Cherry:

Any instructions, with photos, any where? I just lost my servo so need to replace it. I am going to do this while the truck is apart. Bought the servo mounts at the track tonight. Is it as easy as it sounds?

And loosen my servo saver up a bit!

Hi, I have been running the servo flat on the chassis and it works great. It does away with the complicated stock mount and allows for easier servo removal. Check out my "how to" I posted here (starts at post #485), pretty much what WC is running:

http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...10-4x4-25.html

I think maybe he's thinking the bladder will wear out faster because without the bleeder screw pressurizing the chamber above the bladder, the bladder will flex more, and like anything, the more it moves, the faster it will wear out.

I think the piston/oil/lower seals will wear the same, but the upper bladder will wear a little faster....though if you are replacing it monthly anyway, then you probably won't notice. (Some people only replace them once they tear....)

The bladder moves the same regardless if the screw is there are not, the oil volume doesnt change, to be honest you actually put less strain on the bladder with them being open because there is no pressure being put on them when the shock goes into compression. They act like a balloon if there is no where for the air to go.

Marcus, thanks for the rapid assistance as usual. I am running the front blue spring on the rear too. Went with your oil suggestions. I think the same also what you mean about the screw left out. The bonus is you sure know when your bladder is worn out when u leave the screw out cuz it sure is apparent by the leakage...

TSR bladders rock.
http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...0005-13mm.html

Thanks !!!!!!!

There ya go! problem solved!

Ok, so I am wrong....

Tell me why:

stock AE piston, bladder, with bleed srew installed = bladders last for years

RCShox piston, bladder bleed srew removed = bladders last maybe a couple months at best

?

It is either more wear from movement (IE no screw) or from the rcshox pistons making contact.... I run 3mm limiter front and 5mm rear and the bladder lifespan is a couple months at best!

Yeah, when I built the shocks up with your 2 stage pistons, I put the TSR bladders in and they went for about a year. Sold the truck so don't know if their still hanging in.

could it be the AE bladders dry out faster when exposed to air?

on the smart phone


Remove front clip

Grind X & ridge in back flush with Dremel

Install servo brackets onto servo

Place & center servo on chassis & mark holes & drill servo
brackets holes

Use stock servo horn

I think your missing the point! if the bladders broke after the first two days then i think there is an issue, but if it takes a month or more then at least in my eyes it is just the bladders get hard a different times, either way the bladders should not get hard and as they get hard you lose performance. a new set of bladders will work wonders in the handling department, since it is a slow process of them getting hard it not very noticeable. Just because you can run the stock pistons for 3 years and not crack a bladder doesnt mean there is not a problem, anything over 5 weeks on stock bladders yoru performance will suffer! It is a known fact that they get hard in about 3-4 weeks depending on oil used and temperatures, as it gets colder they get worse. The bladders move the same amount with or without the screw, how can they not its the same displacement of oil and shaft? Make sense

Hey Guys, struggling a bit trying to find an outdoor setup for the truck that will keep the rear end under control, looking for a setup or some advice. The tracks I'm racing at are pretty hard packed but not blue grooved during club races so a top layer of dust will form, nothing loamy/sandy though.

Truck has plenty of steering, just way to loose. Started with the stock setup and ended up with yellow springs up front and short/lower camber link, whites in the back, no rear sway bar and the 8mm mod. This has made the truck a bit better but still not able to put the power down without the rear kicking around in high and low speed turns. If i try to stiffen up the front more via springs or shock locations it causes the truck to be inconsistent over the bumps and in the air. I also tried the overdrive pulley up front and saw no improvement so i went back to normal.

Any help is appreciated,

Blake

Blake

First try moving the shocks all the way inside on the rear tower

switch to blue rear for even more traction

Check what the other trucks are using for tires