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Old 04-03-2013 | 10:37 AM
  #3541  
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Originally Posted by shuless
Just curious about this buggy . Starting with the 600004, then to the 600012 what are the differences. I know that the 600004 has the front mount rear shocks and narrow rear end the 600012 goes to the rear mount with the wider rear end.What would it take to get the 600004 up to the 600012? I currently have a new 600004 and just got the full rear upgrade. What else is different.I've read and read descriptions and aside from just getting the full rear upgrade what else would I need?
You will ned the new diff gears and front shock Tower, which have a hole more for camberlink.
I would just buy the new gears.
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Old 04-03-2013 | 10:42 AM
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Would you happen to have links for these? I'm new to this car and want to make sure I get the right things. Also, I've been reading that you have to go up in diff oil. Is that true ? and what would be the recommended weights. thanks in advance!
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Old 04-03-2013 | 11:20 AM
  #3543  
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Originally Posted by shuless
Would you happen to have links for these? I'm new to this car and want to make sure I get the right things. Also, I've been reading that you have to go up in diff oil. Is that true ? and what would be the recommended weights. thanks in advance!
Diff gear:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ntial-Gear-Set
You will not need the front shock Tower. It is almost the same except for one hole.
Yes you have to go up in oil with the new gears.
Go with 12-12-7 like Serpent 811 BE 2.0.
Then you can adjust from that.
If you havent bought this:
Serpent webbed bladder
Serpent 8 hole conical pistons
serpent post wing alu
I would recommend you buy it!
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Old 04-04-2013 | 06:55 AM
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If anyone purchases the Tekin 1900/2050, do yourself a favor, remove the motor mount and adjust accordingly. The motor does not sit well on the slider motor mount part, so you'll have to eyeball your gear mesh, assemble, re-adjust.
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Old 04-04-2013 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by performula
If anyone purchases the Tekin 1900/2050, do yourself a favor, remove the motor mount and adjust accordingly. The motor does not sit well on the slider motor mount part, so you'll have to eyeball your gear mesh, assemble, re-adjust.
When u put the motor into the slider leave the outside screw on the motor mount insert a tad loose. Adjust your gear mesh, tighten the slider down. Then use a right angle hex to tighten the motor mount insert ... This will allow it to slide freely while u set your mesh...
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Old 04-04-2013 | 12:51 PM
  #3546  
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Need some advice.
When I was running first e-buggy I have find good setup for my driving style. Buggy have forgiven for my mistake and run good on slippery track. Event in the last race the best lap time was the same like our best driver. But After that I put V2 rear + diff gears and erevything changet to bed side. Now I have worse tracktion on rear. I can not push after corners. On break the rear end is lose, I have to work with break more, like ABS. And now I have less turning.
My first setuo was:
Diff: 5 7 3
Oil shock: 30wt front 15wt rear. Springs: front purple rear blue
After V2 + new gear diff installed I did this changes:
Diff : 10 12 6
The same Shock oil and spring.

What you could recomend for better rear tracktion and more turn on bigger spead?

Thanks
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Old 04-04-2013 | 06:51 PM
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I just did the 2.0 rear end too, haven't put it on the track yet. The car was perfect, something tells me I should have spent my $140.00 on something else.
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Old 04-04-2013 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rcq
Need some advice.
When I was running first e-buggy I have find good setup for my driving style. Buggy have forgiven for my mistake and run good on slippery track. Event in the last race the best lap time was the same like our best driver. But After that I put V2 rear + diff gears and erevything changet to bed side. Now I have worse tracktion on rear. I can not push after corners. On break the rear end is lose, I have to work with break more, like ABS. And now I have less turning.
My first setuo was:
Diff: 5 7 3
Oil shock: 30wt front 15wt rear. Springs: front purple rear blue
After V2 + new gear diff installed I did this changes:
Diff : 10 12 6
The same Shock oil and spring.

What you could recomend for better rear tracktion and more turn on bigger spead?

Thanks
I think you are only supposed to increase the diff oil weight by about 2000 when going to the new V2 internal diff gears. Yours are more like doubled the weight. Go more like 7 9 5 and try it. The new rear shock tower will stand the shocks up more than the original tower. You might have to play with the oil and springs. The 2.0 rear setup should plant the car more.
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Old 04-04-2013 | 07:01 PM
  #3549  
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Originally Posted by rcq
Need some advice.
When I was running first e-buggy I have find good setup for my driving style. Buggy have forgiven for my mistake and run good on slippery track. Event in the last race the best lap time was the same like our best driver. But After that I put V2 rear + diff gears and erevything changet to bed side. Now I have worse tracktion on rear. I can not push after corners. On break the rear end is lose, I have to work with break more, like ABS. And now I have less turning.
My first setuo was:
Diff: 5 7 3
Oil shock: 30wt front 15wt rear. Springs: front purple rear blue
After V2 + new gear diff installed I did this changes:
Diff : 10 12 6
The same Shock oil and spring.

What you could recomend for better rear tracktion and more turn on bigger spead?

Thanks
Try 15 15 10. I contacted serpent and the tech told me to run that with the updated gears , he said some of the factory guys run that. I think it feels great! Th had 1.0 and went to 2.0. Loved 1.0. But 2.0 is waaay waaaay better. It think ur diff weights may be too low basing it on what the serpent tech said.

Originally Posted by w_dupree
I just did the 2.0 rear end too, haven't put it on the track yet. The car was perfect, something tells me I should have spent my $140.00 on something else.
U won't be disappointment. It made my buggy worlds better and I was happy with 1.0.
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Old 04-04-2013 | 09:50 PM
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Good to hear, that was the only thing with the 1.0 was on landings the rear end would get pretty loose. Now to just get some track time and get it right.
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Old 04-07-2013 | 06:04 PM
  #3551  
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Running a 10 minute A main today buggy was dialed everything was going great .... Then my batteries dumped at the 7 minute mark. Qualed 4th and was in 3rd and then she just powered down to a crawl and stopped. Happened by the stand so I came down to temp, motor came off 136. Hold it in the air and still spins with when u pull the trigger. I'm running rx8/ t8 1900. 18 p., no current limiter big outdoor loose track. Gens ace 50c 5000. Does this sound right ? Should the batteries dump in 7 minutes. I guess I need to get some 6500 or 7200? Sad part is I have 2 max amps 6500 just never got around to soldering a new harness to use them for the serpent. But other than losing power today I can't say enough great things about this buggy. I'm new to 1/8 scale and I'm able to keep up with some of the sponsored pro guys who have been running for years. This thing with the 2.0 rear end is just easy to drive fast, and stable as hell !
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Old 04-07-2013 | 06:10 PM
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That does not sound right at all! I typically achieved 13 minutes on 5000 mah. How old are the batteries?
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Old 04-07-2013 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by IOP_Racer
That does not sound right at all! I typically achieved 13 minutes on 5000 mah. How old are the batteries?
I didn't think so either , purchased in December.
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Old 04-07-2013 | 08:27 PM
  #3554  
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Go into your Hotwire and make sure you have the LVC (Low Voltage Cut-Off) set correctly - i.e., 3.2V per cell or 4S

Cheers!

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Old 04-08-2013 | 09:12 PM
  #3555  
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The 2.0 kit seems to be about 1 month behind expected ship date..... they need to get this thing going. I have everything sitting here except the KIT!
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