Remember , lighter means you can run lower .....


This Lighter theory ?

Its edge ?

A heavier truck has to run at a higher ride height thus has less steering, traction & more roll ...

I run mine the heavy way (ie. Exotek chassis, RC Shox center diff, etc.) because I run on a 1/8 bumpy/loose outdoor track...

Your ultralight theory is interesting though.

I'm considering trying 550 can to add weight.

Jordan
out doors would run higher then 19.5 mm


If you try ?

Also would consider switching to the blue rear spring ...

Totally agree with this direction. When Cameron Kellogg was successfully running this truck he ran a 2 pole 5.5 540 with a fan, and I think I remember him saying his truck was right around 94 to 95 oz. If you have it now down in the sub 5.5lb range, a nice torquey 2 pole sounds like it would be the ticket.

Pro4 all the way for me. I tried the reedy 4.5 550 for 2 batteries and hated the way my truck drove especially while jumping it felt retarded, nose high always. Put the pro4 back in and I was back to driving better than ever. The 4.5 works excellent in my scte. Everyone is different, I know the 4.5 is a beast but I didnt like it in my FT SC10 4X4.

It stretched but it's not the only problem my front diff is toast jumping teeth

I used a first gen Leo sphere and ran a fan with 4600 tekin

Had a weird occurrence last night with my SC10 4x4 and was needing input.
Setup right now is a RCshox diff with 6pins and 5k wt in front and back diffs. I was running it last Saturday during the day in 80+ degree and it ran flawlessly and was landing jumps clean. Go to last night and a cold front came threw to make it 40 degrees out. The truck couldn't even hit a step up without acting nuts, and it was uncontrollable. I went from the smoothest truck in the pack to embarrassed in a 4 day span at the same track.

My questions are: does the cold effect the truck that much, or is it just time for fresh dif oil and the weather was a coincidence?
Bought the truck here and the previous owner had just changed the oil. It has been through 30+ packs between practice and racing. There are traces of oil coming from the outdrive especially in the rear. I think I know the answer but was wondering if anybody experienced this and it will be fine when it warms back up.

40 degrees is a BIG temp change, not only for diff oil, but shock oil too.

I know a few guys around here that have 2 full sets of shocks and diffs because you never know from one day to the next if you are going to be sweating or shivering on the drivers stand....

Can't say that's ALL your problem, but that is a BIG change in temp....

+1 . I would look more at the shock oil first based on what the poster is saying for sure.

It was 40 wt front, 35 wt back with 2 stage pistons. I guess it was a learning experience as it will be back in the 80s by the end of the week. Shocks feel real sluggish in the cold basement now that you mention it.

I take it RC Shox 2 stages?

Outdoors I was down to under 30W Losi front and and rear on my SC10 4x4 at the time with the 2 stages. So i can imagine how that must have felt in the cold lol.

Back in my XXT days when the track had no heat I would use a hair dryer to warm up the arms and shocks and tires sice the a-arms were so fragile in 25deg temps. My buddy and I were just talking about being out there at four seasons with ice crystals on the track in 1995 lol. We were die hards back then. But the hair dryers work. Used to use to warm up cold nitro engines also. This might work for you, try it out.

Yup RC Shox. I bought fq06's 4x4 the note he had about running outdoors was to throw the 2 stages on and add 5 wt to the oil. Figured he knew the truck better than I do. I have some Losi 32.5 wt, you suggest I try that next time I swap oils or the problem continues?

Its going to warm up in the next few days again anyway so I have another question.
Which would be better for a small to med size outdoor track, the Tacon 4 pole 4800kv I have been using or a Tekin Redline SC4X 5.5T that I just picked up cheap and have yet to use?