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Old 07-22-2013 | 03:22 AM
  #8026  
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Originally Posted by suzukipro
I'm running the Kyosho light blues all the way around and noticed off power steering improved a bit by removing the front sway bar. I think I'm going to try the K-orange springs all the way around and see if that helps as off power steering is my biggest issue at the tight indoor I've been racing at.

On a side note I suffered some ugly crashes this weekend and thought everything was fine while at the track. Only when I unpacked at home did I noticed I'd been driving with a half broken off front A-arm, Very impressed with this kit...
My buddy tried the same thing. He took off both his sway bars and it was good for a bit until the bite came up to medium. Then his car got irratic. I dont reccomend taking off the sway bars. Lighter spring rate allowed the car to load more weight over the outside wheels and heavy bars kept it from rolling too far and diffing out. In low to medium bite, was the best i have had to date. Spring rate needed will increase when bite comes up. On my local track, i havnt needed any more spring than a tekno green. Blues or oranges k springs are too stiff for my track, i may be able to get away with orange k springs but prefer the less progressive tekno spring.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 06:49 AM
  #8027  
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My outdoor track is super bumpy and blown out with huge jumps, so I went to green fronts and red rears. Not enough grip here for the heavy k springs, although I would like to try a set.

Broke my first part yesterday after 7+ months of brutal abuse. Stock front arm got ripped off after another buggy hit me head on from the other lane. I finally got to put on my xtra tough arms that have been in my parts box all this time.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 07:35 AM
  #8028  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
If you need more off-power steering try increasing your anti-squat or running the Ackermann in the rear position.
I'll try doing both and report back, Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 09:49 AM
  #8029  
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Default 2013 Hot Rod Hobbies Shootout!

I just though I'd give everyone a quick update...I just got back from the Shootout at Hot Rod Hobbies in Santa Clarita, CA

Finished 3rd in the A for 1/8 ebuggy.

Car was good. Couldn't quite get it the way I wanted.....but I'm sure a big part of it was tires.

Ran kyosho blue springs front and rear - oil was losi 37/30 - Tekno 8 x 1.3 hole pistons

and 5/10/3 in the diffs......shoulda ran 5/15/3

I made friends with another guy who ended up 2nd overall, Rad Brill, who was also running a Tekno...we ended up on a very similar set up. a touch heavier in shock oil.

I finished 2-3-3
He finished 3-2-4

but Rad had a better run in A2 so I lost the tie breaker.

Overall a super fun weekend.

if anyones interested in buying the car pleas pm me...may sell it!

Love the way the car performs but no support where I'm at!
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Old 07-22-2013 | 09:54 AM
  #8030  
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Last edited by Jason Snyder; 07-22-2013 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 10:08 AM
  #8031  
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The track we raced this weekend had a fun layout w/a couple mogul/burm obstacles that thru a twist into things. It was grooved in some sections and totally blown out w/powder and craters in others.
Anyway, only changes I made prior to the race were
-center diff from 10k to 7k
-front arm sweep from swept back to neutral 'middle of pills"
It seemed to gain a ton of initial turn in! Like way to much. I tried to tune it out w/expo, dual rate and finally turned down servo speed to 70% but nothing felt right.
I see all the other brand buggies running lt.blue rears, way heavier rear springs than I feel I can use on this because I will lose even more rear traction. I went back to lt.blue front/kyo yellow rear to try and gain rear traction and lose turn in.
That last sentence made me question my thinking about turn in... If I run real soft rear and real stiff front, would initial turn in get even more aggressive? like running a really stiff front sway bar does. It makes for twitchy aggressive steering but will add a push mid to exit. I couldn't tell if my car had a mid corner push because the initial was so aggressive, I could oversteer from the wind blowing.
I'm beginning to question the CSI pistons... I'm up to 45/37.5 in the heat,from the 27.5/20 recommended, it feels good by pushing down but if I drop it from 10 inches of the bench, it bottoms hard. Front and rear. I have AE 8x1.3's, are they any different than the KYO one's?
I want to apologize for the long a$$ post and being all over the place but I want to make this buggy work. Need some expert advise. BTW, I have 1.5 r block and +2mm hex's coming w/a bunch of other goodies.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 10:27 AM
  #8032  
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Originally Posted by Blown up
The track we raced this weekend had a fun layout w/a couple mogul/burm obstacles that thru a twist into things. It was grooved in some sections and totally blown out w/powder and craters in others.
Anyway, only changes I made prior to the race were
-center diff from 10k to 7k
-front arm sweep from swept back to neutral 'middle of pills"
It seemed to gain a ton of initial turn in! Like way to much. I tried to tune it out w/expo, dual rate and finally turned down servo speed to 70% but nothing felt right.
I see all the other brand buggies running lt.blue rears, way heavier rear springs than I feel I can use on this because I will lose even more rear traction. I went back to lt.blue front/kyo yellow rear to try and gain rear traction and lose turn in.
That last sentence made me question my thinking about turn in... If I run real soft rear and real stiff front, would initial turn in get even more aggressive? like running a really stiff front sway bar does. It makes for twitchy aggressive steering but will add a push mid to exit. I couldn't tell if my car had a mid corner push because the initial was so aggressive, I could oversteer from the wind blowing.
I'm beginning to question the CSI pistons... I'm up to 45/37.5 in the heat,from the 27.5/20 recommended, it feels good by pushing down but if I drop it from 10 inches of the bench, it bottoms hard. Front and rear. I have AE 8x1.3's, are they any different than the KYO one's?
I want to apologize for the long a$$ post and being all over the place but I want to make this buggy work. Need some expert advise. BTW, I have 1.5 r block and +2mm hex's coming w/a bunch of other goodies.

Hey boss..I've been playing with set ups for a while.......I'd try out the Curtis Door set up.....its pretty good.....

Heck even the stock set up is pretty good with 7/5/5

the Barry Baker OCRC set up is good too.....may need to go 5/7/3 in the diffs the 5/5/5 combo can be a bit much depending on the driving style.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 11:31 AM
  #8033  
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Originally Posted by protc3
I also run pretty heavy sway bars too keep the car from rolling too far in the corners. The car seems to really like soft springs. My fastest and most consistant lap times are with a very soft spring rate.
I am finding the same thing with a softer setup: green springs/35wt/1.3x8/2.5 bar on both ends. Never liked the K-springs, made the car seem real lazy.

Also have 5-7-3, want to try 5-10-3 and 5-10-5. My track is low to medium traction, dusty.

What swaybars do you consider heavy? Are you in the 2.8 or 3.0 range?
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Old 07-22-2013 | 11:36 AM
  #8034  
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..

Last edited by bcjoldbq; 07-22-2013 at 11:37 AM. Reason: double post
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Old 07-22-2013 | 11:57 AM
  #8035  
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Originally Posted by Blown up
The track we raced this weekend had a fun layout w/a couple mogul/burm obstacles that thru a twist into things. It was grooved in some sections and totally blown out w/powder and craters in others.
Anyway, only changes I made prior to the race were
-center diff from 10k to 7k
-front arm sweep from swept back to neutral 'middle of pills"
It seemed to gain a ton of initial turn in! Like way to much. I tried to tune it out w/expo, dual rate and finally turned down servo speed to 70% but nothing felt right.
I see all the other brand buggies running lt.blue rears, way heavier rear springs than I feel I can use on this because I will lose even more rear traction. I went back to lt.blue front/kyo yellow rear to try and gain rear traction and lose turn in.
That last sentence made me question my thinking about turn in... If I run real soft rear and real stiff front, would initial turn in get even more aggressive? like running a really stiff front sway bar does. It makes for twitchy aggressive steering but will add a push mid to exit. I couldn't tell if my car had a mid corner push because the initial was so aggressive, I could oversteer from the wind blowing.
I'm beginning to question the CSI pistons... I'm up to 45/37.5 in the heat,from the 27.5/20 recommended, it feels good by pushing down but if I drop it from 10 inches of the bench, it bottoms hard. Front and rear. I have AE 8x1.3's, are they any different than the KYO one's?
I want to apologize for the long a$$ post and being all over the place but I want to make this buggy work. Need some expert advise. BTW, I have 1.5 r block and +2mm hex's coming w/a bunch of other goodies.
1) what csi pistons are you running? I am running vport blues with 27 front and 25 rear. kyosho lt blue up front and kyosho orange in the back. car does not bottom out if I drop it at that height. I tried lt blue in the back but the car bounces too much in rough sections. I try to record the car so I can look and see if the rear tires are leaving the ground. Lt blues and it definitely was .

2) the front +2mm hubs work well, I like them

3) I wouldn't put anything lower than 7 in the middle diff. Unloads on the front tires too much.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 12:01 PM
  #8036  
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I am running 2.8mm bars front and rear. The 2.6mm was really good as was the 2.5mm front and rear. I like the 2.8mm the best so far.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 12:12 PM
  #8037  
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Originally Posted by bcjoldbq
I am finding the same thing with a softer setup: green springs/35wt/1.3x8/2.5 bar on both ends. Never liked the K-springs, made the car seem real lazy.

Also have 5-7-3, want to try 5-10-3 and 5-10-5. My track is low to medium traction, dusty.

What swaybars do you consider heavy? Are you in the 2.8 or 3.0 range?
I like the 5-7-3. I settled on that and really like it. Too heavy in the center makes the car lunge off corners too hard and push. easy to drive but just wasnt fast on my local track. I managed to tame the car through suspension and now it is very easy to drive but crazy fast around the track. Tons of cornerspeed.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 12:35 PM
  #8038  
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Originally Posted by streetsports
Because it also cleans any grease or oil out of the bearing...and then the tiny bit of oil it adds evaporates away. Use bearing oil or grease...its the same reason why you aren't supposed to use wd40 on any type of bearing (automotive, hobby etc).

What would you recommend to get the water out of bearings after cleaning? Something i can do without disasembling every bearing.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 01:31 PM
  #8039  
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Originally Posted by dmunseyautotech
I should have my rear toe plate on by tuesday so I should be able to give you some input next time we race. I went with a lighter rear spring than you run. Mine is pretty good for my driving style so hoping the extra toe makes it better.
I ordered a half dozen tekno springs to try out as well.
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Old 07-22-2013 | 01:37 PM
  #8040  
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Crc6-56 spray entire car. It will not delute the oil or wash it away will not leave as greasy a resido as wd-40 and keeps dirt from sticking .
Get it from Napa (probably have to order it ) its definitely worth its weight in gold . its made to clean /protect watercraft after u ride /winterize. But it has many great Rc application s also.
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