Tks for the tips I will try the heavy sway bar thinking Thursday night . I actually wasnt running a front sway bar might have been a little of my issue ...
Waiting for my second kit to come in this week . got all the aluminium goodies to go on it .

Shortening camber links will increase camber gain... raising the outer or lowering the inner pivot of the camber link will raise the roll center which will decrease roll.

That is true. Shortening them in relation to the arm also reduces roll. Longer links make the car roll more. This works well on wider platforms as they are trying to get the cars to roll more as the car will fight itself trying to roll as the weight of one side will counter balance the other side. The closer the weight is to the centerline, the more freely the car rolls. Kind of like walking a high wire. Long pole, easier to stay standing. Hold a pencil and you are S.O.L. .lol

What sometimes is hard to understand is that as your camber link pivot spacing decreases vs. the lower arm pivot spacing,yes it increases camber gain as the 2 are swinging different arcs but it also creates a bind. This bind is what decreases roll and you really wont experience as much camber gain as expected because the cars suspension will not compress or roll as much as a longer link and now will drive the tire into the ground creating more traction to that wheel. If you lower the inboard or raise the outboard pivot, roll is reduced but weight transfer to the tire is reduced and will actually loosen up that end of the car and reduce traction. I lower the camber link on the tower when I want to reduce side bite and raise it to increase it. But if the car rolls too much, I shorten the link and/or go to heavier sway bars. I hope that makes sense. I hate typing.

Can't wait for my eb48 to arrive from Amain. I took advantage of the tekno sale by picking up the buggy and a bunch of lightened tekno parts for my sct410 and eb48.

Not really like balancing on a high wire at all actually. Roll is about lateral thrust and balancing is about gravity... a person on a high wire has a pole they can move left and right to counterbalance. You can do this in racing but most if not all rules would consider that cheating with the exception of oval and motorcycle racing, boat racing, etc... how much your car rolls depends on it's roll center, center of gravity, weight, speed, etc..

The amount your car rolls is based on many variables. Chassis layout is 1st and foremost the biggest thing. All of your other adjustments are just that, adjustments. They help you manipulate how the chassis rolls around its roll center. A car with a wide weight placement absolutely rolls less than a car with a narrow weight placement off of centerline. Your roll center can be raised or lowered to control how easily the car rolls. but it always rolls around its center. as weight is moved further out from the roll center, each side has more leverage to counter balance the opposing side thus reducing roll. My high wire example is exactly the same idea and was used as an example to try to help with a visual. I can try all day long to convince you and probably will not succeed. All i can say is try it. I am not trying to hurt you guys here.

I was actually thinking this platform rolled less than my 8.2 . even without front swaybats it didn't seem to have a ton of role

Oh my, im just going to stop here. I dont want to get into a debate on this thread on this topic. It has lost any credibility already and just confused anyone who is looking to cure a loose car. I give you what i did to cure any loose issues i had and an explination in the most simple terms i could. At the end of the day, i am trying to help you guys,not hurt you. My car was a little loose when i started running it, i used all of the same adjustments explained and they did exactly as they should do. Onroad or offroad, they are all cars and all the same principals apply. They all have the same effect, just in onroad, it is more noticable due to the higher traction . That being said, my car handles great and is a top 3 car week in and week out in a field of 30 cars. Im not in need of any help with set up, im offering it. If you dont want to know what i do to make my car work flawlessly every race day, then i respect that. Good day.

I think you would need to go even lighter than sub 7...its extremely expensive and some people may not be able to pull it off (hotter weather areas) but IMO its a gigantic improvement (once you get the setup right). With Blair's DNC setup it handled like crap (but handled good with the heavy setup) and now with the door setup its simply awesome...and its cool seeing peoples face when they find out what's under the shell.
I'm honestly hoping it gets popular for indoors...if only someone would make shock tower protectors to save the track now.

But no matter what you'll need top notch batteries to pull it off consistently.

i'd love to try door's setup, but can't because NOBODY HAS THE FRICKIN ORANGE KYOSHO SPRINGS!!!!!!!!

Delta rc got them if your near antioch. That was last week though you might want to call ahead and check.

I appreciate your insight! I find myself fighting some handling conditions and your explanation makes sense to me so please continue to contribute! - It's appreciated brother! Besides- your providing the results of your tested handling changes. Some folks like giving you theory for sake of Internet mind-bullet battling. I know whose advise I would consider first.
Aaron

i'm going to be racing there saturday. are they at the store at the track or the other one? i haven't been there yet this year so i haven't been to the new store.

I used RED rears from Tekno..................................