Try to loosen the the tranny case screws 1 one quarter turn

What motor? Does it make the clicking with motor in it?

now that I am thinking about it. How did you assemble your cva's? set screw and the clip? some people had some issues doing both and it caused a noise and a slight binding I think.

Ok so I'm setting up a new to me B4.2 and have a question about chassis weighting. For this build I'm putting the ESC in the tray as I didn't like how things were going together using a shelf with the RX in the tray. Obviously I'm running a shorty pack and I did the mod where you use a rear toe block to make a hard stop for the battery (yea I get it, it isn't ROAR legal). So the RX will be on the right side of the chassis with my PT and the ESC power switch and the only thing on the left side of the chassis are the capacitors from the ESC (Viper VTX10 BE). The PT is 5g, the RX is 8g and I don't know the switch or the caps. I am using the AVID motor centering kit.

So the question is: should I add weight on the left side of the chassis to offset the RX, PT and switch?

Leave it as is unless you're going to put it on a scale and corner balance it.

The weight of the wires going to the endbell will probably make the left side heavier than the right anyway.

He's right. I have the avid kit and I needed almost 60g on the the right to balance it. I would never have guessed unless I corner weighted it. I was so surprised that I swapped the scale around to make sure they weren't messed up.

You needed 60g before or after the avid parts? The motor centering kit right?

Wait you needed 60g on the right with the motor centering kit and centered electronics? My ESC is supposed to be 58g without wires so I could see it if your ESC was on the left side but....

If the ball diff adjustment screw isn't tight enough you might get some clicking. I know on the 22 it sounds awful and is pretty loud, but it usually means you need to torque the thrust screw down a bit more which quiets it right down.

*No additional weight needed ...(just use the team ballast , 7gram on each side of rear chassis )
*Install TP on top of servo
*Could of just use a foam block to protect the ESC , no screw holes to drill, ect like you used to mount the extra toe block ...



BIG WILL

Spin gear box with the motor removed first ..
If you still hear a click ?

Switch gear box case as yours could be warped and the diff gear is rubbing .

Yea but I already drilled the chassis and dremeled the toe block to allow the ESC to be a tad more forward (allow room for wiring behind). It was the 2.5 deg toe block anyway...I never use it.

What's the point of this mod? When the Esc is stuck down with tape with a block of foam in front of it, every thing has been fine in mine no movement. ?

I don't know...I saw it earlier in the thread and thought it was cool so I did it. Plus it gives a mechanical barrier so that there is no force on the ESC possible (other than Gs during crashes) so no worry about the battery pushing the foam back into the ESC and pushing the ESC off of the tape.

my esc got knocked loose. I like that method personally, but my esc is on the shelf

Personally use little dab of shoe glue , no way my ESC can ever come loose ...