforehand!!!
06-09-2002, 08:16 PM
#2915
jaco or trc plaid
06-09-2002, 08:38 PM
#2916
Tech Adept
Re: Not sure !!!
Originally posted by Team R
I have a few question for you fellow racer--
1. What are the steps that you take to setup your car? Do you do Droop, Ride Height and than Camber or some other way. Or dose it matter at all.
2. What are the size (or strength ) of the 4 different wires that come in the Losi Sway Bar set .
3. When running a low ride height, say 4mm. Should you stay a way from the Losi 1 inch springs. When I set up my car this way, I find that when the car suspension is at its max (while sitting on a work stand), you can move the spring up and down on the shock. Not that it would be doing that while the car is sitting on the track, but can it have an affect on the car during a race.
4. In almost every picture I see of a Losi XXX-S car. I see that they have the wires running from the ESC going through the gear cover and to the battery. The only reason I can come up with, is so that the wires stay away from the antenna wire. Is there another purpose for doing this.
Thanx for any input sent my way
I have a few question for you fellow racer--
1. What are the steps that you take to setup your car? Do you do Droop, Ride Height and than Camber or some other way. Or dose it matter at all.
2. What are the size (or strength ) of the 4 different wires that come in the Losi Sway Bar set .
3. When running a low ride height, say 4mm. Should you stay a way from the Losi 1 inch springs. When I set up my car this way, I find that when the car suspension is at its max (while sitting on a work stand), you can move the spring up and down on the shock. Not that it would be doing that while the car is sitting on the track, but can it have an affect on the car during a race.
4. In almost every picture I see of a Losi XXX-S car. I see that they have the wires running from the ESC going through the gear cover and to the battery. The only reason I can come up with, is so that the wires stay away from the antenna wire. Is there another purpose for doing this.
Thanx for any input sent my way
4.) Running the positive ESC lead through the gear cover reduces the length of the wire required for the positive connector on the battery pack (assuming the positive connector is in the rear of the chassis).
YJ
06-10-2002, 09:54 AM
#2917
This of the subject>
But how often do you guys reset your speedos?
But how often do you guys reset your speedos?
06-10-2002, 09:59 AM
#2918
Cain
You might also try standing the front shocks up one position at a time and see if that helps. That gives you some fine adjustment in between spring rates. Standing them up makes the suspension stiffer and laying them down makes it softer. Just keep at it and you'll find the right setup. When I get a new car, it usually takes me 3 or 4 races to get it just right.
You might also try standing the front shocks up one position at a time and see if that helps. That gives you some fine adjustment in between spring rates. Standing them up makes the suspension stiffer and laying them down makes it softer. Just keep at it and you'll find the right setup. When I get a new car, it usually takes me 3 or 4 races to get it just right.
06-10-2002, 11:23 AM
#2920
the plastic chassis will flex more, better for lower traction surfaces, graphite is better for carpet or foam tires.
does anyone make a Ti screw kit for the xxx-s? how about stainless steel? thanks
does anyone make a Ti screw kit for the xxx-s? how about stainless steel? thanks
06-10-2002, 01:05 PM
#2923
Tech Addict
will losi ever come out with a xxx-s kinwald edition or something like that? I know its coming but when....Imight then buy a losi touring car agian
06-10-2002, 03:45 PM
#2924
I have looked into the manual and currently I am also running zero degrees of kickup all around. If I want to dial out more steering, should I switch to 2 degrees up front?
As for standing the shocks up, when I read the manual on doing this for the front end it says that when you do this you actually increase traction to the front end and steering. By increasing traction to the front will it cause more traction roll?
Any ideas fellas other than getting plaids?
Also, has anyone used the speed tech hopups?
Finally, Anyone with experience with the Hitec HFX speed control?
As for standing the shocks up, when I read the manual on doing this for the front end it says that when you do this you actually increase traction to the front end and steering. By increasing traction to the front will it cause more traction roll?
Any ideas fellas other than getting plaids?
Also, has anyone used the speed tech hopups?
Finally, Anyone with experience with the Hitec HFX speed control?
06-10-2002, 07:34 PM
#2925
ok guys, I made some changes:
1) Switched to 42T pulleys all around in the diffs (man I love this much better than the SW!!) I think this change may help as from what I understand when you have the 41T in you have more intial turn in steer hence I think more chance to flip.
2) Moved my front shock to the inner most position .
3) installed the 2 degree kickup to get rid of some of the front bite.
I am going to try and run this setup Wednesday and see how it goes.
1) Switched to 42T pulleys all around in the diffs (man I love this much better than the SW!!) I think this change may help as from what I understand when you have the 41T in you have more intial turn in steer hence I think more chance to flip.
2) Moved my front shock to the inner most position .
3) installed the 2 degree kickup to get rid of some of the front bite.
I am going to try and run this setup Wednesday and see how it goes.