I absolutely love my motor yes. Very smooth and powerful! You will not be disappointed

In fact if I had to choose a different motor is stay the same just buy the 2100kv version for outside lol.

Anybody looking for a 8ight 3.0e?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...lmost-new.html

Does it get very hot when you gear it high enough for outdoor track or loosing much torque? I dont need much torque, my track is loose with long straights

Check out the bottom of page 9:

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...uning_Tips.pdf


"Rear Dogbones:
An optional rear axle and dog bone set (TLR342002) is available for the Team Losi Racing 8IGHT 3.0 buggy. The dog bones have less mechanical bind than the standard CVA type driveshaft that comes stock on the 8IGHT 3.0. The decrease in mechanical bind allows the car to handle bumps better, but will offer less rear support. The CVAs will produce more lock-up and forward traction, but the dog bones work best when the track is really rough."

Yea, wont need them then, not sure how i missed that in the tuning guide, ive only read it 100 times now

Go to YouTube and search "chitownrc" there's a video of my track. Has 7-20-13 in the title. We have a fairly long straight also. I'm maxed out on gearing I think. If I go one tooth up it is a lot faster but my temps shoot over 200 after 10 minutes. I never notice a loss in torque. Electric to me has too much all the time lol. Just add some punch if u feel loss

Last question what is your gearing?

Is anyone else having problems with the motor mount coming loose? Mine keep coming loose and I am tired of it coming loose during a race and stripping gears...

Thread Lock.. I have 0 problems..

Are you running the little mount underneath the back of the motor that bolts to the chassis?

Nice track man!

Thanks! I'm geared whatever spur comes with the electric conversion kit and a 15 pinion. I may go up a tooth and just rock temps of 180-200. For some dumb reason the orion r8pro ESC doesn't compute timing when sensored. Really strange

And my motor mount comes loose also. I can't run the brace in the back. My motor can is too big. I used a very tiny dab of thread lok. Do not use a lot I stripped my head out and had to dremel a slit and had no choice but to cut a little of the chassis on a new car.

Even if your can would fit, dont run that motor brace in the rear, it kicks the motor up when the chassis flexes and can cause the spur to strip..

I had to do some dremmling once to Luckily for me, im like a surgeon with tools, didnt take any chassis with it lol..

Wow, surprised there's not alot more guy's talking about this rig on here...
I've been running the Tekno for a couple months but my scte 2.0 is so easy for me to drive fast that I just picked up a E-converted 3.0 to try. Any tips would be appreciated.