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Old 06-19-2013 | 09:59 AM
  #7321  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
Velcro works very well. Make sure you slot the rear mount hole or it will get torn up quickly. I cut mine about 1/8" wider and 1/4" forward of the pin and all the way out the back. I should just cut the pin completely off the mount and be done with it.
Just take the rear body post off the car. You dont even need it if you are using velcro. I never even installed it on my eb48. No need for it at all.
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Old 06-19-2013 | 09:59 AM
  #7322  
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Default Traktion Drive/Elektri-Clutch System

is the traktion Drive/Elektri-Clutch system something that is worthwhile getting? It looks cool, but i haven't seen anyone actually running it at my track? any links to info on it or advantages or disadvantages of using it?

Thanks,
Justin
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Old 06-19-2013 | 10:26 AM
  #7323  
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Originally Posted by gocoogs
is the traktion Drive/Elektri-Clutch system something that is worthwhile getting? It looks cool, but i haven't seen anyone actually running it at my track? any links to info on it or advantages or disadvantages of using it?

Thanks,
Justin
If you drive nitro cars a lot, have nitro finger (blip instead of smooth throttle), then it will help you getting into electric world.
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Old 06-19-2013 | 11:25 AM
  #7324  
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
If you drive nitro cars a lot, have nitro finger (blip instead of smooth throttle), then it will help you getting into electric world.
This. ^^^^^^^ A few of the really fast nitro guys were using these on their e-buggies to help the throttle. They're used to constant blipping of the throttle as opposed to the smooth action electric drivers have. They said it smoothes the car out when you first give that initial punch of throttle, they also said it makes the car a lot less violent when you crash. (clutch absorbs the hit). I'd say if you run both nitro and electrics it would be a good investment. If you just drive electric, straight pinion is fine.
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Old 06-19-2013 | 03:16 PM
  #7325  
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After rebuilding my center diff I had an extremely tight spot that wouldn't go away even after a couple teardowns/rebuilds. I was able to resolve the issue by stacking two blue gaskets between the diff cup and spur gear instead of one - its smooth as butter after this was done.

Anyone else ever experience this?
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Old 06-19-2013 | 06:59 PM
  #7326  
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Originally Posted by suzukipro
After rebuilding my center diff I had an extremely tight spot that wouldn't go away even after a couple teardowns/rebuilds. I was able to resolve the issue by stacking two blue gaskets between the diff cup and spur gear instead of one - its smooth as butter after this was done.

Anyone else ever experience this?
Let me know how the double seal works out, I have one thats the same way and I have contemplated using the second seal to loosen it up. but was afraid it may cause too much clearance in the diff gear set
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Old 06-19-2013 | 07:08 PM
  #7327  
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Originally Posted by Bortzilla
I got my new body painted for the 8th scale E-nats!



Velcro is recommended (compared to body clips) to ensure longevity, correct?
Body looks great, nice way to spend your winnings.
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Old 06-19-2013 | 07:10 PM
  #7328  
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The tolerances are pretty tight with the gears in the diff. If you overtighten the screws it can pinch. I just replaced the diff gears with the latest gears and pins and that opened up the window of right. I can tighten the screws with an impact gun and still have a perfect diff now.
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Old 06-19-2013 | 07:34 PM
  #7329  
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Originally Posted by protc3
The tolerances are pretty tight with the gears in the diff. If you overtighten the screws it can pinch. I just replaced the diff gears with the latest gears and pins and that opened up the window of right. I can tighten the screws with an impact gun and still have a perfect diff now.
I have the updated replacement gearset still in the package as I wanted to wait until the stock parts failed before I repaced them. The two gasket setup seems to be fine with no leaks or issues so far....

I'll report back after it sees the race track this weekend.
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Old 06-19-2013 | 09:25 PM
  #7330  
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What size pinion gear should I use for a tekin 2050kv motor for a 26 second lap time track.
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Old 06-19-2013 | 10:05 PM
  #7331  
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Originally Posted by masin14
What size pinion gear should I use for a tekin 2050kv motor for a 26 second lap time track.
16 or 17
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Old 06-20-2013 | 07:13 AM
  #7332  
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Well UPS say my kit is out for delivery and the HW motor/ESC combo I ordered is out for delivery also, think I know what I'm doing this evening

I need to get a few little things still like servo horn ect. but I'm not sure what pinion gear I should get with 1800kv/4s combo I will run. My local track the buggies do 21sec laps. Was thinking about a 16 or 17, is this good?
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Old 06-20-2013 | 07:37 AM
  #7333  
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Would it be possible for tekno to post more " East Coast Setups" ? Most of the setups are from California. High bite tracks, indoor tracks. Just not that kind of track in Pennsylvania. Outdoor, loose situations. Currently working on the Curtis door Setup with 7k in the middle but I am sure that it has a lot of room for improvement. Car was really loose, shocks were kinda difficult to get right. On the indoor track it was good but on the outdoor it is just a mess. Getting slaughtered by the heavier cars. They seem to be able to hold more corner speed, manipulate the rough sections at higher speeds and they don't get thrown around as much. Most of the setup sheets on the tekno site are from Cal. Thanks in advance . o...btw. Currently running csi vport blue pistons too. I have had the car about a month and I absolutely love it but my first impressions are that it is better suited for tight indoor tracks. Any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by rythby; 06-20-2013 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 06-20-2013 | 08:56 AM
  #7334  
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Originally Posted by merkyworks
Well UPS say my kit is out for delivery and the HW motor/ESC combo I ordered is out for delivery also, think I know what I'm doing this evening

I need to get a few little things still like servo horn ect. but I'm not sure what pinion gear I should get with 1800kv/4s combo I will run. My local track the buggies do 21sec laps. Was thinking about a 16 or 17, is this good?
I run 19T on a 1900kv motor and 21 on a 1700kv motor, but my track is a little larger (28-29 second laps.) Id say 19-20T is a good place to start.
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Old 06-20-2013 | 11:44 AM
  #7335  
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Originally Posted by jhautz
I run 19T on a 1900kv motor and 21 on a 1700kv motor, but my track is a little larger (28-29 second laps.) Id say 19-20T is a good place to start.
wow that high, would think I need lower with my small track size
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