I am assuming the hexes just bolt on so you can use 17mm wheels. Then, possibly need body mounts unless using velcro?

Heres a link to sct410 hub extenders that turn an sct410 into a buggy
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5570-...gy-width-2pcs/
at the bottom of the page tekno provides a list of parts to complete the conversion - wing, bumper, body mounts, and hardware. All together its less than $100 to do the conversion.
To lighten the buggy further i used the optional tekno aluminum hardware kit, ceramic bearings and tekno lightweight diff outdrives and drive shaft. Oh and all of the tekno lightweight suspension and roll bar balls - this took alot of weight off.
Motor is the new pro4 hd 1850 and the battery is a protek 3100mah 4s

For a tight indoor track the benefit of a converted st410 over a EB48 is substantial. The stiffer black chassis helps the suspension work better and lowers the center of gravity. Also, for some reason the shorter suspension geometry of the sct410 arms is easier to drive. Barry Baker and most of the San Diego TEKNO guys race this indoors now. I think the draw back MIGHT be durability. I dont know yet how the thinner sct410 drivetrain will hold up to the 4s abuse and I think the extended hubs may put weird loads on the hub bearings so Ill keep an eye on them. The on track durability seems to NOT be affected though. The tekno pro drivers do NOT break more on track with the converted SCT410 converted which kind of surprised me.

I also want to test this side by side with my stock 7.6 lb eb48 on our local huge outdoor track. My guess is that the larger seemingly more durable eb48 will be better on our large blown out outdoor track, but I'm still curious. If the light buggy is better outdoors too I might sell me eb48. Then my short course and buggy will share parts like you mentioned. But I am extremely happy so far with my EB48 performance outdoors and the tekno drivers still run the eb48 outdoors so I doubt that will happen.

cool!

What are you seeing for runtimes with the 4S 3100 mah pack and that motor?

The part you need is two of these: TKR5570-17. You just swap the hubs then add the adapters. I tried the same thing except i added lightweight outdrives and diff couplers all around as well as a lightweight chassis, center dogbone, and motor mounts.

I ran it with a pro4 4000kv on 2s and a t8 1900kv on 4s and it was great. Next step would have been the pro4hd on a small 4s but i would have had to buy both of those. Maybe i'll try it at a later date.

I feel that a 540 and maybe a 550 motor would make a lot more sense in this setup. I just don't know how other racers in a 1/8 class would feel about running a super light buggy where i race.

I did find that the geometry is off from normal 1/8 primarily the steering since the wheel turns more to the inside of the car. I increased ackerman to make up for that which helped. The car had tons of lateral traction. I think with all that lightening i could have changed a lot more before converting back to SCT width/wheels.

I ended up breaking the rear inner hinge pin retainer on an off-camber landing on the rear. I'd put aluminum in but i feel it would negate all the work put in to lightening it. I wish i knew how the weight of aluminum vs plastic hinge pin retainers compared.

Honestly I havnt even run it yet. I built this car last week and so far Ive only run it on 2S ( I just got the 4s tekin motor yesterday). By the way 2S is BORING. Its very smooth and controllable but it's just boring. One of the tekno guys has this exact setup, and I think he said he was in the 10 minute range when he raced it last weekend. It's definitely a qualifier and main only pack. Ill probably run my turnigy 4000s more. - they put the buggy at about 6.6 lbs

1. it's a critical spot and almost everyone I know have broken it. even though not as critical as the FF hinge pin holder.

2. 5g/3000g = 1/600. I doubt you can feel anything about the "added weight", nor the motor temperature will go up by 1F.

Yeah thats probably one part you would want to change.

The other part I changed that I forgot to mention is I went with an aluminum akerman plate. I figured the 1/8 wheels and steering would take alot more abuse because there is no SC body or bumper to protect them.

qualifier and main lengths of 10 minutes are common here, so if thats the case, definitely makes me wonder

Make sure you didn't use any of the spacers/shims that were included in the first batch. Mine broke in great (also first batch).

But, to answer your question, as long as the diff case isn't deformed from heat or wear, the newer crosspins and gears should fix this, as they don't really even need to be broken in (at least they didn't in any of my builds of them on my SCT410). Generally if switching them out, it is recommended to pick up a new diff case too, to be on the safe side.

For those using the Serpent servo horn, did you have to modify the horn and or use a different ball end? I picked up one for my new steering servo and my stock ball end will not even come close to fitting between the "fork" on the end of the arm.

Does anyone know of a place that sells a screw kit of the EB48 besides that stainless steel RCScrewz kit?

No idea on the screw kit, I just ordered the RC Screws one from Amain yesterday, it came back in stock.

watch where you use those ss screws,they are soft...

Really? I thought they were stronger.