use a small piston drill and put a hole about a 1/2 inch from the bottom of the antenna tube. feed the wire through that hole into the tube instead of going into the chassis.

Yeah, I kinda hope that becomes the norm. I have never liked antennas, lol.


Yeah, I did that last night, but I used my 4-40 bit I use before tapping. Then used an exacto to clean it up. I will probably stick with that for now. I had a few issues getting antenna to feed upwards, but i curled the tip and fed it in. worked much better. I was just debating going a step further and slotting it.

So any of you guys do you feel a difference between the finnisher and the bulldog?
Cheers from switzerland.

wireless antenna here too. works well. Hopefully get the range I need for outdoors but, so far so good.

Sat down with my carpet setup on the B4, was pretty happy with how this worked out (using the base B4.1 starting big bore setup):

FRONT
- White 12mm AE Springs
- 1.6 x 2 hole piston
- Losi 35W Oil

REAR
- Grey 12mm AE Springs
- 1.6 x 2 hole piston
- Losi 30W Oil
- Black sway bar

Shorty lipo with 1 spacer up front.

was also a bit surprised how well the V1 Barcodes felt compared to V2s on the carpet, as well as switches in comparison. They provided just enough bite, maybe a hair less than switches but had the rotation that I wanted. V2 Barcodes felt too loose.

Anyway, thought I would post that tid bit to see if there are any other carpet drivers out there with some suggestions. If carpet gets going again I may try the schumacher tires again, but I got this warchest of these types of tires so I figure may just use them up lol.

By the way, anyone got the old school pin type rear wheels or bearing fronts feel free to shoot me a pm as I could be interested in buying them.

V2 Bar Codes are not even the same Gold compound as the V1 Bar Code .


V2 are made from the original & harder Gold ...

I AM NEW TO AE CARS I JUST PICKED UP A B4.2 I WAS WONDERING WHAT SHAVING DOWN THE REAR U BRACE DOES. BOX STOCK SET UP THE CAR PUSHES REAL BAD I RUN ON A HIGH BITE DAMP INDOOR TRACK. I RUN SLICKS AND A STANDARD LENGHT BATTERY.

Hideeho
Do they make them for 2wd front? I have some for my b44 fronts (out of stock for rears) & love them. I borrowed some rears to try them & found they were extremly consistant. Not the ultimate in lateral grip, but very easy to drive at the limit. Forward bite was very nice also.

Page 1 of this thread....post #2

if you have a steady hand you can make them for 2wd. just need a sharp pair of scissors and some glue.

Racing on a large outdoor track in GA I could not tell a difference running them back to back? I felt a bigger difference changing wings than bodys?

any body have avg weight for b4 with full size battery??
thanks

http://rcinsider.com/?p=44527

There ya go

I actually can't wait to try Ions. I haven't gotten the rears yet

THANKS FOR THE QUICK REPLY. BUT WHAT DOES THAT DO TO THE CAR.

To me i use it on higher bite tracks in conjunction with the C hub, it helps to free the rear end up. I use the A hub and a normal brace on outdoor, bumpy tracks. Each person you ask willl have a somewhat different version of what they feel it does...basically you just need to try it out for yourself. Unless you race on a really bumpy, outdoor track...then i wouldnt recommend it.

I feel the C hub squares up better and it frees up the rear. But i do not like the shaved brace on outdoor. It is too loose for me. When I run higher bite indoor, I run the shaved brace with the c hubs. But like matt, said, you have to play with it. I am the only one i know that runs the c hub outdoors with the non shaved brace, but i like it. So to each their own.