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Old 04-30-2013 | 06:46 PM
  #6061  
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Haha thats what I thought. I could buy a 1/10 scale 4wd buggy right now.but I really want to get into.one of these. Cant find any used lol.
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Old 04-30-2013 | 07:25 PM
  #6062  
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Originally Posted by Matt Howard
11, there's nothing that matches driving a good 1/8 E buggy
To be honest if u don't have a Ebuggy all of them r fun to drive . I ran every class but 1/8th last summer . and i have drove 5 different buggys that others race and enjoyed every one of them .
Found me a good buy on the Ae car and haven't been disappointed at all... But im highly impressed with the layout of the tekno . seems much more efficient .
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Old 04-30-2013 | 07:53 PM
  #6063  
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Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard
You also pee sitting down! 2650!!! Go big!!! Lol
I do love re-glueing tires

Did you get that buggy outdoors yet?
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Old 04-30-2013 | 09:45 PM
  #6064  
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I think I might have just found the reason my motor temperature is higher than others:


*just tested the rev, 32200 @ 16.8v, so motor is fine.
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Old 04-30-2013 | 09:48 PM
  #6065  
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Whoa! How long has it been like that?
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Old 05-01-2013 | 05:42 AM
  #6066  
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
I think I might have just found the reason my motor temperature is higher than others:


*just tested the rev, 32200 @ 16.8v, so motor is fine.
Everyone has been notching them to clear the wheels when you run lots of droop.
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Old 05-01-2013 | 10:17 AM
  #6067  
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Originally Posted by Genebaby
Whoa! How long has it been like that?
Since I got the car... This is my first set of tire.

Originally Posted by Slotmachine
Everyone has been notching them to clear the wheels when you run lots of droop.
big outdoor rough track, plus I like full droop in the rear. Didn't expect it...
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Old 05-01-2013 | 10:25 AM
  #6068  
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Default APE Tekno shock tools are back!

Hey Guys,

It's been a while but I finally finished another batch of Tekno shock tools. They are at the anodizing shop now and will be ready to ship on Friday. They are available for pre-order on the web store now.

I made a couple changes to the design. I removed the small ridge around the perimeter to make them a little cleaner looking and less harsh on the fingers. I also opened up the smaller 17mm hex by a couple thousandths.

Thanks,


Chris
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Old 05-01-2013 | 10:34 AM
  #6069  
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That could certainly cause some problems. Did you find the car nosing over in the air?


Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
I think I might have just found the reason my motor temperature is higher than others:

SNIP...

*just tested the rev, 32200 @ 16.8v, so motor is fine.
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Old 05-01-2013 | 10:47 AM
  #6070  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
That could certainly cause some problems. Did you find the car nosing over in the air?
to be honest no... I usually brake hard in the air as soon as it takes off.
so that I can power up the car a little before it lands.
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Old 05-01-2013 | 10:54 AM
  #6071  
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
to be honest no... I usually brake hard in the air as soon as it takes off.
so that I can power up the car a little before it lands.
Let us know how Ur drive tran hold up to this style of driving. Has to reek havok on out drives& cvds
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Old 05-01-2013 | 11:06 AM
  #6072  
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
Let us know how Ur drive tran hold up to this style of driving. Has to reek havok on out drives& cvds
One of the tracks I run on requires that style of driving on the bigger jumps. It has not caused me any premature parts wear.
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Old 05-01-2013 | 11:19 AM
  #6073  
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
Let us know how Ur drive tran hold up to this style of driving. Has to reek havok on out drives& cvds
Because of the weird motor temperature, 10F higher than Chris even if he's using 1 gear larger pinion. I rebuilt and inspected the whole drivetrain last weekend.
All outdrives are still in perfect condition, holding up really well.
most of the dog bone pins are perfect as well.
Only the center rear dog bone's pins shows some wear. Though it's a common issue, I'll just change the pins later.

The driving style is fairly common I believe, learned that from watching Ryan Lutz's video.
Basically make it nose dive a bit when in the air, this will:
1. help landing on all four wheels when touching downhill part.
2. create more air down force to get it back to ground quicker.
3. you can power up before landing, shift the weight to the rear, and let longer rear shock to absorb most of the impact energy.
If you nose up while landing, you'll either need to brake/lift to bring the nose down, or you will wheelie later? not the best idea especially if the straightway is there after a jump.
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Old 05-01-2013 | 11:48 AM
  #6074  
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu
Because of the weird motor temperature, 10F higher than Chris evs using 1 gear larger pinion. I rebuilt and inspected the whole drivetrain last weekend.
All outdrives are still in perfect condition, holding up really well.
most of the dog bone pins are perfect as well.
Only the center rear dog bone's pins shows some wear. Though it's a common issue, I'll just change the pins later.

The driving style is fairly common I believe, learned that from watching Ryan Lutz's video.
Basically make it nose dive a bit when in the air, this will:
1. help landing on all four wheels when touching downhill part.
2. create more air down force to get it back to ground quicker.
3. you can power up before landing, shift the weight to the rear, and let longer rear shock to absorb most of the impact energy.
If you nose up while landing, you'll either need to brake/lift to bring the nose down, or you will wheelie later? not the best idea especially if the straightway is there after a jump.
Well I just might have learned something today. . I've ran Ebuggy just this season and havnt been on a layout that requires this . but the down force theory to land jumps shorter is a great idea.
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Old 05-01-2013 | 01:49 PM
  #6075  
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
Well I just might have learned something today. . I've ran Ebuggy just this season and havnt been on a layout that requires this . but the down force theory to land jumps shorter is a great idea.
You can also go into a jump a bit faster and scrub speed with whips to take the jump faster, but still land at a controllable speed if you need to turn right after.

I generally am more consistent, so do better in the race, when I just keep it level and drive smooth. But, when I do nose downs, whips, and pull throttle landing in drifts my fast laps come out quite a bit faster...I'm just not Blair so I can't do that for the full race without crashing a lot.
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