Can you post a picture?

run the screw in from the underside of the servo horn,slide the linkage rod on the screw and secure it with a lock nut. space the other end so it is level, all done!!

Yes. this setup works . It works well and i really advise racers who wants to score a better lap time to try this setup and only to change from 6S to 4S to comply with racing rules.
those got the opinion that it will not work probably didn't try it or just want to keep in the safe side not to over heat, but as long as it's winter or below 75F outside temp using a 4S with such motor and gearing will work.. bashing on 6S for non racers or short races laps works too.

Okay so today was the first day I took my new eb48 out and lets say I need some help !!! I broke in the diffs that were crunchy, and no problems there. The buggy seems like it turns on a dime. My problem is I am using the tekin 1900kv and rx8 on stock linear settings. I purchased the 1900kv after reading all the forums and "everyone" saying to go with it. Well it is gutless I am using a 17t pinion gear. Do I need to tune it with the hotwire or use a different profile? My next problem is the suspension is way to soft it seems. I got the protek 6400mah battery and it was way to heavy...which is wierd because same battery austin blair is using. Anyways I purchased a few more of the smaller lighter 4100mah and the buggy still feels way to soft. I am driving on an outdoor track that is med size, jumps knee and waist high. 30ft double. What is the next stiffness in springs for the front and rear? or should I try running thicker oil all around? what has been working for everyone?

I missed out on the everyone response, lol. I would have told you the 2050 has more grunt to it versus the 1900 motor. That said, I would step up your pinion.

There is a nice spring chart on tekno's site. My eb48 actually has some nice X-ray springs on it, blue rears and grey-blue fronts that give it some really great response on high traction.

Thanks cain, I will up my pinion to 18t and I guess use a more aggressive throttle profile on the rx8 for the low end grunt. So the stock springs on the eb48 the yellows? Maybe I will get some of those xray springs, they use that nice hudy steel.

Try going up to the red rear springs (TKR6034) and down to the pink (TKR6035) or green (TKR6036) fronts. After further testing we've found that the buggy does really well with a stiffer rear spring a a slightly softer front. If you stay with that big 6400 pack I'd keep the stock front spring the same.

No prob. Don't be surprised you go up more in gearing.

A good rule I used back in the day when 1/8 electric started and still do is to gear to top out towards the end of the longest straight. from there, adjust your gearing based on temps and track feel. Got the general idea from the late Big Jim.

Don't be surprised you go up a lot.

thanks matt and cain, ordered a set of the xray progressive. Also got a red rear tekno spring and green front tekno spring. So the million dollar question is which is better progressive rate or straight rate springs? when I raced dirt bikes motorcross action always insisted straight rate was better because progressive would droop into the middle of the spring rate making the initial part unusable, is it the same with rc cars? one would think progressive rate sounds like a good idea...soft pillow for straights and hard for big jumps.

I will try that, right now on the longest straight the gearing is not fast enough. This is my first ever buggy, I am a new driver. I am guessing that why everyone said 1900kv. Wish I would have gone 2050kv. When I get better I will probably just get a new engine for it. On these 1900kv can I run some advance timing or anything else to make up for it in the meantime? Hey is that issue with the servo saver spring fixed? I had a ver 2 kit. I am scarred don't want to strip my $$$ servo

So you are topping out too soon? If so, step it up with a larger pinion. If you know gearing someone is using but not your tekno, you could use a top speed calculator and get an estimate to use for your gearing.

I wouldn't be surprised you go up a few teeth depending on how big the track is.

Yeah Cain I am topping out to soon, but not by much. I guess I will order a 19t and 20t pinion as well with those springs Does the tekin hotwire offer anything worth

Yeah Cain I am topping out to soon, but not by much. I guess I will order a 19t and 20t pinion as well with those springs Does the tekin hotwire offer anything worthwhile ?

honestly with any of the 1/8 systems, I never really found a benefit to messing with the timing, etc versus just upping the pinion size. The motors ran cool enough with a variety of pinion size changes. Not saying you may not see benefit, but I didn't.

For perspective on the 1900Kv motor, different car mind you, but I could easily do a 21 or 22T pinion using it with the RC8 on a 200Ft straight track back when I had one.

Have you ever driven an RC car on a track? If you have no experience with something, please don't give advice about it. That setup is way too much for a track. You would never be able to get up to full throttle with that setup on a track. Do you know what ripple current does to a speed control if you never get up to full throttle? Not to rain on your parade, but this car was designed for the track, not the street in front of your house, or the dunes.