Center dif will solve most of your problem.
But until then most of your issues are coming from the front being too aggressive. raise the inside camber links to around 6mm, add toe in and go zero on your camber. if you are running the FT ackerman bar position it towards the rear, The RCshox ackbar will allow even further adjustment. use yellow front springs, yellow sway bar . and softest rear sway bar in the rear. basically just follow my setup on the RCShox thread since those are the conditions i mainly run in. run the front shocks all the way in on the tower and out on the arm, all the way out on the rear tower and inside on the arm, this will let the rear follow the front if that makes any sense!, it will also numb front steering.In the end the Cdif is going to be your best upgrade.

WC, man you really should just do some simple reading of the HUDY guide, you will learn alot and also quit giving bad information......AGAIN

According to HUDY:

REAR ARM, INNER HOLE
• Better for bumps and jumps
• Less side bite
• More exit traction
REAR TOWER OUTER HOLE
• Less mid corner grip
• More traction into corner
• Squares up better on exit

Please post your full setup as well as mods you are using.

A nice upgrade in general to gain rear traction is the M2C Rear toe in block at 3.5 degrees. That combined with the Center diff planted my Sc10 4x4. I could literally pitch it sideways and control it on the very loose fluffy dry dirt here and finally give the SCTE fast driver a run for its money on those conditions.

As for camber links on the rear, I found personally that to get more traction I ran the inner ball stud position on the tower lower. When I was traction rolling on carpet, I raised this link up, similar to the level that the +8mm mod does on the tower. I think from my experiences with the +8mm mod, the outer position on the hub seemed to give me more traction, while the inner position on the tower took it way, at least, that is what I saw. When I lowered the tower position when I was testing the mod, I gained traction with each mm drop on the tower. Its worth trying.

Eventually, I just took it off as I felt the M2C rear toe block gave me what I needed and I didn't have to mess with risers for the mod anymore.

RC Shox 2 stage pistons really helped as well on the bumpy stuff. Care felt more planted for sure.

Sorry if my setup was confusing. Lets try this, Stock setup with 8mm mod. This is what I'm back to after trying a handful of things yesterday. I'm seeing a slight improvement in overall rear traction but still not nearly enough. I think what I really am looking for is a lot of corner EXIT traction, longer on power sweepers too, that is when the truck is really getting loose.

Mantis,

It appears the stock setup uses the rear ackerman hole on the rack already. I was under the impression that raising the inner camber link would give more traction so i was lowering it, stock has 2 washers under the ball stud, i tried removing them but didn't see a positive change so i went back to 2, am i thinking of that backwards?

Cherry,

Tire of choice at the track is proline blockades which i have been using the last 2 test days out. I was mistaken on my rear spring and had put on reds which am sure was a small part of the issue. I went back to yellows but still need more in the back, ill give blues a shot next for sure.

Blake

Raising the inner link give you less initial steering, so you were making it worse by lowering it, set your alignment like i suggested as well as the shock positions try it and see what happens!

Great info from you guys.

Why dont you give this a try this is what I run on my outdoor track but mine is blown out

Just tried to rebuild my rear diff with the rebuild kit with the updated shims and now my diff binds up. I am using the same out drives but I can't exactly tell if there is too much play in them. Would that cause it? I used all new gears, the new shims and the o rings. Just same gear diff housing and the out drives, what could be the problem? Someone suggested I try using the old gears but the new shims. What you guys think?

Been struggling with this myself for a the last few weeks(since I've built the truck) and just re did my rear diff last night again. mine feels fine when fresh for about 3 runs, then randomly locks up. From what I've read it appears to be the sun gear spacing. Last night I ended up with one side that is per instructions, a spacer between the cup and case and a spacer between the o-ring and sun gear. The other half has 2 spacers between the o-ring and sun gear. If i did it equally with the new shims per instructions, it would bind as soon as I bolted the diff assembly together. Seems to be a trial and error situation.

Blake

Are you two guys using the washer that go on the screws. they are needed so the diff don't bind go to the first page of this thread all the info is there

Imrob, I was talking about the diff assembly itself, not the transmission case, 3 screws with washers, is that what you are referring to?

Blake

If your using the newer 0.5 sun gear washers, you don't use the washer between the diff case and outdrive.
There should be one 0.5 washer under each of the two sun gears and that's it.
Make sure you are following the manual for the diff housing screw length and washers and just get them snug, not tight.

Blake

Experience smiliar issues with the diff.
Had to mix worn spider gear's with new sun gears & .5 shims.

Also not had to do anything, depends on luck a bit as the gears can come tight and some just right.

@ the track


Tuning the PINK

Made a few minor changes to the set up.

Looking forward to the next race , best it has drove ever .

Still using lite setup with a Reedy shorty.

Will bring the details Saturday night.

.

I ran this truck for a year and a half and never stripped 1 idler gear. Rx8 and pro4 4600 what's your set up.