Don't forget the titanium diff screw as well...

http://www.rc-edit.com/piw.php?partNo=ED050060

I wonder how much weight is dropped in a full Ti screw kit. I would never pay the $100, but I am curious.

running on that indoor track, I would dump weight. Running on that out door track that you linked, I would add 3 pounds of lead to your car

I don't think its much but seems to be for looks alone. Kit screws are the best and least expensive route and would only run the Ti screws if Lunsford sponsored me.

lol yeah. Dropping weight on the outdoor track just made the b4 spastic and hard to drive. So I use my heaviest pack and like it, lol. I am going to run the indoor track this weekend. But unsure what class I will run. Apparently there are some chassis sponsored guys running in every class. Mod, 13.5 and 17.5. Most of those guys hate SC, so I might just run my sc10, lol.

Could not agree more. Hope someone like JC addresses it. Gaining clearance with a stack I washers or reversing the hub towers is just too "basher" looking for me.

a bunch of locals are Narrowing the tower. And not using spacers in the front. IMO dremeling is still the best. Word on the street is that the rear tower are weak and breaking. Not even at the thinned out part. The front towers dont seem to be breaking, but if you dont want to use spacers, you need a b4.1 tower and cut it. I am not sure any of us know for sure what the thicker front tower does to the handling. I am sure if it was bad, you would see cav and maifield not using it or modding it. Has anyone seen recent pics of their front towers?

As far as the rear camber links go. Reversing the hub uppers or using the exotek or yaiba hubs seems like the best bet. Also, using lunsford turnbuckles makes it more of a pain also, because they are thicker. But they released some offset rear camber links to address the issue (I assume).

Mike and I were talking and we both still want to try that U Brace mod where you drill a countersunk hole and move the entire shock tower forward 1/4 inch. I just need a countersink bit

2 x .030 shims behind the rear shock eyelet fix's ..


You try yet ?

You can chamfer the holes with a larger bit. Still not something I would be interested in. Just want it properly addressed.

I just remember going from a stick to a shorty in 17.5 blinky it felt noticeably faster. Thats removing 90 grams so I guess another 20 grams couldnt hurt. When I run 13.5 or more motor the extra weight from a stick pack is not even noticeable.

I would do this, but I would really like a template made. Probably out of steel. Where we could bolt on the template and either mark the holes or use the template as a guide for drilling. Otherwise, I just dont trust my measure twice and drill skills, lol.

you completely missed the point of his statement. He does not want to use spacers...


Anyway, the issues is moving the tower forward would/should change the handling. maybe for the better or worse. The shocks and tower are a decent amount of weight. And moving it forward would put less weight over the rear wheels and move it forward. Reversing the carbo C hub and using the aftermarket hubs would probably impact the handling the least in a neg/pos way. Since moving the camber link along the horizontal plane is suppose to have no effect.

Beats grinding drilling , can use a single 2mm .
what I did on Scott's .
No stacking spacers LoL ...

I don't have my car in front of me, but aren't you effectively making the link longer when you reverse the ballstud on the hub???