Team Associated B4.2 Thread
#1336
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/yaiba-rac...num-rear-hubs/
#1337
They do not allow for a C hub ball stud location, only A or B. The Yaiba aluminum hubs allow for all three.
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/yaiba-rac...num-rear-hubs/
http://www.tresrey-usa.com/yaiba-rac...num-rear-hubs/
#1338
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 156
From: Harrisburg, PA
Yes the exotek ones are designed for the A hub location. But isnt the B hud position just the holes in between the A hub? so same height. im wondering if you dont use the included washer and a short neck ball stud how close that would be to a "C" location? Otherwise some dremeling could allow it if you want to run that height but i dont plan on running C hubs anytime soon.
Last edited by Millerracing; 02-06-2013 at 05:26 PM. Reason: Spelling
#1339
setting up my kids b4.2 shocks, kit starts with:
3.00lbs front 30wt black springs
2.10lbs rear 30wt white springs
In the b4.1 we run all the .2 upgrades with the BB shocks built to:
3.15lbs front 30wt green springs
1.90lbs rear 27.5wt black springs
We are a little stiffer in front and softer in the rear to get more low speed steering which is working pretty good right now but still could use more steering not less. Any thougths?
track is medium-high bite, small clay indoor track. Tire of choice for most guys is gold bar codes or mc suburbs.
3.00lbs front 30wt black springs
2.10lbs rear 30wt white springs
In the b4.1 we run all the .2 upgrades with the BB shocks built to:
3.15lbs front 30wt green springs
1.90lbs rear 27.5wt black springs
We are a little stiffer in front and softer in the rear to get more low speed steering which is working pretty good right now but still could use more steering not less. Any thougths?
track is medium-high bite, small clay indoor track. Tire of choice for most guys is gold bar codes or mc suburbs.
#1342
What's all the hype with center mounted ESC locations all of a sudden? Some of these installs look nice and professional but is it actually better? I would have guessed putting weight higher on the chassis would cause unwanted roll.
#1343
im not sure myself. i run a tekin rs, that this dont weigh anything to start with
#1344
one of the biggest things for me is the cleaner wiring and less wire. im thinking i can run the transponder under the battery and mount it where the esc used to be
#1345
I guess if Cav does something then everyone wants too try it. I tried this over a yr ago and went back to normal setup
#1346
#1349
2wd Buggy Control Tires
Front Tire = JConcepts Gold 2wd Front Barcodes (#3017-05)
Front Foam = JConcepts Profiled 1/10th 2wd Front Insert - Firm (#3204-1)
Rear Tire = Pro-Line MC Rear Suburbs 1.0 (#8204-17)
Rear Foam = Pro-Line 1:10 Closed Cell Rear Inserts (#6185-01)
These are the go-to tire setup for WCRC. I would look up Cavalieri's ROAR Nats setup on rc10.com, that should provide a good starting point.
Front Tire = JConcepts Gold 2wd Front Barcodes (#3017-05)
Front Foam = JConcepts Profiled 1/10th 2wd Front Insert - Firm (#3204-1)
Rear Tire = Pro-Line MC Rear Suburbs 1.0 (#8204-17)
Rear Foam = Pro-Line 1:10 Closed Cell Rear Inserts (#6185-01)
These are the go-to tire setup for WCRC. I would look up Cavalieri's ROAR Nats setup on rc10.com, that should provide a good starting point.
#1350
C hub lowers roll center. It's right in the description of the part. This produces MORE roll, not less.
A lower roll center produces more roll. A higher roll center produces less roll. It can help with infield grip because of more initial chassis roll at lower speeds.
My experience was that A hubs work better when using green springs on medium to low traction tracks because the use of the softer green spring already produces plenty of chassis roll. If you find yourself running white springs in the rear, such as a super sticky clay track, the C hubs are a better option than running a stack of washers that increase your chance of snapping the inside ball stud off.
I have found the C hubs to be completely worthless with green rear springs. If you note, most of the team setups that run C hubs run white springs. Food for though.
http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...um_Hub_Tower_C
New option C tower in 2.5mm carbon fiber.
Lowers outer link positions for lower roll center.
New option C tower in 2.5mm carbon fiber.
Lowers outer link positions for lower roll center.
My experience was that A hubs work better when using green springs on medium to low traction tracks because the use of the softer green spring already produces plenty of chassis roll. If you find yourself running white springs in the rear, such as a super sticky clay track, the C hubs are a better option than running a stack of washers that increase your chance of snapping the inside ball stud off.
I have found the C hubs to be completely worthless with green rear springs. If you note, most of the team setups that run C hubs run white springs. Food for though.



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