24LikesSC10 Thread Part 2
03-12-2013 | 02:56 PM
#3137
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 192
i have a problem im hoping you guys can help me with. i have a sc10ft. my current su is bb shocks, blue rr springs, 1.2 pist, 30 wt oil, 4th hole on the tower, outer hole on the arm, camber link is inner hole chassis, 2 washers, shaved brace, outer is all the way outside, ft bearing carriers with A block, front is yellow springs, 1.5 pist, 35 wt oil, outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm, camber link is inner hole tower, 2 washers, middle hole on c block. im running the battery all the way back, ballast weight under rr tower, and a rr sway bar. i set camber at 1° both frt and rr. the problem is, when i go into a corner, the inside rr wheel lifts off the ground and of course all the power is tranfered to it and i cant get out of the corner till the truck settles down. it doesnt matter if i go slow into a corner, or hard. but the harder i go in, the more the tire lifts off the ground. i set mine up just like one of the faster locals, and it still did it. his truck stays much flatter than mine, and he can drive thru the corner. my current su is from me trying different things.
its very frustrating watching everybody else drive by me, while my tire is in the air spinning away!! any suggestions?
its very frustrating watching everybody else drive by me, while my tire is in the air spinning away!! any suggestions?
03-12-2013 | 03:25 PM
#3138
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 112
From: Wisconsin
03-13-2013 | 09:44 AM
#3141
The red fronts and grey rears are working for me. With 40wt shock oil.
Of course im running the factory team kit. Alot of people run 40wt outdoors.
30wt seems about right for indoors. As what my kit came with.
I have not had any durability issues yet. Truck has been ran twice on two
different indoor tracks.
Of course im running the factory team kit. Alot of people run 40wt outdoors.
30wt seems about right for indoors. As what my kit came with.
I have not had any durability issues yet. Truck has been ran twice on two
different indoor tracks.
03-13-2013 | 12:22 PM
#3142
new arms and towers
Normally, going out on the tower results in less traction. With these new towers we're going out far past any setting previously available with seemingly no loss in steering. How does this happen? Does it have something to do with lowering the mount on the arms and the "gullwing" design? You get to keep all your steering, it increases stability and you dont need a swaybar anymore, but why? The same thing happened on the 1/8th scale, and many other vehicles have the same type of layout now, like the Losi 22. Just wondering from a design and engineering point how this works better and why. Thanks in advance for any facts, or opinions.
03-13-2013 | 05:02 PM
#3144
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 112
From: Wisconsin
03-13-2013 | 06:56 PM
#3145
03-14-2013 | 07:26 AM
#3148
Any clay type bar tire will work,for out doors depends on track surface I have brand new double dees mounted if your intrested
03-14-2013 | 07:27 AM
#3149
Most of the guys at the track will tell you what is best to run there. I would ask the guy who finishes first most of the time at either track I'm sure they will tell you what tires they have.