I am looking for a hight quality screw kit containing a set of all screws. Any ideas? Any good and/or bad experiences?

/Birger

+ 2 on the motor mount, center diff, drive shafts

Hey Tekno, what are the chances that you will come out with CVD boots to the hubs. Looking at AE and Serpent, that's really the only thing i am jealous of. I would love to have those so I could grease them and then re-grease them. Not grease them, take them all apart and clean, re-assemble, then re-grease. I know its pretty low end on the totem pole....but it would be awesome

Ok Tekno E-Buggy drivers, I currently run the SCT410 and love it, I'm not the best but I've dropped my average lap times from 46s-32-33s consistently. My question to the more seasoned guys is it a night and day difference when driving the E-buggy in comparison to a Short Course (as far as technical skill)? I'm thinking about moving up to two classes but if the con's out weigh the pro's I'll probably just stick to Short Course.. Also, will the E-buggy be an endless money pit? Got it, electronics, a great couple of 4s packs, but I'm talking more about tires.. Will I be dumping tons of money into tires or some other random thing that wears down more than anything else? Thanks in advance..

Tony screws have worked excellent for me.

If you are running on something that is high traction, since E-buggies get a lot more punch it is possible you will see a bit more tire wear.


I posted this on Tekin's thread but I think this could be answered right here.

For those that own a Tekin 1900Kv and have owned the Tekin 2050 Kv motor, how do they feel in comparison when you by hand rotate the shaft? Right now the two I have sitting here, the 2050Kv feels more notchy, then 1900Kv feels much less as I rotate it.

Not sure if that is common, just want to make sure.

EB48.2 List still needs stuff

EB48.2 - Check
Esc Viper -Check
Rx Futaba 614fs - Need
Motor VF8-Need
Pro9 Cap-Need
PRogauge-Check
Packs-Check
Servo- Check
Transponder-Check
Novak Mod 1 pinions 15t-20t- Need
Tekno 8x1.3 piston - Need
Kyosho Springs Blue F/Orange R-Check
tekno Hubs front and Rear 1mm and 2mm- Need
6mm RCPROPLUS Supra X Gold Bullet Polarised Battery Connectors- Need
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._5_pairs_.html

JConcepts Finnisher Tekno EB48 Body -Need
Tekno Front Arms-Need
TKR5253 - Tekno RC Aluminum Servo Horn-Need

I'm I Missing anything People?

E-Buggy in general is harder to drive consistently than short course. You have to be smooth and not over power the track everywhere. It is a lot of fun though. An E-Buggy will have more initial cost to get going but after that it doesn't cost a lot more than short course. The buggy tires will be a bit more expensive, but you won't be replacing bodies all the time.

I'd say the e-buggy is more twitchy, nimble and responsive compared to the shortcourse. It's a class that will make you a better driver. IMO e-buggy is all about consistency and barely about trying to be agressive and fast. I generally run 34 sec laps with no mistakes in my sct410 and about 32's in my e-buggy. The thing is, i'm driving my sct really hard while my e-buggy is on cruise control. After driving my e-buggy with my sct back to back, the sct feels much easier to drive and feels like i can push it a lot harder.

Costs of e-buggy will mainly be tires. My local track is low-med traction and a set of soft cityblocks will last me about a 6 race weekends. Comparing, i can get about 8 race weekends on a set of soft cityblocks in 4wd sct. It's not bad, but there is a little more wear in e-buggy.

shock shafts, hd servo saver spring, and hingepins.

Fronts only?
TKR6004 – Shock Shafts (front
or both
TKR6017 – Shock Shafts (rear???

TKR5101X – Servo Saver Spring--This don't come with the update kit?


These TKR5034 – Hinge Pins (outer, rear)?
or
These TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)

Thank you sir..

Will order some more stuff later today after the track.

Thanks guys for the input.. Looks like ill be joining the Tekno E Buggy class at the end of the year..

You wont regret it. The best way I can describe it is like this: SCT is like racing a street car at the track, E-buggy is like racing F1 but with jumps. The buggy does everything better than the truck, but you can get yourself into trouble with it if you dont drive smooth and be easy with the power.

Its a lot of fun, still trying to find some tires that last.

My mistake, the eb48.2 kit comes with the updated spring. You'll want inner hingepins (they fit front and rear).

Also, i , meant front shock shafts.

IMO just spend the exta $10 and get the outer rear pins and shock shafts, you never know.

You will love the EB48 mate and as I have seen on your posts in the SCT thread you use current limiter well use it again for the 1/8th.

95% of people have to much current and they say its loose in the rear but I have been down at 50% current on a 1900kv motor and the thing is planted I can get on power so hard out of the corner the eb48 is awesome and I don't have the extra toe block 1.5 etc.

You should run just enough current to make your hardest / biggest jump at the track right now that's 50 % and I am loving how smooth and easy they are to drive as we all know the 1/8th buggy class is way over powered but fun

Pro9 cap? If you mean a glitch buster for your servo-not necessary with a 4s setup and a vtx8 ESC. That thing will drive any servo no worries.

Also-not sure where your at but I think amain is selling the same rc proplus connectors for a bit cheaper.

Do i need a cap with my rx8 gen 2 and savox1256 on 4s?

Anyone looking for an eb48 new unbuilt kit for cheap let me know.