The solar d770 is fine. All of your stuff is fine. Just fine a good setup for your dirt, carpet or AstroTurf track. If you dont have Titanium turnbuckles, you might want to get a set. I prefer Lundfords for the lifetime warranty. I bent a few and 8 year later I mailed them back and they sent me new ones. Didnt even need a receipt. You might want some lead weight also for your setup. I prefer the RPM front bumper. It has a nice skid plate to save your chassis and it performs better imo.

Thanks...It is not badly beaten...I have many parts coming for it including bearings. I will go through it.
So when you grap you wheels there is no movement what so ever? No wiggle at all??

When you say add weight...why do you fellas do that..is it a traction thing or something else?

Yes, less droop means the truck will corner flatter and will be more responsive in the turns.

More droop means the truck will handle jumps and bumps better.

Just as important as ride height in my opinion.

If I have a few droop gage sets made (5, 7, 9 deg front and rear) is anyone interested in buying for $15-$20/set? Avail in a few weeks.

PM me if interested.

there is be some wiggle. the bearings have play in them and the suspension will have some play. At some point it becomes excessive. Make a video, lol. Much easier to tell from a video if it is bad or not.

weight is used to eigther even out the left to right weight or move the weight forward or back for the desired traction. The "common" setup is battery forward and 3oz weight under the rear battery foam. People without weight, often start out with the battery back. and move it forward as needed.

The wiggle is not excessive...but it is there a small bit...the real problem I see on both trucks is the steering racks which are stock...the Blitz is real bad...the SC not to bad...Can't wait to get the new bell cranks!! Thanks for Help and to a great thread!

The weight thing is a little more confusing...I thought using heavier springs in the from was a good way to get more traction in the back.
Do I look for skidding around corners or bad traction when accelerating to add weight in one area or another?

O ya I forgot to add that i already have an rpm front bumper (first upgrade i did). I also have 3oz of weight behind battery,battery in the middle and a quarter ounce of weight in each front triangle. That setup worked good for outdoors this summer.

The aluminum ones are HORRIBLE for that! Adding a set screw in the middle of the hub (like a sedan uses) makes it a lot better. Plastic ones fit tons better.

No bueno if you are trying to use the C hub, but beggars can't be choosers.

Can I see a picture for the 3oz of weight? Also do you mean all the way forward for the battery by battery forward?

Another question I have was answered during this thread but I forgot. If I have the alum rear hubs what bearing kit do I buy from avid also are the revolutions the best or rubber?

Having a couple questions. One i was told to remove my sway bar on indoor clay. Would anyone recommend using one and if so which one? Also i just have the shocks that come on the sc10rs currently. What do people consider to be the best shocks for this truck?

Order the b4.1 bearing kit. It comes with two of the bearings you need for the alum rear. hubs. and i think the revolution is the best bearing they make. i like it anyways. As far as where to position the battery. just play around with it until you get it where you like it. personally i run it all the way to the back with the 3oz in the back. you can also cut your battery foam and half to give you more options. just test and keep testing and find whats best for you.

i have ran the alum ones for 2 races now. havent noticed a problem. what do you mean add a set screw?

Hey guys I hit the track today for some practice with the new setup (Tekin Redline 7.5 sensored and Brushless Hobbies 120a esc). Ran awesome. First time at this track and I was running consistent lap times with some of the best guys there. My motor/esc was running super cool. Motor barely broke 100 with a 22t pinion and 84t spur.(It was only about 50 degrees inside). Ran great the first two packs. I had an issue once I got to my third pack. I was be going down the straight and the power would die out and it would cut right. I would stop for a second and hit it again and I would have full power for a few seconds then it would do it again. When I check my lipo one cell was 4.01v and the other was 3.34v. Can I assume that the one cell is bad and under load it dropping way too low and the esc is cutting out? I always balance charge, and I always check my lipos voltage before I put it in the truck. Thanks guys.

sounds like a bad cell. when you balance charge it next time, I would watch it closely. No need for a fire. Check the cells to make sure they are the same and try again. if the cells get that far apart again, I would toss it.