SC10 4x4 Thread
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:50 PM.
I'll eventually start messing more with the toe angle more, but now I want to find a suspension set up that I feel most comfortable with. I also ended up with the front/rear spring kits for the truck, so I have a lot to try. Any suggestions on where to start?
I'm also thinking about picking up that piece to the slipper assembly that helps with breaking and accelerating. I'm spacing on the actual name.. replaces one of the slipper pads on the inside of the spur gear.
What spring/rollbar set up are you using Cain?
I'm also thinking about picking up that piece to the slipper assembly that helps with breaking and accelerating. I'm spacing on the actual name.. replaces one of the slipper pads on the inside of the spur gear.
What spring/rollbar set up are you using Cain?
The nice thing with the rear toe block is you can lock in the rear end as needed, then mess with the springs / shocks without trying to get traction and affecting something else along the way.
I would like to try the mc2 at 3.25 on my track and see what it does. I might have to buy one someday. We will be getting 2 new outdoor tracks here this summer, both less than 25 mins from my house. Can't wait! This might be a good reason to buy
TRCR will like 3 degree best , more toe will make the truck easier to drive but at the expense of corner speed ..
When Bridgewater race outdoors he use 3 degree as well ...
WC, when you tired less and/or more toe, did you do it with toe block and/or hub carries? Also, for those of us that have a little less experience, do you think the confidence we might get to "punch it" coming out of the corner might make up for the bit of corner speed lost? When I go outdoors I really lack confidence on the large back straight. The moment I get too aggressive with throttle the truck spins around like I'm on ice. I am hoping a little more toe might help me.
WC, when you tired less and/or more toe, did you do it with toe block and/or hub carries? Also, for those of us that have a little less experience, do you think the confidence we might get to "punch it" coming out of the corner might make up for the bit of corner speed lost? When I go outdoors I really lack confidence on the large back straight. The moment I get too aggressive with throttle the truck spins around like I'm on ice. I am hoping a little more toe might help me.
Have used it on my other rides before though and plenty of experience with ...
You see a few here that run outdoor swear extra toe is needed ..
Tell you, look at the spring set-up they are using...
They are supper stiff ft spring on the back ...
That explains why they need extra traction IMO..
Outdoors ? Tires are more important then Toe , set-up, ect ...
Set-up does not change much , if were me I would not change
the set-up at all ...
Tires are the only change needed usually..
Outdoors conditions can change a lot .
When you first arrive to a outdoor track ?
Traction is usually very slippery and dusty .
Then they groom , water ect . Then grip improves.
If you what to point & shoot ?
You need to change your style as that will not play very well on any track .
Being smooth on the power is more important ..
WC, when you tired less and/or more toe, did you do it with toe block and/or hub carries? Also, for those of us that have a little less experience, do you think the confidence we might get to "punch it" coming out of the corner might make up for the bit of corner speed lost? When I go outdoors I really lack confidence on the large back straight. The moment I get too aggressive with throttle the truck spins around like I'm on ice. I am hoping a little more toe might help me.
If you find your rear end is stepping out in the corner, you are already losing corner speed, heck, I would say you never had it in those situations where you can't confidently throw the vehicle into the corner in comparison to your competitors. With the toe in block, I was able to do this in spades.
One other thing to mention, I found that when I make this kind of change, I can use it to focus in on rear bite and make other changes in the suspension to improve other areas of track handling versus making suspension changes that have adverse affects to other handling characteristics of the car. Just something to keep in mind that you may find as an additional benefit.
for your conditions, sure, would agree. I actually use even less than 3 degrees of toe on carpet which is more traction than what you have at your track, worked like a charm.

For everyone, its a simple mod to try that can really add some enjoyment to your sc10 4x4 if you find the rear end of the vehicle feels squirelly and you are using the right tires.
Strange that AE hasn't made some blocks like that with more toe like you can get with say your B4, etc. Would be a nice tuning option to have.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,039
From: San Diego, CA
What I ended up with before I sold the vehicle was if the track was loose and bumpy I liked the blues up front, Green or White Fronts on the rear. Hi traction I really liked yellow fronts on fronts, blue fronts on the rear. Can't recall sway bars off hand, but I do have a loose track setup I can email you if you like, just send me a PM with your email address and I can shoot it over to you.
The nice thing with the rear toe block is you can lock in the rear end as needed, then mess with the springs / shocks without trying to get traction and affecting something else along the way.
The nice thing with the rear toe block is you can lock in the rear end as needed, then mess with the springs / shocks without trying to get traction and affecting something else along the way.
Are these spring set ups with the exotek chassis/added weight?
yes. I ran an sc10 4x4 with the following aftermarket parts:
- Exotek Chassis with inline saddle conversion
- RC Shox Ball diff
- RC Shox 2 stage pistons
- M2C Rear toe in block
The rapid action of the 2 stage pistons I really liked on any rumble (indoor carpet) or rutted section of the track. smooth surfaces they performed pretty much like the stock pistons which makes sense as the benefit to them is on rough surfaces.
as a side note, I didn't run any additional weight on my sc10 4x4, and I was running a Pro4 4000Kv Tekin motor, before that a Tekin 5.5 SCX 550 2 Pole motor.
Found the setup sheet, for swaybars outdoors loose setup I was running 1.8mm up front, and 1.5mm in the rear.
- Exotek Chassis with inline saddle conversion
- RC Shox Ball diff
- RC Shox 2 stage pistons
- M2C Rear toe in block
The rapid action of the 2 stage pistons I really liked on any rumble (indoor carpet) or rutted section of the track. smooth surfaces they performed pretty much like the stock pistons which makes sense as the benefit to them is on rough surfaces.
as a side note, I didn't run any additional weight on my sc10 4x4, and I was running a Pro4 4000Kv Tekin motor, before that a Tekin 5.5 SCX 550 2 Pole motor.
Found the setup sheet, for swaybars outdoors loose setup I was running 1.8mm up front, and 1.5mm in the rear.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,039
From: San Diego, CA
yes. I ran an sc10 4x4 with the following aftermarket parts:
- Exotek Chassis with inline saddle conversion
- RC Shox Ball diff
- RC Shox 2 stage pistons
- M2C Rear toe in block
The rapid action of the 2 stage pistons I really liked on any rumble (indoor carpet) or rutted section of the track. smooth surfaces they performed pretty much like the stock pistons which makes sense as the benefit to them is on rough surfaces.
as a side note, I didn't run any additional weight on my sc10 4x4, and I was running a Pro4 4000Kv Tekin motor, before that a Tekin 5.5 SCX 550 2 Pole motor.
Found the setup sheet, for swaybars outdoors loose setup I was running 1.8mm up front, and 1.5mm in the rear.
- Exotek Chassis with inline saddle conversion
- RC Shox Ball diff
- RC Shox 2 stage pistons
- M2C Rear toe in block
The rapid action of the 2 stage pistons I really liked on any rumble (indoor carpet) or rutted section of the track. smooth surfaces they performed pretty much like the stock pistons which makes sense as the benefit to them is on rough surfaces.
as a side note, I didn't run any additional weight on my sc10 4x4, and I was running a Pro4 4000Kv Tekin motor, before that a Tekin 5.5 SCX 550 2 Pole motor.
Found the setup sheet, for swaybars outdoors loose setup I was running 1.8mm up front, and 1.5mm in the rear.
As I've said, I'm running the Tekin 4.5 SCX 550, but heavily considering trying out the 4600 Pro4, especially since the track I've been at is building a big outdoor track very soon in the back of their building.
Thanks again for the tips. When you say ball diff, do you mean in the rear, or the center diff that is for sale?
As I've said, I'm running the Tekin 4.5 SCX 550, but heavily considering trying out the 4600 Pro4, especially since the track I've been at is building a big outdoor track very soon in the back of their building.
As I've said, I'm running the Tekin 4.5 SCX 550, but heavily considering trying out the 4600 Pro4, especially since the track I've been at is building a big outdoor track very soon in the back of their building.
On a big outdoor track, I think the thing I would look at to help make a decision for me personally would be if I needed a lot of instant pop from the motor for some of the more shorter run up of the jumps. That is probably, at least in my opinion, where the real benefits of the Pro4 4 poles that I am seeing. Loads of torque. That said, I have been curious to try out an Reedy Sonic 4.0. They go cheap enough on the boards used, may see about picking one up or, if I can ever get more info on the new Speed Passion Blaze, try one of them.
I don't have much experience on the whole motor weight issue, but others have reported that the vehicle does appear to work better with a lighter motor when they compared a 540 sized one to a 550. Not sure how much track dependent that is, you'll have to check and see.
If you do get a Pro4 style motor, for a big track I would say just get the 4600Kv one or more as you can run into some funky gearing issues with the 4000Kv motor as the stock motor mount needs to be modified for larger pinions. I also had slight temp issues when going up in pinion size so I went down in pinion size, and added VERY LITTLE TIMING (5 degrees on SP ESC) and that got my top end speed where I needed it. Remember though, in general, Pro4 motors DON'T LIKE TIMING.
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