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Old 04-16-2013 | 08:04 AM
  #4276  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
I agree with the first part.

Anyway i got the slipper worked out. I had my punch set to 80% from my 8.5. So I cranked that up to 100 and moved throttle expo back to 100. It pops the wheels nicely about 1 inch off the ground. I'm leaving it there.
perfect
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Old 04-16-2013 | 08:10 AM
  #4277  
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Well obviously if power is diverted from the wheels to the slipper it is helping to prevent the tires from breaking loose. So its not like the slipper does not also have that function. But if you call it traction control, then the new people come in here thinking, wow I dont have enough traction when I punch it so I should just keep loosening it until i can punch it and not slip. I had a kid at our track slipping for like 10-15 feet. I suggested he tighten it up a little so he could have more power available for the jumps and to save his slipper. He told me that he needed it in order to punch the throttle and not spin out. If the slipper starts to generate too much heat, aside from killing the pads, the heat will ruin the nylon locking slipper nut causing even more issues. By adjusting the slipper to save the drive terrain with the 1-2inch rule. You also gain a little bit of "traction control". And that little bit is probably all you need. If you need more "traction", then tires, punch and throttle control are the things you should adjust.
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Old 04-16-2013 | 09:27 AM
  #4278  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Anyway, I am sure someone will beg to differ, but IMO the slipper is there to save the diff. The same way a servo saver saves the servo, but lol were sure got rid of those.
Just to comment on this, with 17.5, I've played around with running with the slipper eliminated and 64p gears, and it's a noticeable difference, however I don't think I'm good enough with my trigger finger to not kill spur gears and transmission internals.

Power gets down almost instantly and there's more top end, which comes sooner. With a flowing track with no big jumps I think there's a benefit, but I don't think it outweighs the cost and liability associated with making such a big change.
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Old 04-16-2013 | 04:25 PM
  #4279  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
So I was out in my man cave working on my b4. And I had a genius idea to move my esc center line for giggles this weekend. So I rewired my motor leads and soldered them up. After reconnecting my motor, I preceded to make sure it was all hooked up well and power up my buggy and gave it a little gas...... Then I immediately heard a thud......and the result is below. So I am no longer racing this weekend. As my motor is in pieces. Anyone ever wondered what an exploding rotor looks like? Bam. And it was never run over 130 deg. Anyone wanna bet my viper esc is dead? Anyone think my slator or sensor can be salvaged? I am not sure i can get all the tiny rotor pieces out of the slator.....yippy.



ok, so the issue was taken care of. I am happy to report that AE customer service went above and beyond for me. I sent my motor in with a note saying "I dont have my receipt, can you take a look and see if it can be fixed for a reasonable about". I was expecting to pay about 40ish for the repair. They had told me if the cost went over 1/2 the value of a new one, then they would send me a new one at half cost. So I was like, ok. But, that was not required because they fixed it for less than half the cost of a new one. In fact they fixed it for zero dollars and zero cents. I got the motor back within 10 days of dropping it in the mail box. They get a 2 thumbs up from me.
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Old 04-16-2013 | 05:27 PM
  #4280  
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so now what would kyosho do for you? lol guess you will find out when u get that rb6 :P
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Old 04-16-2013 | 05:30 PM
  #4281  
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Lol. still keeping my b4. :-P
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Old 04-16-2013 | 06:14 PM
  #4282  
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For those of you that said you liked the Yaiba stuff but didn't like how much it costed here is a chance to get all of their stuff for free check it out:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/tresrey-...-giveaway.html

Good luck to all, if you win I am sure you wont be disappointed with them!
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Old 04-16-2013 | 06:17 PM
  #4283  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Lol. still keeping my b4. :-P
I'm not (still for sale btw )

my RB6 will be picked up soon
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Old 04-16-2013 | 06:43 PM
  #4284  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Well obviously if power is diverted from the wheels to the slipper it is helping to prevent the tires from breaking loose. So its not like the slipper does not also have that function. But if you call it traction control, then the new people come in here thinking, wow I dont have enough traction when I punch it so I should just keep loosening it until i can punch it and not slip. I had a kid at our track slipping for like 10-15 feet. I suggested he tighten it up a little so he could have more power available for the jumps and to save his slipper. He told me that he needed it in order to punch the throttle and not spin out. If the slipper starts to generate too much heat, aside from killing the pads, the heat will ruin the nylon locking slipper nut causing even more issues. By adjusting the slipper to save the drive terrain with the 1-2inch rule. You also gain a little bit of "traction control". And that little bit is probably all you need. If you need more "traction", then tires, punch and throttle control are the things you should adjust.
Yea, I think you can go way too loose with the slipper as in the case you mentioned.

However, I realize I'm pretty much a has been, but the slipper's intial purpose was a form of traction control. When AE first came out with the one with the little red plugs in the gear, the correct setting was to put it on the racing surface and push the car backwards. You would then nail the throttle and, if it was set correclty, you'd hear it slip for about a half a second.

I suppose it's purpose has changed and, to be honest, I don't feel like I need it now like I used to. Tires are much better now than they were back then!
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Old 04-16-2013 | 07:08 PM
  #4285  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, so the issue was taken care of. I am happy to report that AE customer service went above and beyond for me. I sent my motor in with a note saying "I dont have my receipt, can you take a look and see if it can be fixed for a reasonable about". I was expecting to pay about 40ish for the repair. They had told me if the cost went over 1/2 the value of a new one, then they would send me a new one at half cost. So I was like, ok. But, that was not required because they fixed it for less than half the cost of a new one. In fact they fixed it for zero dollars and zero cents. I got the motor back within 10 days of dropping it in the mail box. They get a 2 thumbs up from me.
That rotor is narly. Could probably CA glue it back together no problems.

Was that a Reedy Sonic?
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Old 04-16-2013 | 07:29 PM
  #4286  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
That rotor is narly. Could probably CA glue it back together no problems.

Was that a Reedy Sonic?
yeah, it was a reedy sonic. but its all fixed and good to go now.
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Old 04-16-2013 | 10:41 PM
  #4287  
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Ran the B4.2 tonight and the clay track didn't like clay tires barcodes, suburbs so changed to green 3D's and worked great. Diff ran good in sons car, all MIP set up. I set it up tight how associated says in manual and good to go. Hope to get more than 2 days out of it.
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Old 04-16-2013 | 10:43 PM
  #4288  
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What does everybody do with their shock oils as the tempurtures go from 60 to 80 and 90's?
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Old 04-16-2013 | 11:02 PM
  #4289  
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super clean b4.2 for sale with extras. please text for more info.... 5624584676 $230 obo
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Old 04-17-2013 | 05:06 AM
  #4290  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, so the issue was taken care of. I am happy to report that AE customer service went above and beyond for me. I sent my motor in with a note saying "I dont have my receipt, can you take a look and see if it can be fixed for a reasonable about". I was expecting to pay about 40ish for the repair. They had told me if the cost went over 1/2 the value of a new one, then they would send me a new one at half cost. So I was like, ok. But, that was not required because they fixed it for less than half the cost of a new one. In fact they fixed it for zero dollars and zero cents. I got the motor back within 10 days of dropping it in the mail box. They get a 2 thumbs up from me.

Viper baby, yeah!!!!
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