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If you've had to go that extreme with the rollbars you have another problem.

NOBODY runs without a rear roll bar as it effects the transition of the car.

Post your setup so others can have a look and make sure you fill in as much information as possible.

Skiddins

just a quick one,if i move the front camber link to the shortest hole from middle what can i expect to happen?

TQ'd, won, and set a new personal best at the track today. I've basically been running EA's Snowbirds setup but with a front spool and some minor fluid changes. I feel like it is the best 17.5/stock carpet setup to begin with. If you need a starting point USE IT. The setup is also good in mod with just a spring and droop change. We've also had great luck with the setup in VTA with 2.9/2.7 springs.

In other words, there's a reason it won Snowbirds

Just asked the same exact question today. In a way it controls the speed of the roll left to right/right to left, or the amount of roll in a corner. With shorter links it will finish its roll faster than with long links.
Today I put thicker bars on my car 1.5 front,1.3 rear and had my best run yet.
Usually around 27-28 laps fastest lap 9.6.
I didn't break my fast lap but consistently hit my fast lap and avg around 10 seconds with 30 laps, TQ was 32 5.06 or something.
In all the change made a huge difference for my driving style and would definitely recommend to try it

Here you go. I started with Basic Set up for asphalt as recommended by Xray.
Then I kept making adjustments...

I marked the wrong pistons... I have the four hole pistons.

Hmmm, I've never tried droop settings like that.

We all hate traction rolling! Like skiddins said, you gotta put the rear sway bar back on for sure. Here's a few things to do: Go back to the 1.4 or even 1.3 front bar. Go mid or even long upper links (to reduce camber gain) and 2mm inner shims. Reduce front static camber to 1.0. Lay your front shocks down to the second hole from the inside. Reduce rear droop to 5 or more (to reduce forward weight transfer on entry). I'd probably go with 2.5 rear springs. Go back to 1.1 - 4 hole pistons and 350 all around. You could even increase the front track width .75 with shims or option hexes. Lower your body and ride height as much as legally possible.
Basically, to avoid grip roll you have to let the car roll more freely in the corners. I know it sounds backwards but, many of us have gone through this and it's the only solution. Hope this helps.

I am not the guy with traction rolling problem. My car was too loose. Oversteering coming out of a turn.

Right, TT Vert was the traction rolling guy. Well hopefully it helps someone...

I looked at the set up sheets posted by the winning people and what I noticed is some people have stiffer rear end than the front which seems crazy to me. This lead me to think that the fast people will be fast no matter how the car handles and they will adjust their driving style to make the best out of the given setup.

Use the 1.2 rear toe shim instead of the .75 shim, if that locks the rear end in to much you can go to a 1mm shim.

That will increase the rear toe. Is that what you are recommending?
3.0° -> 3.5° ?

It looks like you probably had an issue with loose on power, but in trying to solve it you've gone too far.

Is it as if when you come of of a corner, you start to straighten up and apply power and the car almost wants to keep turning?