The c-diff works better in 99% of situations. The only time I can see the quad VTS working better is indoors, sugared track.

Or...........

If you've never driven a proper 3-diff vehicle and have spent so much time letting the slipper be your throttle control instead of learning how to control the throttle yourself.

I gonna put a order in for it soon. I know I have throttle control. I have proven that my two ft sct can win at my track I go to.

I Think i Will try exotek front locker and the triple vts. Should work fine on carpet.. ???

Or if anyone has any better ideas.. plz let this rookie know

What most do not realize is that the Cdif with all 10 pins completely locks up a few feet out of the turns. SO even on ultra high grip tracks it still works better than any slipper with pads that fade and you have to clean/replace every week.


Cdif, your eventually going to end up with one as most do, and for good reason. If you are stuck with just wanting to stick with a slipper pad than order the FT garodisc, you dont have to "stack" anything, maintain anything, never need replacement and never glaze, will outperform the "quad" setup ALL DAY LONG!!

VTS Baby !

Undefeatable performance ..

either 3 or 4 pads the Vts will be the best choice ..

No lock up , less wheel spin ,

more traction , smoother off power entering the corners ..


TIP
Suggest you install the C-hub mod , raise chassis stud 7mm of spacers ....

On high grip the C hub controls chassis roll & will help you traction roll less .

Last night @ TRCR's Sc Saturday .....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=RrsHI29K0D8

Thanks for sharing the info

Didn't have that experience with the +8mm mod like WC has claimed ...

I felt I gained traction from it.

But, considering the fact that while doing this mod you raise the inner ball stud up to 7mm in general, that is the part that will take away rear bite. For anyone wanting to try this mod, I would highly recommend you use the same static inner ball stud height before making the riser change on the hub carrier.

That way, you can actually see how it works versus changing to two areas on the car and assuming what it actually did.

As for the comment as to what is the best choice, VTS with X pads or a center diff, Me personally I trust a lot in the info that Shark posts, great contributor who actually tries stuff before commenting on it being good or bad, so looking forward to seeing what he finds.

Guys..

a good way to experience the change in performance with the stud height is to first start out with only 4mm of spacers.

After a few packs add the additional 2 or 3mm of spacers..

On this I am 100% certain how the mod is used & performs.

Higher the stud ?
The trucks rear will remain flat and roll less.

On the track feels less tippy higher you raise.
Feels like more grip & more stability..

Sundance that is incorrect information. Lowering the inside camber link point will raise roll center what it does is give more initial grip on entry and then less grip on exit so the truck will "drift " more on exit. On a slow track it may work but if you dont run on a small "MINI Z" size track its not going to work very well as CAin stated. All of the newbies need to realize that the track WC runs on only has a top speed of 13mph, ultra high grip and no jumps further than 5 or 6ft, on top of that he runs 2 pole low power motors. Thats fine and dandy but also realize that he NEVER runs on a loose open high speed track. So to make it simple if you can run your truck with no belt gaurd , 2 pole motor and are able to be about the same speed as the other trucks (losi, Tekno), then he may make some sense but on the other hand if you run on tracks that are low to med grip, have to run high power motors and MUST run a belt guard for fear of rocks and pebbles shredding your belt, his setups and info will just confuse you. The 8mm mod will probably work great if you have no speed or on low speed corners but you go trucking down a 150' straight with the 8mm mod on med grip your truck will traction roll and will get worse as grip comes up. On a loose track the 8mm mod works great because the rear will slide instead of grip and it is controllable. We can all agree that the truck is sensitive to setups ,tires and track conditions, keep that in mind while you are trying things out. I have and do run on both conditions and can give "realistic" feedback from the real world situations and setups. I dont just copy what someone else sends me and I actually know how to tune a chassis! Case and point

* Lowering the chassis stud height will bring more chassis roll & less traction...

Thats incorrect or at least not complete, no Roll center mod will give less or more grip across the board, you have three parts to a corner, entry,mid and exit. rollcenter adjustments will increase two of the three and the other will be opposite. so if you increase entry and mid you will lose exit grip and vice versa.

Increasing your camber link length will bring more chassis roll.

BOOM GOES THA DYNAMITE!!

+1000!
Its unfortunate that on occasion we have to read through such blatant n biased information, worst, some blindly listen to a certain mules ilogical, fan boy mentality.

Blinders have been off me for a while now, and sense have stopped fighting the truck. Instead, i understand its strengths and weaknesses. I have to drive this truck differently then my losi scte, which i can appreciate at times. It still though, can be the hot ticket of choice for me on race day, depending on track and conditions.
No matter what though, imo the losi is more stable and forgiving.

sundance
rather then get into a piss match with some here ?

Do as I suggested ..

I recommended starting at 4mm because you said carpet .

Think that may be best for you .

Still try 7mm and see how it affects the handling for yourself .

Don't believe me or who ever ....


to help

2 or 3 mm will make a noticeable effect on the handling and you can learn which works best for you by trying both .

Last night me & my teammate started at 4mm .

conditions became very grabbie & dusty

so we went to 6mm and we both experience improved laps times as the truck rolled less in the sharp corners and made it more stable & predicable in the corner as well .

he achieved a great qualifying position as a result , myself not so good but my laps time showed improvement ...

so I stuck with and had a great main considering how I qualified. ...

nice too see that som many people want to help . but i think im starting to get a little bit confused ??

But i think i have figured out that Raising the ball studs is the way to goo in high traction carpet . Whit my old truck i had terrible rear traction when entering the turn, i was run stock setup..

Sorry for the confusion, you just happened to step into a war zone I tell you what just download the HUDY tuning guide read up on it and then ask questions. this way you have a baseline for what these mods will do to your truck.

What type of track do you run on?

This the track i run my sc10 on
//m.youtube.com/watch?v=RBMimjgR8Ps


Very fast and extremely grippy ...