Mal

Cain,

I think the droop screws will help you with the traction rolling. If you're going to run the same compound all the way around, run less droop than what is listed on the setup sheets.

Another thing you may want to try is less front kick up and more caster. Less kick up will keep the car from diving too much going into a turn. The caster will calm the car down and make it more predictable.

Other things to try: Change shock weight oil, change pistions, move the front shocks outward, front sway bar, lengthen the front camber links.

Mal

Cain,

regarding your pulleys .... If you over drive the rear diff you will get more on power stearing and less steering going into a turn. Over driving the front will yield opposite results. In my opinion, pulley setups should be used as last resort (I and most people usually stick with the stock 42 all the way around).

Jared Kirkwood

Cain, I think you are generally to soft. I run purple foams all around on the carpet and even with the black springs all around the car seemed to roll around alot and was a general handful. Other people may have good setups for carpet and foams around a softer setup but I've yet to make it work. May I suggest you try this setup from the losi site?

http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpe...ray_carpet.jpg

psycho

Cain

I missed the fact that you are running foams. I don't run foams on my electric sedans, but in nitro, you cut them down to reduce side bite and traction rolling, so I would assume the same would work on electric sedan. If you have access to a tire truer, you might try cutting your tires down to 62.5mm or using your overdrive pulley and only cut down the front tires. You'll need to do some number crunching to get the diameters right if you do the overdrive trick. I'd stick with the 42T pulleys and cut the front and rear tires the same diameter to keep things simple. While you're at it, make sure you bevel the edges well. That also helps reduce tire side bite. Keep in mind that tires are the most course adjustment you can make to the car, so you usually want to change tires to get close to the traction you want and adjust the suspension to make finer changes. You are trying to do the opposite, so it makes things a bit more difficult. Rather than trying a bunch of guesswork, try asking the fast XXX-S drivers at your track what tires they run and see if many guys are running the same tires. That would be where I'd start. Someone earlier suggested running plaid up front, so it might be worth picking up a pair and trying them. That should only be around $20. I'd chat with the fast XXX-S drivers at your track first, though before buying tires since the price adds up to have many compounds available in your pit box.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

This topic took a turn for the worse. I'll check back in on this thread in a couple of days. I'm staying out of this one. Sorry I couldn't have been more help

ChadK

STILNLST is going to stay clear of a heated discusion, he must be turning over a new leaf.

Chad

Mal- Thanks.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks for all the advice. I am going to start slow and make changes one at a time if possible. the first thing I am going to do is change back to the 42tooth pulley and add the droop screws. I will probably run some laps setup like that and see how that helps as I wasn' traction rolling very much with the setup as it was and maybe the droop screws will do the trick. I am looking into running either softer rears or stiffer fronts. Probably magentas or double purples. Thanks for the advice!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I may also move to the sportsman class instead of the pro spec, its a difference of a chameleon versus the street spec motor and cheaper batts. I did pretty good though in the pro spec class, even suprised some of the regulars as well as myself so its a tough call.

As for kickup, I am running 0 degree pivots all around, is that about as low as you can get with the stock parts or is there some trick I am missing?

As for droop, what is ment by having more droop versus less droop? is more droop having the screws tightened up more? If so should I run more droop in the rear (hence lowering the rear) and less in the front?

Thanks!

Doug Gaut

STLNLST, thanks for the setup. It worked well this weekend. TQ'd stock class and qualified 2nd in mod. I appreciate your help!!

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

porsche, sydewinder....one thing i thought of while i was reading all the interesting posts, is your body mounted correctly.....if it is not centered,. you will have a tire sticking out of one side, that you could "catch "on the boards......check that out....

the tamyia tank comment was a joke....ppl need a sence of humor....lets just relax.....

cain, on the foam setup, i would try a setup from losis web site....start there, and tweek from there, but i agree, the rear droop screws will help.....also, check the ride hight.....

yokomojo

Mr. Losi:

Are any of the XXX-S parts interchangeable with the Tamiya tank?

Or vice versa?

Hey, I thought the Tamiya joke was pretty funny stuff.

Thanks,

Joe

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

joe...i think the c hubs are.

yokomojo

LOL. You funny!

Just make sure you don't put 'em on backwards. Gotta' make sure there's plenty of anti-dive.

acloco

I run the TC3 front hubs and hub carriers on my XXX-S.......with NO breakage........

ausracer

i have not had the car for long but on my second weekend racing i broke a front hub. what i did was get some far lower profile wheel nuts and then cut down the axle with my dremel so it was flush with the new nuts. then the next time i got new tires i picked up these ride spoked wheels. i looked around the shop at all there wheels and the spokes on these stuck out alot so there was no wheel nut sticking out past the wheel. i did this because i think that the wheel nut sticks out too far and so can then get caught when you just brush the wall.

also i think that mr losi bought up a very good point about the body, check what he said and also when you need a new body try and find one that is maybe a bit wider at the wheel wells.