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Old 03-22-2013 | 02:54 AM
  #3196  
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Originally Posted by savageboy69
not necesarily, weight is only gonna transfer as far as the spring will allow
it actually will. the rear spring will take the weight transfer and apply extra force to the rear. the only way it would not transfer any "extra weight is if it is fully compressed

balance is really critical and more weight will transfer to the rear which will apply more pressure to the rear which will drive more grip in to the rear end under power
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Old 03-22-2013 | 05:57 AM
  #3197  
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I'm thinking about trying 1 limiter front and rear when we get outside. Thinking more roll / weight transfer will be good on the low bite 8th scale track.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 07:48 AM
  #3198  
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started my build lastnight on the 4.2. It shows the ballast weight going on the rear during assembly, is it needed? Also, after I built my diff, I saw the video mentioning to compress the spring first, I didn't see this in the manual on page 8, but saw to do it on page 9 for the slipper spring. Thoughts? So far the build is going well, didn't realize it doesn't come with the green slime...they can't include a $3 part? Oh well, going to pick some up tomorrow as I will be doing the shocks last anyways before electronics.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 08:30 AM
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The AE kits comes with more than most. Most dont even give you shock oil or lubes or tools. Yes compress the diff spring. Yes, use the ballast weight. yes, go get green slime.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 08:32 AM
  #3200  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
I'm thinking about trying 1 limiter front and rear when we get outside. Thinking more roll / weight transfer will be good on the low bite 8th scale track.
the issues comes if you lean to much and break the tires free. Raz seemed to think mine was leaning too much on outdoors and I run the standard 3/2.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
the issues comes if you lean to much and break the tires free. Raz seemed to think mine was leaning too much on outdoors and I run the standard 3/2.
interesting. I'll start out the first week with my car the same as I run it everywhere else and just work off that.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 10:46 AM
  #3202  
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I dont normally have to change much when going from indoor to outdoor bob. This is not a TLR 22, lol. Mainly tires, ballstud washers and "maybe" springs. I find the biggest issue for me is tires. I still think i could use a better tire combo. Once they redo our layout, I am going to talk to a local that races my track a lot. He is sponsored by AKA, so I am sure he will tell me aka tires, lol. I think my main issue is the constant changing track conditions. Kinda hard to tune for. I probably just need to drive around the changes or maybe make a few radio adjustments on the practice lap. 3 weeks ago my car was perfect, the next week it sucked. The only thing that changed was the track conditions. Wind can dry the track out before your heat even finishes. But wind makes watch short course racing worth while, lol.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 10:54 AM
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Anyone use wd40 on their tires? I might hit up the indoor track tonight and I think I could use a little more traction.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 11:04 AM
  #3204  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Anyone use wd40 on their tires? I might hit up the indoor track tonight and I think I could use a little more traction.
WD40-based additives work well for clay compound tires.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 11:05 AM
  #3205  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Anyone use wd40 on their tires? I might hit up the indoor track tonight and I think I could use a little more traction.
For some tracks, this works well to soften up the tires a little to gain more traction. Wears out the tires a tad faster as well (no free lunch).

Some tracks don't allow any tire sauce, even wd40.

And for some tracks, wd40 and any other traction additives actually made things worse.

So ultimately, you'll have to find out if it is legal, then do some testing.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 11:34 AM
  #3206  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I dont normally have to change much when going from indoor to outdoor bob. This is not a TLR 22, lol. Mainly tires, ballstud washers and "maybe" springs. I find the biggest issue for me is tires. I still think i could use a better tire combo. Once they redo our layout, I am going to talk to a local that races my track a lot. He is sponsored by AKA, so I am sure he will tell me aka tires, lol. I think my main issue is the constant changing track conditions. Kinda hard to tune for. I probably just need to drive around the changes or maybe make a few radio adjustments on the practice lap. 3 weeks ago my car was perfect, the next week it sucked. The only thing that changed was the track conditions. Wind can dry the track out before your heat even finishes. But wind makes watch short course racing worth while, lol.
Tires are always tough to decide at my home track. It changes day to day. I have figured out that Suburbs with scrubs always work. The challenging thing is getting the right foam or amount of tread. I always keep tires with a lot of tread, open cell, closed cell, worn out tires and a set of slicks. Then I mount them and see what feels best. Sauce is another thing sometimes it works sometimes it doesnt.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 12:14 PM
  #3207  
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Zip Grip 2 (yellow dot) works great for us out here. Tires squeal going around the corners
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Old 03-22-2013 | 12:19 PM
  #3208  
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I prefer Kal-guard motor cleaner spray. Couple mins before i run and bam! traction.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 12:21 PM
  #3209  
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mah, I goto this track like once every 2 months. I will skip the tire sauce, lol. Just clean with simple green and call it a day.

@chev Yeah, it changes heat to heat for us. Soon we will goto night racing, so at least the mains should be consistent. But watering a track has so many variables, lol. Almost warm enough for night racing, time to paint up a bright body. I am think white (meh 2-3 of those) or flo pink. The track has bad lighting, so I need the paint to pop.
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Old 03-22-2013 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by elex300
I prefer Kal-guard motor cleaner spray. Couple mins before i run and bam! traction.
I use motor spray if I need to do a last minute tire swap and the tires I'm switching too aren't already gripped. It's not as good as gripping, but it's better than not gripping 99% of the time.
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