For diffs it would be cool if there was a torque rating for screwing them down, and a corresponding wrench of course.

It's one of those variables people can get wrong and have trouble with.

As my first build I over tightened and they were too notchy, then the centre leaked as I probably overfilled.

I noticed a little oil around the spot where the spur meets the diff case. I used ae green slime on the o-rings and outdrives, but it still leaked after that, so for my last re-build, i decided to leave it off, that way i know it's the actual diff leaking, and not the outdrive grease flinging out.
My front diff is fine with no leaks, but it's the only diff that had no notch in one of the gears. I'll run it this weekend and see if it leaks. If it does, i will either buy the sct410 diffs, or just get new gears. If feel like it have the diff screws nice and tight, but not insanely tight. I can feel the gears meshing, but it's nothing i would consider "notchy".

i didn't have any diff leak issues,i got some oil in the screw holes of the center diff and since they go all the way through that oil came out. i just re-did my diffs tonight after 8 packs and the oil was a bit dark but no metal was present,it is a 1st batch buggy so i wanted to check them. i did install 1 case shim instead of 2 when i put it together. the drive train seems quieter....

I just got my slightly used EB48 today and was trying to figure out how you fit a pair of 2S batteries under the body....Seem to not fit...

If anyone is running a hobbywing 4168, how did you manage to wire it neatly? It comes prewired with bullets. Not happy about that.

Here you go...

AE Green Slime or GMK Shock Snot is NOT the lubricant to use on the diff o-rings and outdrive cups. For the diffs, use Mobil 1 grease (or a similar inferior grease... ). Use liberally. The Tekno diffs are very high quality - built right, they shouldn't leak.

Get rid of the factory wires

Could you also turn them on their side?

Not perfect, but it fits with plenty of room to spare.

Actually, they are shorter up on their side....Roughly 1.75" tall side by side and 1.875" stacked on top of each other....So how is a pair of 2s batteries supposed to work and fit under the body?

for you battery setup, are you using a spacer or some sort of guard to keep the top back from sliding into the bottom ones wires?

Depending on how the connectors are on teh pack, its possible but you need to make sure the connector "output" assuming bullet style is flush, or, if the wires are hardwired into the pack, they can laydown flush with the battery case. There are packs that are like this as they have the cutout where the wire comes out on the top and the side or the case so the wire can move around.

If you have packs though that the wires only come out of the "top" with opening to come out of the side as I described for laying the wire flat, I don't think it would work, or, you may need to run the wires to the mudguard side for some room, maybe even trim the tray.

This is basically what i saw as issues when I was looking at a 2 pack setup.


So, here is my question

For those running the vehicle in a 2S configuration, what is the running weight you are seeing assuming heavy electronics and what mods have you done recently to make minimum weight if you track requires it?

I am considering doing this with my EB48, set it up basically the same as my SCT410 but use the Tekin HD motor of something similar in power, can then just fully standardize on one battery type.

I got to run my EB48 up against some of the best drivers in the Northeast US this past weekend (Anthony Mazzara, Gunnar Rieck, Dan Ross, Alex Miller, Geoff Arnold, etc.). My goal was to make it into the A-main...qualified 7th out of 31..mission accomplished!

Here is the video of the A-main for your viewing pleasure:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hL3sQCLqXiQ

I have the baby blue/yellow EB48 w/ yellow wheels and yellow wing (I don't get much camera time as the big guns were running circles around me, lol) and came in 8th. The other EB48 (white, blue, pink paint) took 3rd.

The buggy drove incredibly, but my driving skills slowed it down. The track was really blown out and rutted when our main was ran, but it handled the conditions pretty well. I probably should of switched from gridirons to impacts for the main, but oh well...I was just happy to be running with the big guns.

Here is the results sheet:
http://tandlracing.com/files/1113/67...ggy_A-Main.pdf

http://radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=268782

Okay Tekno, time for you to give us an E-Truggy too!

Be very careful with that on Hobby Wing motors. Most, if not all, of their motors that are pre-wired cannot have the wires changed or shortened. The motor leads are part of the actual windings. I burned up two motors doing that before I figured out what the deal was.