Team Associated B4.2 Thread
#4621
Less Caster
• Decreases straight-line stability
• Increases off-power steering at corner entry
• Increases suspension efficiency
More Caster
• Increases straight-line stability
• Decreases off-power steering at corner entry
• Makes the car more stable through bumpy track conditions
• Decreases straight-line stability
• Increases off-power steering at corner entry
• Increases suspension efficiency
More Caster
• Increases straight-line stability
• Decreases off-power steering at corner entry
• Makes the car more stable through bumpy track conditions
Caster
More caster aids stability, and handling in bumpy sections.
Less caster increases steering drastically. Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.
More caster aids stability, and handling in bumpy sections.
Less caster increases steering drastically. Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.
#4623
#4624
some more info from another site:
http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...tuning-caster/
http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...tuning-caster/
Navigation Arrow Tuning with Caster
More Caster will make your car easier to drive. It will also make it more stable on the straights and through bumpy sections.
Less Caster will give the car more front bite into corners and make it react quicker to steering inputs. Less Caster will also make your car feel a little more twitchy.
More Caster will make your car easier to drive. It will also make it more stable on the straights and through bumpy sections.
Less Caster will give the car more front bite into corners and make it react quicker to steering inputs. Less Caster will also make your car feel a little more twitchy.
Last edited by Cain; 04-30-2013 at 10:41 AM.
#4625
Try to find the FT caster blocks. They'll have two ballstud holes instead of three. The two hole blocks have the hinge pin hole drilled and they fit tighter giving less slop.
#4626
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,412
On power steering is good. Turn in is good. Traction is good. I just want a little more steering Mid/Corner exit off power. Every time I try to tune for this my rear end tries to spin out on exit. How can I accomplish this while keeping the rear end in check?
#4627
What conditions and what tires?
#4628
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,412
Keep in mind I just need a subtle change. The car is really good. I race on medium/high bite clay indoors. I like to run Gold Barcodes front and rear. Closed cell or open depending on the day. Just pushing a teeny bit on exit. Every time I make a change its just too far and I cant square up on exit. Thanks for the help.
Front
Shocks: 1/0
Link: 1A
Washers 1 blue 1mm washer 1 silver .030
Ride: 24mm
Bump: 2mm
Caster: 30
Springs: Black
Oil: 32.5 2x1.6
Camber: 1
Limiter: 3
Rear
Shocks: 1/0
Springs: Green
Oil: 30 2x1.6
Link: 1/B, A HUBS
Washers: 0
Wheelbase: Middle
Toe: 3
Squat: 2
Camber: 1
Limiter: 2
Ride: 24
B44 rear arms, ballast weight. Shorty pack all the way forward. No other weight added. Run in stock buggy with 69 spur.
Front
Shocks: 1/0
Link: 1A
Washers 1 blue 1mm washer 1 silver .030
Ride: 24mm
Bump: 2mm
Caster: 30
Springs: Black
Oil: 32.5 2x1.6
Camber: 1
Limiter: 3
Rear
Shocks: 1/0
Springs: Green
Oil: 30 2x1.6
Link: 1/B, A HUBS
Washers: 0
Wheelbase: Middle
Toe: 3
Squat: 2
Camber: 1
Limiter: 2
Ride: 24
B44 rear arms, ballast weight. Shorty pack all the way forward. No other weight added. Run in stock buggy with 69 spur.
#4629
Keep in mind I just need a subtle change. The car is really good. I race on medium/high bite clay indoors. I like to run Gold Barcodes front and rear. Closed cell or open depending on the day. Just pushing a teeny bit on exit. Every time I make a change its just too far and I cant square up on exit. Thanks for the help.
Front
Shocks: 1/0
Link: 1A
Washers 1 blue 1mm washer 1 silver .030
Ride: 24mm
Bump: 2mm
Caster: 30
Springs: Black
Oil: 32.5 2x1.6
Camber: 1
Limiter: 3
Rear
Shocks: 1/0
Springs: Green
Oil: 30 2x1.6
Link: 1/B, A HUBS
Washers: 0
Wheelbase: Middle
Toe: 3
Squat: 2
Camber: 1
Limiter: 2
Ride: 24
B44 rear arms, ballast weight. Shorty pack all the way forward. No other weight added. Run in stock buggy with 69 spur.
Front
Shocks: 1/0
Link: 1A
Washers 1 blue 1mm washer 1 silver .030
Ride: 24mm
Bump: 2mm
Caster: 30
Springs: Black
Oil: 32.5 2x1.6
Camber: 1
Limiter: 3
Rear
Shocks: 1/0
Springs: Green
Oil: 30 2x1.6
Link: 1/B, A HUBS
Washers: 0
Wheelbase: Middle
Toe: 3
Squat: 2
Camber: 1
Limiter: 2
Ride: 24
B44 rear arms, ballast weight. Shorty pack all the way forward. No other weight added. Run in stock buggy with 69 spur.
#4631
#4633
from what I recall when I ran barcode fronts versus scrubs fronts, the scrubs gave me more front bite, I even went with the barcode fronts as the scrub fronts gave me too much steering in comparison to barcode rears (they were great with switches though). Not sure if you open to trying a different front tire.
Have you tried less shim(s) under the front tower ball stud? In general if I felt the rear end was good, I played with the shims under the ball stud on the front tower to adjust how much bite I was seeing up there. It may be that little change could give you what you need but still keep the rear feeling "right" for lack of a better word.
Just some thoughts, could be way off base here but figure the change is quick if you haven't already tried it.
Have you tried less shim(s) under the front tower ball stud? In general if I felt the rear end was good, I played with the shims under the ball stud on the front tower to adjust how much bite I was seeing up there. It may be that little change could give you what you need but still keep the rear feeling "right" for lack of a better word.
Just some thoughts, could be way off base here but figure the change is quick if you haven't already tried it.



4Likes