Not exactly what you are asking, but I am running a 5300 pack and can run two 5 min mains +10 practice laps, no problem. It doesn't quite have the same punch at the start of the second main, but it's not bad.

When I charge it after a 5 min main + 3-4 practice laps, it usually only charges 800 mAh or so, as indicated by the charger. I'm planning on going to a 4000 shorty soon.

I run 17.5 Blinky and only pull 2200mah for a 10 min run. I hae started using ultralite Zippy 4000 mah and I have tried using a 3000 but the Voltage sags too much near the end for my liking

Its exactly as it is. For example, drag cars don't put 20g of fuel in the car before each run, their tanks hold just enough fuel for burn out and the 1/4 mile run itself. So in this case, why should I run a 5000 for a 5 or 10 min heat, I can always charge it back to peak voltage for the next run, something I used to do back in the sub c SCR/SCE battery days. Its been awhile since I've had a RC Car, I currently fly electric helicopters so getting back into cars will carry some questions from me. I do have my b4.2 coming today and look forward to building it tonight. No electronics yet, those are still being thought out. Thanks for all the help guys.

well, as you know the more mah you have the higher avg voltage you will have over the 5 minutes. The ONLY reason to not run a 5k pack is the weight. Run time is not something you worry about in stock car racing. You do however want a higher C rating, over 50. Most of use run shorty packs with higher C rating. The Higher C rating relate to lower IR + more punch. Basically less voltage sag when you get on the power thus quicker. So a higher mah and higher C pack will have a higher avg voltage over the 5-10 minute race than a 2000 mah pack over the same time frame.

Here are 3 really good lipos for a great price. If they ever get them in stock. The Chinese new year has back ordered a lot of stuff.
http://www.promatchracing.com/prodde...prod=2S460080C
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=127
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=121

Actually that is more of a safety issue as to why they only put small amount of fuel in a drag car. You don't want 20 gallons of gas in a car if there is a fire. When I use to drag race my 70 Chevelle I made sure the tank was full for extra weight over tires for traction. The reason for running less mah packs or shorties is do to weight. You don't want to heavy of a buggy to race with. The shorties you can move around for weight bias. Lot of times a higher mah battery wil have higher c rating also. Which is more important for stock racing. Lot of guys running mod will run lower c rated batteries to smooth out bottom end.

wow finally did the set screw mod to the rear hubs, my gosh did it tighten the rear up.

3 things that made the whole car ALOT tighter from stock b4.2...

rpm ballcups
ft 2 hole caster blocks
set screws in hubs

If you want to really get the slop out, replace all the hinge pins with 0.112 hinge pins. I made some out of 0.112" O1 tool steel. It's available at McMaster-Carr (P/N 88645K66). I just carefully cut it with a hacksaw to match the length of the stock hinge pins and deburred the ends with a Scotchbrite wheel. The slop is basically gone (70%?). Make sure to use clean soft jaws when you hold the stock. It's easy to burr up the surface of the pin in a vise, if there is junk it the soft jaws.

I haven't replaced the outer hinge pin in the rear suspension because I need to get a reamer to ream the hubs, but will do that soon.

After I replaced the pins, the suspension had some drag / friction. I ran a couple of packs through the car and they were nice and free. It didn't take much to wear them in.

yeah, didnt want to take ALL the slop out, that leads to slow cars :P

the only pin i was thinking about replacing was the inner on the front, seems like alot of play in that one, but that could also be the plastic block itself.

thinking about getting the aluminum gt2 one for it since it comes with set screws for the pins

Thought I would share the new paint for my Mugen MBX6ECO. Going to do the same thing for my next 4.2 body.

Yeah, I really wish AE would update the hubs with pre made grub screws. That removed about 1/2 of the slop. And I blow up less bearings now. The 2 hole casters helped that much huh?



Bob, how much is paint and how much is a wrap?

should have painted it blue and white, so you can fluster the laner.

Looks like its all paint to me.

I think his last body was a wrap, that is why I asked.

that is 100000% paint. Mel doesn't do any wraps and I would rather single color a body before using one

Mel's Shells people.....if you don't know......... you better ask somebody!!!!!!!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/painting...ls-shells.html
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Mels-S...627331?fref=ts

can someone please measure their steering link that goes from the servo arm to the steering link from end to end. im having a problem with my car not steering as far turning right compared to right be a large amount and i think my link may be part of the problem.

Matt