bi level wings are kinda fragile for those of us that roof it a lot. The JC wings are pretty cheap because you get 2 of them. I have not tried them recently, didnt know they made them thicker.

Side Note: I saw a local this weekend who used the JC alum wing mounts, cut the nubs off, drilled and tapped the mount and it using screws to mount the wing. Looks so nice. Should have been that way from the start.

side topic. Sensor wires. Which are you guys using? style and what not. I have been breaking a ton of these lately. Part of it is my fault because I swap out motors and esc's weekly, so I am plugging and unplugging a lot. Currently I am trying out the TQ wire flat wire sensor cable. All of the ones in tubes have failed recently. Some of them the wire was just too stiff i think. some were soft wire, and I tried to zip tie them in place, but the still broke. about 1/3 of them break at the esc and the rest at the motor. thoughts.

I use the Reedy sensor wire. No issues yet.

I run the Viper sensor wires...that said if you're breaking them you may need a slightly longer wire...more service loop. Knock on wood I haven't had an issue yet but I'm also not swapping motors around so the wires just stay in place.

yeah, I normally use the 200mm ones and they are normally a bit long. I was thinking of trying 175mm flat wire. less if I like the esc in the tray. maybe 150mm.

Tip
metal wing mount


do not grind the nubs off flush , grind a flat spot instead leaving half the nub .
This way the wing will not shift if the screws come loose ..

I am running the LR High Flex Wire, no issues so far

Correct he ground it down to the body clip hole. Then drilled and tapped

I'm using the TQ flat sensor wire and I really like it.

Highly doubtful. Have you ever seen a LMR wing?

how much do those wings cost? id try one if my lhs had em.. or anyone close for that matter.

If you are breaking sensor wires it is more than likely that you are puling on the cable and not the connector when you are swapping motors. the wire on the sensor wires are very delicate and you should be using something to pull on the connector. I ca glue a strip of the thinnest lexan to the smooth side of the connector and using a pair pf pliers remove the sensor wire by pulling on that.

The Only way I have found to make it work properly is to remove some material from the connector to allow the lexan to be attached and not allow for any additional width so it will fit into the socket.


Not all that hard, but you have to play with it. so take one of your broken ones and try with that first. then continue. you may have to sand down the finished connector some to get it to fit.

http://glitchrc.com/search.php

they are in arizona. should get it quick in cali

yeah, I grab the wires close to the connector and gently wiggle it out. I know that is stressing then and I need to cut back on motor swaping, lol. I put a new one in my kids car and she broke 4 of the wires in the main. luckily the HW esc's dont stop when the wires break, lol. I love the instant switch to sensorless. Helps reduce the DNF's. But her wires were not secured will and were very stiff. I am gonna stick with the tq flat wire for now and try to reduce taking my motor and esc out so much.

The JC wings are like $10 for 2. The aftermarket ones are stronger and better quality then the ones that come with the bodies. The JC wings are pretty strong, I went 3 months on 1 wing in my 4wd buggy