2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
10-22-2012 | 06:03 PM
#3034
Im running a tekin 1900 rx8 i could use a little more top end on the straights im already at a 17 tooth, but for a battery im running a 20 run gens ace would a good 4s pack help enough and any good deals out there on 4s pack i was looking at that one on stormers home page
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-ROAR-Approved
10-22-2012 | 06:09 PM
#3035
Slightly off topic, but here's an ESC temp and performance question.
We recently decided to try a long race combining nitro and electric at a club race. It was going to be 20 minutes, but we decided just prior to make it only 15.
My electronics setup on the EB48 is a 5200mah/60c, Tekin T8 1900 w/18t, Castle MMP, Castle BEC for no-brand servo and rx.
I knew going into this that I would have to be easy on the throttle to attempt to make a 20 minute main, and even though it was now only 15 minutes, I went in with that mindset. So, I was generally conservative in getting on power and did more constant lower power instead of blips of power in portions of the track where I could. With about 7 or so minutes to go, just as the nitros were starting to pit, I noticed a lack of power. I couldn't get the punch to clear jumps I normally do, and had to alter my line. By the end of the race, I couldn't clear the 8th scale tripple anymore unless I had a run up to it (normally I can do it from about 2 and a half feet).
I figured the battery must've faded faster than I thought, or that I'd gotten some binding someplace during the run and gotten the motor way to hot. What I found though, was quite different. The motor came off at 130 and the battery at only 90...but the ESC was 170. I also took far less voltage out of the battery than I'd thought, as it was still at 7.84v.
The MMP is set to not do timing changes and generally fairly conservative (since everything was originally set up for all day practice runs...which I haven't had a chance to do yet...though I've had several runs of a full pack without much fading until the last 2 laps).
Any thoughts? Is this due to the change in driving style (which the EB48 really liked)? The esc fan was working and generally after a normal 6 or 8 minute run I'm at normal temperatures for the ESC and about 5-10 degrees warmer for the batt and motor.
We recently decided to try a long race combining nitro and electric at a club race. It was going to be 20 minutes, but we decided just prior to make it only 15.
My electronics setup on the EB48 is a 5200mah/60c, Tekin T8 1900 w/18t, Castle MMP, Castle BEC for no-brand servo and rx.
I knew going into this that I would have to be easy on the throttle to attempt to make a 20 minute main, and even though it was now only 15 minutes, I went in with that mindset. So, I was generally conservative in getting on power and did more constant lower power instead of blips of power in portions of the track where I could. With about 7 or so minutes to go, just as the nitros were starting to pit, I noticed a lack of power. I couldn't get the punch to clear jumps I normally do, and had to alter my line. By the end of the race, I couldn't clear the 8th scale tripple anymore unless I had a run up to it (normally I can do it from about 2 and a half feet).
I figured the battery must've faded faster than I thought, or that I'd gotten some binding someplace during the run and gotten the motor way to hot. What I found though, was quite different. The motor came off at 130 and the battery at only 90...but the ESC was 170. I also took far less voltage out of the battery than I'd thought, as it was still at 7.84v.
The MMP is set to not do timing changes and generally fairly conservative (since everything was originally set up for all day practice runs...which I haven't had a chance to do yet...though I've had several runs of a full pack without much fading until the last 2 laps).
Any thoughts? Is this due to the change in driving style (which the EB48 really liked)? The esc fan was working and generally after a normal 6 or 8 minute run I'm at normal temperatures for the ESC and about 5-10 degrees warmer for the batt and motor.
10-22-2012 | 06:26 PM
#3036
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 58
From: odessa fl
Slightly off topic, but here's an ESC temp and performance question.
We recently decided to try a long race combining nitro and electric at a club race. It was going to be 20 minutes, but we decided just prior to make it only 15.
My electronics setup on the EB48 is a 5200mah/60c, Tekin T8 1900 w/18t, Castle MMP, Castle BEC for no-brand servo and rx.
I knew going into this that I would have to be easy on the throttle to attempt to make a 20 minute main, and even though it was now only 15 minutes, I went in with that mindset. So, I was generally conservative in getting on power and did more constant lower power instead of blips of power in portions of the track where I could. With about 7 or so minutes to go, just as the nitros were starting to pit, I noticed a lack of power. I couldn't get the punch to clear jumps I normally do, and had to alter my line. By the end of the race, I couldn't clear the 8th scale tripple anymore unless I had a run up to it (normally I can do it from about 2 and a half feet).
I figured the battery must've faded faster than I thought, or that I'd gotten some binding someplace during the run and gotten the motor way to hot. What I found though, was quite different. The motor came off at 130 and the battery at only 90...but the ESC was 170. I also took far less voltage out of the battery than I'd thought, as it was still at 7.84v.
The MMP is set to not do timing changes and generally fairly conservative (since everything was originally set up for all day practice runs...which I haven't had a chance to do yet...though I've had several runs of a full pack without much fading until the last 2 laps).
Any thoughts? Is this due to the change in driving style (which the EB48 really liked)? The esc fan was working and generally after a normal 6 or 8 minute run I'm at normal temperatures for the ESC and about 5-10 degrees warmer for the batt and motor.
We recently decided to try a long race combining nitro and electric at a club race. It was going to be 20 minutes, but we decided just prior to make it only 15.
My electronics setup on the EB48 is a 5200mah/60c, Tekin T8 1900 w/18t, Castle MMP, Castle BEC for no-brand servo and rx.
I knew going into this that I would have to be easy on the throttle to attempt to make a 20 minute main, and even though it was now only 15 minutes, I went in with that mindset. So, I was generally conservative in getting on power and did more constant lower power instead of blips of power in portions of the track where I could. With about 7 or so minutes to go, just as the nitros were starting to pit, I noticed a lack of power. I couldn't get the punch to clear jumps I normally do, and had to alter my line. By the end of the race, I couldn't clear the 8th scale tripple anymore unless I had a run up to it (normally I can do it from about 2 and a half feet).
I figured the battery must've faded faster than I thought, or that I'd gotten some binding someplace during the run and gotten the motor way to hot. What I found though, was quite different. The motor came off at 130 and the battery at only 90...but the ESC was 170. I also took far less voltage out of the battery than I'd thought, as it was still at 7.84v.
The MMP is set to not do timing changes and generally fairly conservative (since everything was originally set up for all day practice runs...which I haven't had a chance to do yet...though I've had several runs of a full pack without much fading until the last 2 laps).
Any thoughts? Is this due to the change in driving style (which the EB48 really liked)? The esc fan was working and generally after a normal 6 or 8 minute run I'm at normal temperatures for the ESC and about 5-10 degrees warmer for the batt and motor.
10-22-2012 | 06:41 PM
#3037
When the battery tapers off hard and after not so long, the cells are on there way out. The ir of the cells is high and voltage drop off is drastic. After a 7 minute race, my voltage is right around 7.95 to 8 volts. If your ir is high, your peak voltage will drop off after a minute or so and will feel flat. This is common for inexpensive packs. You get what you pay for most of the time. Unless you get into some of that 100c nonsense.lol then you are paying for the changed label on a 60 or 65 c pack.
10-22-2012 | 06:47 PM
#3038
If your at 7.8 volts, its not the battery. Sounds like a motor or speedo issue.. Being the speedo is so hot, i would focus on it. Maybe go through the settings on it and make sure nothing is funky.
10-22-2012 | 07:21 PM
#3039
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 808
From: In a VAN down by the RIVER
Slightly off topic, but here's an ESC temp and performance question.
We recently decided to try a long race combining nitro and electric at a club race. It was going to be 20 minutes, but we decided just prior to make it only 15.
My electronics setup on the EB48 is a 5200mah/60c, Tekin T8 1900 w/18t, Castle MMP, Castle BEC for no-brand servo and rx.
I knew going into this that I would have to be easy on the throttle to attempt to make a 20 minute main, and even though it was now only 15 minutes, I went in with that mindset. So, I was generally conservative in getting on power and did more constant lower power instead of blips of power in portions of the track where I could. With about 7 or so minutes to go, just as the nitros were starting to pit, I noticed a lack of power. I couldn't get the punch to clear jumps I normally do, and had to alter my line. By the end of the race, I couldn't clear the 8th scale tripple anymore unless I had a run up to it (normally I can do it from about 2 and a half feet).
I figured the battery must've faded faster than I thought, or that I'd gotten some binding someplace during the run and gotten the motor way to hot. What I found though, was quite different. The motor came off at 130 and the battery at only 90...but the ESC was 170. I also took far less voltage out of the battery than I'd thought, as it was still at 7.84v.
The MMP is set to not do timing changes and generally fairly conservative (since everything was originally set up for all day practice runs...which I haven't had a chance to do yet...though I've had several runs of a full pack without much fading until the last 2 laps).
Any thoughts? Is this due to the change in driving style (which the EB48 really liked)? The esc fan was working and generally after a normal 6 or 8 minute run I'm at normal temperatures for the ESC and about 5-10 degrees warmer for the batt and motor.
We recently decided to try a long race combining nitro and electric at a club race. It was going to be 20 minutes, but we decided just prior to make it only 15.
My electronics setup on the EB48 is a 5200mah/60c, Tekin T8 1900 w/18t, Castle MMP, Castle BEC for no-brand servo and rx.
I knew going into this that I would have to be easy on the throttle to attempt to make a 20 minute main, and even though it was now only 15 minutes, I went in with that mindset. So, I was generally conservative in getting on power and did more constant lower power instead of blips of power in portions of the track where I could. With about 7 or so minutes to go, just as the nitros were starting to pit, I noticed a lack of power. I couldn't get the punch to clear jumps I normally do, and had to alter my line. By the end of the race, I couldn't clear the 8th scale tripple anymore unless I had a run up to it (normally I can do it from about 2 and a half feet).
I figured the battery must've faded faster than I thought, or that I'd gotten some binding someplace during the run and gotten the motor way to hot. What I found though, was quite different. The motor came off at 130 and the battery at only 90...but the ESC was 170. I also took far less voltage out of the battery than I'd thought, as it was still at 7.84v.
The MMP is set to not do timing changes and generally fairly conservative (since everything was originally set up for all day practice runs...which I haven't had a chance to do yet...though I've had several runs of a full pack without much fading until the last 2 laps).
Any thoughts? Is this due to the change in driving style (which the EB48 really liked)? The esc fan was working and generally after a normal 6 or 8 minute run I'm at normal temperatures for the ESC and about 5-10 degrees warmer for the batt and motor.
Food for thought: Your change in driving style was likely the cause of higher ESC temp... ESC' work best (most efficient) at full throttle, when you limit use of full throttle, you cause higher ESC temp. This is why ESC makers will tell you to gear down or get lower kv motor rather than limit throttle endpoint. As an example: I had a 1/18 truck with brushless system and Nimh batts; it would run pack after pack doing speed runs, jumps, burnouts and generally just tearing it up outside, and the temps were always about 130, on motor, ESC and battery. If I ran it in the house, where I could not use much full throttle, my motor and battery temps were about 20 - 30 degrees lower and the ESC temp would rise 20 - 30 degrees.
10-22-2012 | 07:37 PM
#3040
10-22-2012 | 07:55 PM
#3041
10-22-2012 | 08:07 PM
#3042
10-22-2012 | 08:13 PM
#3043
Suspended
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 484
7.8 at rest, but what was the voltage under load? If the batteries have gone flat, and the voltage is sagging the current draw will go up causing more heat. Either way something is up. Try one of your friends good packs and drive the same way. See what happens.
10-22-2012 | 08:25 PM
#3044
Well worth the 3ish hour trip from the SF bay area. And I am always impressed w/ A Main customer service. I went to the shop looking for a super short sensor wire to finish up the EB48 and without a thought the guy working tossed me one for free!
10-22-2012 | 08:47 PM
#3045
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 806
From: Manila, Philippines
Just raced last weekend and the car did very well even thought it was its first maiden race. I can push the car harder than my xray giving me good lap times. However, on one heat I got an issue where my rear pinion bearing (inner) blew up destroying the diff case. Crown and pinion still usable though. I just want to ask whether this was caused by me removing the center chassis brace cause I couldnt get the right mesh with the spur. Or the 5x11x4 bearing is just small and would require regular maintenance. But Over all I am happy with the EB 48