your truck looks dialed, i am layed out the same but i am running 5500 lrp x12 4.5 and a hobbywing sct pro speedo.

Anyone running the Hobbywing 3656sd 4000kv motor in your SC104x4? Curious about gearing that you are running with.

I run a 14t in my sc10 4x4 basher with 1410 3800kv so probably 12t-15t would be good.

Yes. 62/12.

Nice, I've got a lrp sonic 550 4.5 on the way but im really happy with the pro4 4000kv.

Pro4=Weight:*6.75oz (193g) ref:amainhobbies
Reedy 4.5 550=Weight: (243-253g)ref:rc10.com
Ballistic 550=Motor weight:*10.1 oz. (286.3 grams)ref:amainhobbies

you can run emulsion with those caps. you'll want to put some oil in the shock (say 2/3 full) push the piston up through the oil a few times to get the air rising to the top. once the air bubbles are all gone fill the rest of the shock with oil. with the bleeder screw out of the cap, tighten the cap down onto the shock body. then push the shock shaft until it bottoms out. oil should be coming out of the bleeder hole. once all of the air bubbles and oil have stopped coming out of the put in the bleeder screw. once you start the bleeding process dont pull the shock shaft out of the body until the screw is in place. when you cycle the shocks this way there should be no air left in the shocks

hope this is helpful

Cool thanks guys I just wanted to make sure.

Thats the motor I just took out, was running 14/60.

Thanks Craig, I'll try a smaller one. Currently at 14/60 now but coming off the track just shy of 150F. Want to cool it down a touch.

On the track I run the pro4 4000kv, I'm running 13T stock 32pitch spur, motor 140F esc 110F after 3/4 of a reedy 5200 60c saddle pack. I've been considering dropping to 12T, power gets a little soft after 8min or so, 12T might help. I don't run my batteries below 30% anymore so they don't get puffy!

Newb to the 4x4. whats the easiest way to remove/replace servo? any pro tips? advise? Thanks guys

I was unaware the Reedy motor was 50 grams lighter than the Novak. Just on the weight alone, it's a better choice if you want to run a 550.

have to remove the bumper , ft trans , ft chassis brace , ft clip ...

no short cuts really ...
some use the electric driver

Ya, the ballistic's are pretty good motors after the rotor de laminates and you put sleeve retainer on it to fix it. I had 2 de laminate because novak hardley put any glue on it. Permatex sleeve retainer works like a champ for ever, good to over 500F. Same stuff they use to sleeve engine blocks. Easy fix! Im not sure what novak used but it didn't hold up on two of the motors I had and they never temped over 150f. This guy at the track had a brand new one de laminate and I told him I could fix it in less than 10 min and he didn't believe me so I did and that was a year ago and he's still running it.

Here is how I do it. Take off the front slipper cover ,take off all the pully parts and slip off belt, losen all three screws on the diff case then just take off the top back screw that goes thru the diff case and that top plate that servo is connected to, then unscrew the chassis brace, then the 2 screws on each side that holds the top plate to the chassis the ones right before the battery compartment, then I turn the wheels all the way left so you can get the screw on the steering arm the one that comes off the servo horn, then you just pull it off. May have said it confusing but it's the quickest way I found to do it prob 3 minutes with hand tools to take off and do it a lot practice Makes perfect.

+1 This^^^is how I do it too.