Exactly. Take time breaking it in. I spend more time then probably needed but I have a diff thats 6 months old racing once a week and its still as smooth as day 1.

motor placement. I dont really mess with it, but they say some combination can get the motor closer to the tranny and thus more weight over the cvds and less hanging off the back.

my 4.2 is up for sale along with one of my Viper ESC / Motor combos. PM me if interested. Pics and parts list located here.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post12051535

I switched to 78 spur to move the motor forward some and like it. I'm going to put my 17.5 gearing on the car (34/69) and figure out the motor placement and then see if I can get the same motor placement with my mod motor. I may have to swap to a 75 spur.... not sure yet. Time to bust out the calipers and measure stuff

Myself along with a couple other AE guys here in AUS have been running 75 tooth spur with 8.5T motors. Personly I have found it great, with a 24 pinnion the motor is as far forward that the motor plate will allow. Forward traction isnt affected much or at all, increased midcorner traction and on power steering were the major differences for me. Others may have different result depending on thier setups.

I agree with Daniel. I liked the stiffer spring up front, as it helped keep the rear in line. I was running green/white with the AE springs. I recently gave the Kyosho Pink/Gold springs a try with the tapered 1.6, and the car is good, really good, if you don't have any big jumps. I did end up going up 1/2 weight all the way around to keep it from being under-damped. I'd like to give the tapered 1.4s a try, but it's not worth the money IMO.

edit: Moving the motor forward decreases the pendulum effect, and I really liked it when running milder motors. I don't know if my 7.5 would take too kindly to a small spur, especially with summer just around the corner.

Does anyone have a link to pictures of Cavalieri's B4 with the all red JConcepts body?

Where can I get a set of plain text stickers (in yellow if possible) for somewhat cheap.

Upgrade RC is insane ($30 for a set of stickers that I am not sure if I will even like.)

Im looking for Team Associated, JConcepts, Reedy, LRP, and Futaba stickers.

There is a few options depending on where you live. On the West side of the country you have Upgrade R/C ($30) Stickit1racing ($20 best bang for your buck.) And on the East side you have Darkside which I beilve is $15 a sheet but only 1 logo? Not sure on Darkside but S1 Racing is awesome!

man, you guys really seem to love those K Springs. I find it hard to believe that the spring performance is so far off on the AE. I cant justify $40 for springs. but that is just me I guess.

ain't it the truth!!?? cannot imagine getting $40 worth of difference, but, I'm barely a racer, much less a pro-level racer.

Not so sure I agree with that. You shouldn't set your slipper based on a "power package" that is different from what you are going to run. It is my understanding that the diff is for traction control in the corners and that the slipper is for traction control in a forward motion and in coming off jumps. Is that not correct?

Just don't buy TLR springs and you'll be golden.

Well, it really depends. We used to run on REALLY slick tracks and we used the slipper like traction control. But that is very hard on the slipper and not needed. "most" people set minimal slip (enough to save the drive train) and use their fingers for traction control. In all honestly, I think the trigger finger is the best form of "traction" control. I think is how some people are melting the avid slippers. You can generate a lot of heat using a slipper for more than drive train protection. And the AE pads will glaze quick and the slipper will work even worse. Anyway, I am sure someone will beg to differ, but IMO the slipper is there to save the diff. The same way a servo saver saves the servo, but lol were sure got rid of those.

Be careful who you take advise from on here . You're better off asking the fast guys at your local track for help than strangers here

I agree with the first part.

Anyway i got the slipper worked out. I had my punch set to 80% from my 8.5. So I cranked that up to 100 and moved throttle expo back to 100. It pops the wheels nicely about 1 inch off the ground. I'm leaving it there.