Wild Cherry + Rc10 = PWNSAUSE

Would be interesting if you report back regarding if your setup needed to change to accommodate the weight relocation. I'm guessing cav probably corner balanced his to get the most of it. Wcrc is pretty high traction, maybe he felt it gave him more on throttle steering?

I will stick to standard placement for now.

I disagree entirely with hubs that use this design. Mounting the ball stud up and down instead of through a stand off invites the ball stud to snap off the same way they can at the brace. The reason being that the forces involved are transmitted through the 4/40 ball stud screw (as a sheering force) at a much lower location when mounted in this orientation. This increases the force exposed to the screw at its connection point due to a shortened distance from the fulcrum (the lower hub hinge pin) while the lever arm remains the same (distance from ball stud connection to the lower hub hinge pin). With the ball stud mounted the other direction, the forces are transmitted through stout thick plastic that has some flex (see: give) or carbon that is tough as nails at the point where the screw would be the only thing handling it if mounted vertically.

AE has the right idea on hubs. Mount horizontally with plastic stand off that can be replaced cheap or with tough carbon fiber that isn't threaded so any broken ball studs can be replaced. Hubs like these are just asking to snap a ball stud off inside the hub where it cannot be extracted.

Wow, that actually sounds really smart of AE, I never thought of it that way!

the hubs were a very smart idea. If only quality was higher.

I remember running a gas truck that had verticle ball studs on the hub (think it was a Drake 2) and everything was solid on that truck except the ball studs. Seemed like every few months it was time to replace the hubs as the snapped ball stud required cutting into the aluminum hub to remove the screw. I like AE's design much more.

maybe the need to use a ball stud that also has a hex bit opening on the other side. That way, if it breaks off, you could potentially get to the other side and thread it out easily?

thinking about it, if I used these kind of hubs, I probably would slot the end of each ballstud so I could at least try it with a flat head screwdriver for now.

I run long ti studs in my exotech hub in case I break one. So I can take the cvd out and grab the stud on the bottom with something and unscrew it out the bottom.

Easy fix

Just use studs with longer threads so you can grip on the opposite end to back off a broken stud ....

Never had to replace a hub due to broken studs ...

Some how I stripped the lower hole in my Reedy Sonic motor.

Hit a bump hard and the back of the chassis under the motor slapped real hard.

Any way to fix this without getting a new motor, which I REALLY do NOT want to do!

Thanks,
-Venom

Not sure , but maybe remove the can & rotate before you assemble so you can use the other motor screw holes ....

Was it you that said Reedy is making a new motor?

Where is a good place to start on 17.5 gearing?

On the 13.5 reedy I am running full bell timing at 35* and 30pinion with 72 spur and runs good.

Only
something heard about , know nothing more or even when ....

i've seen pics of a new reedy mach2 motor, thats all i've seen! looks to be an updated version, that i want!