SC10 4x4 Thread
I wouldn't use 3.5mm bullets unless they were castle brand. I've seen alot of motor problems on my buddys rigs because he insists on running cheap bullets because he's to lazy to do his own soldering. He always runs the cheap bullets and they just dont last and his motors cut out all the time but he still runs them.
That's where I was starting to lean. Shows up on Hi draw applications. What do you suggest?? I like the idea of being able to switch things with out soldering all the time, especially trackside its quicker and at one track I have no a/c power.
Nothing wrong with bullet style connections its just that the birdcage style SUCK! TQ makes some nice ones as well as many others.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 141
From: Mechanicville, NY
I have been searching for a starting SC10 setup with folks using the Exotek chassis. With all the weight added, I'm assuming Springs, Oil weight, etc might want to start differently. I mainly run Med-Large outdoor tracks, med grip, hard pack dirt and often dusty conditions.
Thank you in advance for the help getting me in the right direction.
Thank you in advance for the help getting me in the right direction.
I have been searching for a starting SC10 setup with folks using the Exotek chassis. With all the weight added, I'm assuming Springs, Oil weight, etc might want to start differently. I mainly run Med-Large outdoor tracks, med grip, hard pack dirt and often dusty conditions.
Thank you in advance for the help getting me in the right direction.
Thank you in advance for the help getting me in the right direction.
As for the discussion on bullets, when I was wanting to swap motors, I used castles 6.5mm bullets at the time. Excellent connections.
I got a chance to test my light SC10 on an 8th scale track. I used the stock blue springs, RCshox c-Diff V2 and 2-stage pistons with 5k in both diffs. The truck was significantly better than ever. I had posted that I had some sort of driveline issue but I checked everything and it was fine. Love this truck now. I'm racing it tomorrow!
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 939
From: Commerce Twp. MI
On the other hand, i don't think its absolutely necessary, as that thrust bearing should last a while regardless.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 939
From: Commerce Twp. MI
I have done it, and works just fine for me. The key is to use a very minimal amount. I dab a dot on my finger and rub it up against the thrust bearing balls. Its like a thin film rubbed equally throughout the bearing, so that there is no clunky chunks of grease hanging around. Have been on the same thrust bearing for almost 2 years now. Think the manual even says to use a small amount on it. I just use a minimal amount so no excess grease gets flung around. Keeps it smooth and quiet imo.
On the other hand, i don't think its absolutely necessary, as that thrust bearing should last a while regardless.
On the other hand, i don't think its absolutely necessary, as that thrust bearing should last a while regardless.



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