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Old 07-29-2013 | 04:48 PM
  #3886  
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There are many who believe that the big bore springs coupled to the smaller bored shocks represents the best of both worlds. Just need a few extra parts to make it work.

I have a question for you all... well, a story of sorts. I've been running my trucks since I got it with the same shock setup that I bought it with (second hand). It's always seemed a bit loose in the rear end, especially when the track isn't wet down. It's a clay surface with loose dust on top.
Any way, the other day, just for kicks I changed the shock oil from 40f, 30r to 35f, 30r. Seemed to make the truck handle the bumpy stuff a bit better, but she was still a bit loose in the bum. So the next thing I did was change the front shock position from the nearest to center holes on the tower and inner most hold on the arms to the outer most hole on the tower and left the arm position unchanged. This made the truck way, way, way more predictable.

I thought it was supposed to work the other way around?
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Old 07-29-2013 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Chamelion
There are many who believe that the big bore springs coupled to the smaller bored shocks represents the best of both worlds. Just need a few extra parts to make it work.

I have a question for you all... well, a story of sorts. I've been running my trucks since I got it with the same shock setup that I bought it with (second hand). It's always seemed a bit loose in the rear end, especially when the track isn't wet down. It's a clay surface with loose dust on top.
Any way, the other day, just for kicks I changed the shock oil from 40f, 30r to 35f, 30r. Seemed to make the truck handle the bumpy stuff a bit better, but she was still a bit loose in the bum. So the next thing I did was change the front shock position from the nearest to center holes on the tower and inner most hold on the arms to the outer most hole on the tower and left the arm position unchanged. This made the truck way, way, way more predictable.

I thought it was supposed to work the other way around?
The more vertical the shock is, the more responsive it will be come! So that is what made it respond, my t4 was having terrible understeer issues(prolly cause the 3800 4pole) but I took the shocks from the inner hole on the tower and outer hole on the a-arm, to the outer hole on the tower, and inner hole on the a-arm and now the front will bite way more!!!!
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Old 07-29-2013 | 05:44 PM
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The more vertical the shock is, the more linear the spring rate and damping will be. When the shock is angled, the spring rate and damping will get progressively stiffer as the wheel moves up. And on the flip side, the spring rate gets softer as you extend the suspension, this can lead to weird handling problems. I always prefer linear.
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Old 07-29-2013 | 05:48 PM
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Makes sense and well matches what I noticed. I've been mixing it up with the best at my local tracks with it all unpredictable (haven't missed an A main in spite of only picking up the hobby earlier this year) and best result has been second a few times, a third and a fifth in order from latest to most distant results.

Can't wait to see how I do tomorrow night. Based on the laps I was pushing out yesterday on the unprepared surface I should be in good shape to better my PB.

Thanks muchly for the replies.
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Old 07-29-2013 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Oztiger
After some advise. Which are better shocks? The tf 1.32 v2 and 1.5 v2 shocks or the big bores. I made an error in ordering, that is got these shocks and ordered the 12 mm spring sets. Will the 12 mm springs work with these shocks?

Will it be better to just get the 12 mm big bore shocks?

Upgrading a sc10rs to factory spec's.......

Help greatly appreciated
You can get shock collars and couplers to fit ghe bb spring on a v2 shock...think "Avid"makes some. I am actually tring to figure out same thing(kinda). I converted a rs to ft except for bb's and a few ft screws. I have heard mixed things bout the bb's do to the springs rubbing on the shocks. I was wondering if its better to build some threaded v2's with Ghea pistons and avid springs?
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Old 07-30-2013 | 01:54 AM
  #3891  
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Default 12 mm springs and v2 Associated shocks

1 x AVD1014Avid RC 12mm Spring Collar Adapters (4)
1 x ASC91310Team Associated 12mm Shock Spring Cup Set(12)

Parts ordered to fit the 12 mm shock springs to the v2 shocks. For those that care, if you use the 12 mm springs you must use the +9mm bottom shock collars on the front shocks as the springs are very short.

research is a wonderful thing, thanks to all that replied.
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Old 07-30-2013 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Chamelion

Can't wait to see how I do tomorrow night. Based on the laps I was pushing out yesterday on the unprepared surface I should be in good shape to better my PB.
I kno the feeling I am dying to get mine on the track this thurs
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Old 07-30-2013 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by KAWIDAD
You can get shock collars and couplers to fit ghe bb spring on a v2 shock...think "Avid"makes some. I am actually tring to figure out same thing(kinda). I converted a rs to ft except for bb's and a few ft screws. I have heard mixed things bout the bb's do to the springs rubbing on the shocks. I was wondering if its better to build some threaded v2's with Ghea pistons and avid springs?
I dont know where you got your info from but thats what the new bb's were designed to not do is RUB on the shock bodies....For the what you get and in the longrun you will benefit more with these shocks including setups as they change....
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Old 07-30-2013 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
I dont know where you got your info from but thats what the new bb's were designed to not do is RUB on the shock bodies....For the what you get and in the longrun you will benefit more with these shocks including setups as they change....
Ikr, all the guys I kno that run BBs never had an issue with the shocks rubbing!!
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Old 07-31-2013 | 08:14 PM
  #3895  
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Anyone know if there is a FT hardware kit(FT screws, ballstuds) for the sc10? Even maybe just the screws as a package so dont have to purchase seperate.
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Old 07-31-2013 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by theblitzkidd
I kno the feeling I am dying to get mine on the track this thurs
Was only a practice night and with a dusty loose as track, but oh my was it nice. Can't wait for next weds.
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Old 08-01-2013 | 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Chamelion
Was only a practice night and with a dusty loose as track, but oh my was it nice. Can't wait for next weds.
Tonight is the night for me the sc10 will finally be getting used, on the new layout
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Old 08-01-2013 | 07:48 AM
  #3898  
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Originally Posted by KAWIDAD
Anyone know if there is a FT hardware kit(FT screws, ballstuds) for the sc10? Even maybe just the screws as a package so dont have to purchase seperate.
Take your pick, from crazy prices to average and fair.

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...ode=TRUC-ASC10

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...SC10-Screw-Kit
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Old 08-01-2013 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Acill
Thanks Acill...I have seen the ss kits just not the ti kit. Your right pretty pricey
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Old 08-04-2013 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by KAWIDAD
Thanks Acill...I have seen the ss kits just not the ti kit. Your right pretty pricey
Today i took the tq in the a main with my ft sct. i did have the same problem after rebuilding my ball diff. the problem was the shock limiter. i took them all out front and rear for full drop and holy cow night and day difference. there were a lot of losi guy out there. i did come in the 3rd in the first quail. but after that it was all first. i even dropped a tooth down on my pinion from a 28 to a 26. I was able to run full blast though the hole race with out letting go. It feels so good to win first normally i come in third or 4th. this is a large outdoor blown out track that 1/5 scale run on also every weekend. i was lapping these guy so easy i the mic guy all he did was talk about how i was on fire lol. i hope this dont make ego to big lol.
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